Hello!
Im currently playing GP2 with keyboard but Im ready for the change to
some kind of analogic control.
The problem is: Wich is better: Thrustmaster T2 or GP1?
In other words: I need a unbiased opinion about pros and cons of these
devices.
I feel that I will be able to do better with throtle and brakes in the
back of the wheel (GP1). Can somebody with a GP1 give me his feelings on
such item?
Thank you in advance.
By Canci (Nostromo Racing Team)
Well, I can't let you have an *unbiased* opinion, cos a) I've never
tried the T2; and b) I just spent a packet on a GP1!!!
What I can say is that I heartily recommend the GP1.
Installation is straightforward (although you need to apply some
serious elbow grease to plug in the suction cups!)
The wheel itself is just right for me. It's thicker than the wheels
on some of the real cars I've driven, and that's important - I like to
be able to get a good hold of a wheel, not to feel that I'm holding a
curved straw:)
The hand operated "pedals" are nice - well positioned and
ergonomically pretty sound. Over a *long* session you might find your
fingers seize up, but I hear similar complaints about fatigue from
people using pedals.
There are 2 very nicely positioned buttons in the centre of the wheel.
I use them for gear up/down, and they're just right for thumb control
(try before you buy - if you've got long fingers/thumbs or shovel
hands, the size may not be right; I'd say I've got "average" size
hands!) This way I can use the analog "pedals" for gas/brake - vital
if you need to be able to brake gently (GP2) or accelerate a little,
rather than flat out.
I've had remarkably few calibration problems. The wheel calibrates on
the X axis of joystick 1, the pedals (ok, I know they're not "pedals"
- but it's easier to write!) on the X axis of J2. A converter is
supplied, and plugs in between port and wheel, so that the pedals can
work on the J1 Y axis. So far, I've used the converter with
everything, without much difficulty.
The wheel comes with installation instructions for GP2, ICR, Screamer
and a few others. Oddly GP2 didn't work when I followed the manual,
but I quickly found 2 other ways of calibrating it perfectly well. A
liitle experimentation is needed.
The only problems I've had so far are with a) Screamer - I can't get
the pedals to work - I have to use the buttons for accelerate/brake;
b) Screamer 2 - I had to run setup twice - but it worked fine 2nd time
round! and c) I've had a few calibration drift problems with Win 95.
On initial setup, no problem, but returning after a cold boot the
calibrate utility was off-centre. I've posted for help about this,
and hopefully the problem will be ironed out. I suspect it might be
cured if I plug my standard 'stick back in and recalibrate first.
Also, the 2 "auxillary" buttons on the "dash" don't seem to be
recognised - not even by TM's own calibration utility! Not that I
think I'd use them anyway.
The wheel uses 2 clamps & 2 suction cups to affix to your desk - the
cups aren't great for me cos I have a wooden desk. Not difficult to
fix, however.
It seems a fairly sturdy contraption - but time will tell, no doubt.
Overall, the GP1 was a great investment. I couldn't play a racing
game with anything other than a wheel now. The level of control
possible with the wheel is amazing (though I'm sure that applies to
other wheels too). It "feels" just right.
And it was reasonably priced. What more do you want?
I'd get one. Now. Or sooner:) You'll wonder how you ever used keys.
Hope that helps.
Paul.
-caveat reador- **why rely on free advice**
**when you can pay for it**
...
|> Also, the 2 "auxillary" buttons on the "dash" don't seem to be
|> recognised - not even by TM's own calibration utility! Not that I
|> think I'd use them anyway.
I am curious then. I use one of these buttons (on my T2) for reverse in
ICR2 (it's kind of weird to hold a button down to go backwards, but with
my wheel in place, I don't have access to my keyboard). How do you go
in reverse without using the buttons? Do you use the keyboard or is
there another way? NFS and I think GP2 lets you shift "down" into R,
but not ICR2.
Other potential uses for the buttons (if only the games would support
them) would be changing your point of view (in-car/chase), pausing
the game, the horn and the hand brake in NFS, etc.
--
IBM Microelectronics ICQ UIN: 216830
Burlington, VT Phone: (802) 769-7104 (tie 446)
Patrick
--
/***************************************************************\
Doing: RCFS (Radio Control Flight Simulator)
Buy the GP1! Get the CH pedals only if you want realism, but you
won't beat your times running the GP1 only. The paddles on the wheel
are wonderfully exact, plus you can use yer feet to kick the desk when
you accidently biff the guy in front!
I'm trying to use the CH pedals because they should give an advantage
in that they operate on separate joystick axises, where T2 and GP1 gas
and brake controls are shared accross the same axis. It's a long
learning curve for the left foot, however, and your fingertips are a
lot faster then your big toe!
I've ended up with a per4mer turbo wheel mainly because of the much
lesser expence.
I've looked at the GP1 in the store. Very well made, definitly
Trushmaster quality. But, I can't see myself driving and controling
everything with my hands: steering, up and down shifting, acceleration
and braking.
All and all, my preference goes to the per4mer ( around here, T2 sells
for 199 $, GP1: 139 $, per4mer: 79 $ ) because of the price, because of
the up and down shifting buttons right on the wheel and because of the
steering reduced turning end to end compared to the T2. If I can fix a
way to spring center the wheel instead of the prehistoric method that
the designers of the per4mer used, I'll be in business.
Hope it helps.
-- =
Claude Marcil,
Boisbriand,
Quebec, Canada,
Autour du globe sur le NET.
Around the globe on the NET.
Peut tre que le Mad Catz serais un bon choix. J'ai ce volant depuis 3
mois maintenant et je suis trs fier. Pas cher en plus! (+/- 90$ CAN).
Dans le style du Per4mer mais avec beaucoup de boutons. 3 choix de
"shiftage" et plusieurs autres touches. Le volant repond trs bien pour
son prix, presque meilleur que le T2 pour 100$ de moins. Cela fais
dr?le de pouvoir parler Fran?ais ici sur r.a.s. avec quelqu'un en plus
qui a choisi un bon fournisseur d'accs. Cam n'a presqu'aucun problme
compar au autres (ex: vidotron, Odysse, Microtec)
Merci
[===] Go R. Barrichello, Jacques Villeneuve,
| ! | And all you that thinks that Jacques Villeneuve is
|!| from Canada, your right!! He's from St-Jean sur le
|o| Richelieu, 30 minutes from Montreal, Quebec, Canada.
[--I--]
v
Fran?ois Mnard "Wasupe LeGrand"
Nicolas Mnard "Nien Numb"
Nien Numb in the National Star Wars League(X-Wing vs Tie-Fighter league)
http://www.dakotacom.net/~strange/
http://www.starwars.com/
Star Wars Trilogy Special Edition,N2,Gp2,Icr2.How can my life be better?
May the force be with you, always!!
Que la force soit avec toi, jamais!(for you French people)
Excuse me for my poor English(I'm French speaking)
Je suis plus amateur de F1 que de stock car, donc ma preference va a
GP2. Je le trouve tres pres de la realite.
Je n'ai conduit que sur quelques pistes seulement jusqu'a maintenant,
soit Montreal, Eida et un peu Monaco et Allemagne.
Ca demande beaucoup de pratique, une connaissance profonde des circuits
et beaucoup de concentration, mais c'est passionnant.
Au plaisir de le lire,
-- =
Claude Marcil,
Boisbriand,
Quebec, Canada,
Autour du globe sur le NET.
Around the globe on the NET.
I've just realized the versions of GP1 and T2 with the additional
adapter plug DO have peddals (paddles) on joy-b x and y. If you use
the adapter, it gangs the two on the Y axis of the a joystick... if
you don't use the adapter, you can get both axises if the game can
read the b joystick. (Caveat with this is that if you don't use the
adapter, leaving the y axis of the a port open, windows 95 has a fit!
So you must be in dos)
I've also read (don't know if it is fact) that there are newer
versions of T2/GP1 shipping without the adapter, which means if you
get one of these, you are stuck with brake/accel. on the y of a
together!
>>Buy the GP1! Get the CH pedals only if you want realism, but you
>>won't beat your times running the GP1 only. The paddles on the wheel
>>are wonderfully exact, plus you can use yer feet to kick the desk when
>>you accidently biff the guy in front!
>>I'm trying to use the CH pedals because they should give an advantage
>>in that they operate on separate joystick axises, where T2 and GP1 gas
>>and brake controls are shared accross the same axis. It's a long
>>learning curve for the left foot, however, and your fingertips are a
>>lot faster then your big toe!
> It should be possible to rewire the GP1 so that the gas and brake pots are on
>seperate joystick axis, allowing you to use them independently of each other
>for more realism.
By Canci.
> By Canci.
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> Buy the GP1! Get the CH pedals only if you want realism, but you
> won't beat your times running the GP1 only. The paddles on the wheel
> are wonderfully exact, plus you can use yer feet to kick the desk when
> you accidently biff the guy in front!
I did it!
Last friday I purchased a brand new GP1 and I am now in the process of forgetting all my keyboard habits and
learning to cope with this beast.
I find it a bit small for mi hands size. Specially pushing the paddles hard makes me feel uncomfortable so Im
looking for some kind of home-made fix like some pieces of wood or *** to engross the paddles.
Anyway, its great fun, but Im 3 or so seconds slower than with keyboard.
Some advice on the setup?
Thank you in advance.
By Canci
Montral est videmment ma piste prfre car je connais tous les petits
trucs et astuces de cette piste. Je suis capable de rouler en 1:24:00
et mme des fois en 1:23:XX. J'ai une sensation de me sentir chez moi
avec cette piste :)
If you are using your soundcard game port, get a speed adjustable game
card; I use CH's Gamecard 3 Automatic. I could not drive with no
steering help using my soundcard game port.
