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Ian P
<email invalid due to spam>
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eFalcon keyboard chart in PDF format
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You should feel centering forces (and maybe even some pull to the left) in
N4 regardless of having the centering spring turned on or not though.
Jan.
=----
"Pay attention when I'm talking to you boy!" -Foghorn Leghorn.
Even a car at high speed feels nothing like the return to centre on any PC
wheel I've ever tried.
Disclaimer: This experiment is void if you drive an old Citroen CX :)
--
Ian P
<email invalid due to spam>
> >I don't know of anyway to make it stay on, but it's supposed to turn it
off
> >anyway.
> Why? I can't drive down the straights like this. I noticed GPL does
> the same thing. I want rack and pinion steering dammit! :-)
> --
> eFalcon keyboard chart in PDF format
> http://storm.prohosting.com/~nos146/ef4_keys.zip
Andre
MB
> >I don't know of anyway to make it stay on, but it's supposed to turn it
off
> >anyway.
> Why? I can't drive down the straights like this. I noticed GPL does
> the same thing. I want rack and pinion steering dammit! :-)
> --
> eFalcon keyboard chart in PDF format
> http://storm.prohosting.com/~nos146/ef4_keys.zip
I feel the forces, just no centreing which makes my wheel too loose on
the straights.
--
eFalcon keyboard chart in PDF format
http://storm.prohosting.com/~nos146/ef4_keys.zip
>Even a car at high speed feels nothing like the return to centre on any PC
>wheel I've ever tried.
>Disclaimer: This experiment is void if you drive an old Citroen CX :)
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eFalcon keyboard chart in PDF format
http://storm.prohosting.com/~nos146/ef4_keys.zip
Both those sims turn it off anyway, so it appears. Which should have
been made optional, IMO.
--
eFalcon keyboard chart in PDF format
http://storm.prohosting.com/~nos146/ef4_keys.zip
you really shouldn't need the centering spring. The centering comes from
the tires themselves when the car is at speed, as the suspension
geometry/aligning torque take care of that.
The forces may not be the same magnitude as in the real car, and that
comes from a few factors. As others have suggested, the steering ratio
might be different from your road car, and if you decrease that, more
centering will occur.
Also, on most high speed tracks, the default setup has caster set to
close to 0, which reduces the centering. Set caster to maximum and
notice the difference. But don't come chasing me after a 100+ lap race
when your arms will want to fall off :).
You might also notice that in a real car you don't have all that much
centering force anyway (it tends to build up only when you corner hard,
although power steering may add some artificially - I've seen that one
happen as well!), however, in a real car, you feel the lateral
accelerations and perhaps it's this sensation that you are missing.
-Gregor
I know what you mean about how mushy it feels on the straights with
centering turned off, though. I have read plenty of times that it's supposed
to be more realistic with it off, but I like it on myself.
FYI: I have centering set to full and I'm using a profile to split the axes
for accelerator and brake. Mine is the original FF wheel and it's hooked to
the gameport on my SB Live!. Good luck!
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elh4jj at hotmail <------------------
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>you really shouldn't need the centering spring. The centering comes from
>the tires themselves when the car is at speed, as the suspension
>geometry/aligning torque take care of that.
Yea, decreasing the ratio helped a lot. But, I was able to control the
car better on the straights with my previous non-ff wheel.
OK, I'll try that too, thx.
Yes, that is it. My car has power steering and on the highway at high
speed I don't really like it for the same reason as my complaints
above. Rack and Pinion steering is much better for feeling the road.
Which is what all race cars use, correct?
--
eFalcon keyboard chart in PDF format
http://storm.prohosting.com/~nos146/ef4_keys.zip
