rec.autos.simulators

Hi!

When I turn steering help on in GP2, I have a smooth ride with my T2 and
experience no significant problems. However, when I turn steering help off
(which would be THE way to play GP2 ;), I get sudden bursts of jerkiness,
especially before turning into corners, which obviously messes up my ideal
lines and makes the game impossible to drive.

I know it's not a problem with the T2, since I had the exact same thing
happen with my joystick with steering help turned off. When I don't even
touch the T2/joystick, the car suddenly steers to the left (or right), like
if I had suddenly pulled the steering. For me it's most noticable on the
straights in Hockenheim, where I cruise down the staright with 330 km/h,
then suddenly my car decides to get on the edge of the track, and then I,
of course, spin out.

This maybe a joy port problem. If I turn steering help on, which ignores my
sudden wheel movements for the sake of trying to keep me close to the ideal
line, this does not happen for the exact reason. But I don't like steering
help on, either; it limits my freedom of movement - and it's not realistic.

BTW, the only joy port I have is on my GUS PnP soundcard. Anybody experienced
something similar, or maybe even got rid of this problem? Please email me

Thanks,
_____________________________________________________________________________
LaLa (Imre Olajos, Jr.)      _/ean /\/\ichel _/arre  and  -=\/=- angelis  fan
WWW : http://www.racesimcentral.net/~lala                       |    |

~~ []/\() ~~~~~~~~~~~ "Music should be free." /Vangelis/ ~~~~~~~~  /~~\ /~~\

: When I turn steering help on in GP2, I have a smooth ride with my T2 and
: experience no significant problems. However, when I turn steering help off
: (which would be THE way to play GP2 ;), I get sudden bursts of jerkiness,
: especially before turning into corners, which obviously messes up my ideal
: lines and makes the game impossible to drive.

[snip]

Have you played with the "sensitivty" levels in the Advanced Control
Setup?  Play with these and I think you can solve your problems.  I
would recommend something, but I am still playing with them myself.

--
**************************** Michael E. Carver *************************
     Upside out, or inside down...False alarm the only game in town.

=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=<[ /./.  [-  < ]>=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=

Another thing you might want to check is to "clean" the pot on the
steering wheel.  All of a sudden when turning into corners on GP2 there
was a "hitch" in about the middle of the turn.  Got some "tuner/switch"
cleaner/lubricant from Radio Shack, opened up the "hood" of my T1,
sprayed the pot down, presto-change-o back to SMOOTH turning.

--
**************************** Michael E. Carver *************************
     Upside out, or inside down...False alarm the only game in town.

=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=<[ /./.  [-  < ]>=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=

I had this problem over the weekend.  I would be going down the
straight and the car would randomly jerk left and right.  I drive with
no help on and all sensitivity settings at 0%.  It was getting
annoying.  It had not been happening prior to this weekend.  I ran a
program from thrustmaster called "TMS" which is used to calibrate
their joystick products.  and when I steered the wheel I noticed a lot
of jerkiness when the wheel was around the centered position.  I
figured it had to be a problem with the potentiometer.  I had a spare
one from the T1 Tune up kit they sent me for free last year, and I
replaced it.  The problem dissapeared. Now the car goes where I want
it to again.

I hope this helps.

Jim Boka

Hallo "Imre.

Op 01 Aug 1996 schreef jij om 18:59 uur aan All:

 "OJ"> steering help off (which would be THE way to play GP2 ;), I get
 "OJ"> sudden bursts of jerkiness, especially before turning into
 "OJ"> corners, which obviously messes up my ideal lines and makes the
 "OJ"> game impossible to drive.

 "OJ"> BTW, the only joy port I have is on my GUS PnP soundcard. Anybody
 "OJ"> experienced something similar, or maybe even got rid of this

I have heard a lot of people with this problem. Every time I ask what soundcard
they have, they say: GUS.
Disable sound card and the game will run without any problems.
Sorry, but buy another soundcard.
I now work with a cheap SB-pro and a GUS. The racegames work with the SB, and
for the rest I use the GUS.

Greetings, Felix!

FidoNet : Felix Holm 2:2802/304.4

Hi,
i have a GUS and this pb too.
In fact when programmer try to use GUS as a digital sound card
( real-time sound like engine ) they must load in the memory sound
card a little piece of the sound of the card and tell to the card
how it must be played ( high or low ) and in a sb card , it's the
procesor which do that and give the processed sound to the card.

So the GUS must change the sound very often ( maybe 30times/sec ) and
that's make problem with the value of the joy ( in fact there's two
value in the same time so the program can't know which value take ).

If the programmers has choose another way to program there will no
pb ( ex : DMA ).

Maybe microprose doesn't like to spend time with cards that there are
not very used . ( maybe people who can buy p200+ can buy 2 sound-cards)

Bye!

ps : SORRY FOR MY VERY BAD ENGLISH.
--
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--

             We're in a road movie to Berlin
           Can't drive out the way we drove in

: I found that "lowest sensitivity" is the best bet if your stick/wheel
: is somewhat older. After long use, the potentiometers in those devices
: tend to wear off a bit, so the reading at times becomes unpredictable.
: A countermeasure might be to apply some drops of WD40 (or Caramba, for
: European readers) to the potentiometers - but if this really screws up
: your wheel, don't sue me! ;) If you know how to use a soldering iron,
: you can also replace the potentiometer at the wheel base. You might
: want to write to Thrustmaster, they seem to be pretty nice when it
: comes to replacing worn parts (springs etc.) for free.

Actually it would be better to locate a electronics place that sells
"tuner/switch" cleaner.  It is designed to clean the contacts and
lubricate them also.  Here in the USA, I know that Radio Shack has such
stuff and works wonders for me and my T1.  (It's about the only thing I
buy at Radio Shack.)

--
**************************** Michael E. Carver *************************
     Upside out, or inside down...False alarm the only game in town.

=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=<[ /./.  [-  < ]>=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=

Just play around with the values, i'm sure you'll find the one that you like.

regards,
hisham

Great post, thanks. I tried this on my little T2 problem, and it
worked. $9 buck for the can, tho... but well worth it in retrospect.

BTW, I was surprised at the potentiometer in there- not really a
top-notch one, I think. I'd say CH products put better pots in their
equipment.

Gp2 was a lot more challenging before this $9 dollar purchase! I was
getting ready to think I'd lost my minimal ability!