rec.autos.simulators

by **Steve** » Wed, 26 May 1999 04:00:00

I've pretty much decided to get the MS FF wheel. I have one
question though. How difficult is it to replace the springs in the
pedals? They seem soft, especially the brake pedal. Are they easy to
get to? Was it tricky?

by **Randy Wilso** » Wed, 26 May 1999 04:00:00

Had mine for 6 _hard_ months so far & the pedal springs haven't broken
yet (or felt like they have gotten any softer, either). Had the base
open once to re-lube the pivot points & the spings don't look like they
would be hard to change - if you could get any others to fit.

Great wheel - unless you play N2 :(

Randy

> I've pretty much decided to get the MS FF wheel. I have one
> question though. How difficult is it to replace the springs in the
> pedals? They seem soft, especially the brake pedal. Are they easy to
> get to? Was it tricky?

by **G. Patric** » Wed, 26 May 1999 04:00:00

Had mine for 6 months or so and i'm not ...err.. gentle by any means,
but they have shown no signs of softening or failure. One GREAT
addition (for GPL anyway) is the famous yellow-dot squash ball to the
brake pedal. THAT is a must do!

>: I've pretty much decided to get the MS FF wheel. I have one
>:question though. How difficult is it to replace the springs in the
>:pedals? They seem soft, especially the brake pedal. Are they easy to
>:get to? Was it tricky?
>:
>: Steve S
>:+-----------------------------------+-------------------------------------+

>:| And quickly he's subdued | Split_S3 on IRC |
>:| Thru constant pained disgrace | Steve-S on TEN |
>:| The young boy learns their rules | Unforgiven (-unfg-) on Warbirds |
>:| Metallica | Dweebs of Death |
>:+-----------------------------------+-------------------------------------+
>:| Dale Earnhardt | Dale Earnhardt Jr |
>:+-------------------------------------------------------------------------+

G. Patricks

by **Steve** » Wed, 26 May 1999 04:00:00

Thanks for the reply. I do play N2 but with N2000 on the way and
the 1.1 patch for GPL coming out, wil TAR have FF, I've decided to
make the plunge. I've heard of at least one person who changed out
the brake spring pedal, I think it was on the MS but not sure, so was
hoping they would see the question and respond. Still trying to
figure out how I'm going to work the swap between homebuilt wheel
(N2), Rudder pedals, and FF wheel & pedals. This is definately going
to be fun. :-)

Steve-S

On Tue, 25 May 1999 10:10:26 -0400, Randy Wilson

>Had mine for 6 _hard_ months so far & the pedal springs haven't broken
>yet (or felt like they have gotten any softer, either). Had the base
>open once to re-lube the pivot points & the spings don't look like they
>would be hard to change - if you could get any others to fit.

>Great wheel - unless you play N2 :(

>Randy

>> I've pretty much decided to get the MS FF wheel. I have one
>> question though. How difficult is it to replace the springs in the
>> pedals? They seem soft, especially the brake pedal. Are they easy to
>> get to? Was it tricky?

by **Vince Fishe** » Wed, 26 May 1999 04:00:00

It is possible to use other pedals with the MSFF wheel using the single
gameport on your soundcard.I am using the MSff wheel with the pedals off
of my digital edge f1sim 9on my SBlive card)and in gpl u can use all 4
pedals at the same time if u really wanted too(1 as a clutch if u
want)although I dont bother. Only concession is that to have split axis
I had to disable FF which hasn't been a problem but might be when 1.1
comes out.
--
Vince Fisher

by **Steve** » Wed, 26 May 1999 04:00:00

WHAT? No FF with Split Axis Pedals??? Are the MS pedals split axis
btw? I'd forgotten to check on that. Why would FF need to be turned
off? Does it use Y2 for it's signals???? If so how is that affected
by Y2K??? :-)

Steve S

On Tue, 25 May 1999 19:36:43 +0100, Vince Fisher

>> Thanks for the reply. I do play N2 but with N2000 on the way and
>>the 1.1 patch for GPL coming out, wil TAR have FF, I've decided to
>>make the plunge. I've heard of at least one person who changed out
>>the brake spring pedal, I think it was on the MS but not sure, so was
>>hoping they would see the question and respond. Still trying to
>>figure out how I'm going to work the swap between homebuilt wheel
>>(N2), Rudder pedals, and FF wheel & pedals. This is definately going
>>to be fun. :-)

>> Steve-S
>It is possible to use other pedals with the MSFF wheel using the single
>gameport on your soundcard.I am using the MSff wheel with the pedals off
>of my digital edge f1sim 9on my SBlive card)and in gpl u can use all 4
>pedals at the same time if u really wanted too(1 as a clutch if u
>want)although I dont bother. Only concession is that to have split axis
>I had to disable FF which hasn't been a problem but might be when 1.1
>comes out.

by **Steve** » Wed, 26 May 1999 04:00:00

Yellow Dot squash ball????? You've lost me completely. What are
you talking about? I assume it's some way of providing an increasing
resistence when braking by placing a squash ball somewhere in the
mechanism?

Steve S

>Had mine for 6 months or so and i'm not ...err.. gentle by any means,
>but they have shown no signs of softening or failure. One GREAT
>addition (for GPL anyway) is the famous yellow-dot squash ball to the
>brake pedal. THAT is a must do!

>>: I've pretty much decided to get the MS FF wheel. I have one
>>:question though. How difficult is it to replace the springs in the
>>:pedals? They seem soft, especially the brake pedal. Are they easy to
>>:get to? Was it tricky?
>>:
>>: Steve S
>>:+-----------------------------------+-------------------------------------+

>>:| And quickly he's subdued | Split_S3 on IRC |
>>:| Thru constant pained disgrace | Steve-S on TEN |
>>:| The young boy learns their rules | Unforgiven (-unfg-) on Warbirds |
>>:| Metallica | Dweebs of Death |
>>:+-----------------------------------+-------------------------------------+
>>:| Dale Earnhardt | Dale Earnhardt Jr |
>>:+-------------------------------------------------------------------------+

>G. Patricks

by **S?ren Sarstru** » Wed, 26 May 1999 04:00:00

> Yellow Dot squash ball????? You've lost me completely. What are
>you talking about? I assume it's some way of providing an increasing
>resistence when braking by placing a squash ball somewhere in the
>mechanism?

I bought a set of garden tennis rackets that came with a soft foam ball. I
cut a bit off the ball, and simply (very low-tech) stuck it in the gap under
the brake pedal. Yes I know it sounds ridiculous, but it rocks in GPL I
cant drive without it, it is impossible to get any decent braking without
locking the wheels IMHO.

I dont understand why they cant build in this sort of increased brake
pedal resistance from the factory tho....

Soren Sarstrup
Copenhagen, Denmark

by **Vince Fishe** » Wed, 26 May 1999 04:00:00

Yes the MS pedals are split axis, with or without FF .
but the way I have wired up another set of pedals to the same gameport I
have to disable ff to use them on split axis as well. Because there
aren't many pins left and disabling any of the others seems to stop the
wheel being connected, but using 1 of the pins that uses the FF (cant
remember which, without looking at my notes) I can use it for the new
pedals splitting them.
hope that makes sense.
--
Vince Fisher

by **Stephen Warrio** » Wed, 26 May 1999 04:00:00

>It is possible to use other pedals with the MSFF wheel using the single
>gameport on your soundcard.I am using the MSff wheel with the pedals off
>of my digital edge f1sim 9on my SBlive card)and in gpl u can use all 4
>pedals at the same time if u really wanted too(1 as a clutch if u
>want)although I dont bother. Only concession is that to have split axis
>I had to disable FF which hasn't been a problem but might be when 1.1
>comes out.
>--
>Vince Fisher

How did you do this? Any information on how you wired this up or what your
source of information was would be appreciated, by me at least.

by **G. Patric** » Thu, 27 May 1999 04:00:00

Well i'll try to bring you back... Its been explained in this group
about 20 times in the past several months, but here it is once more.

I quote Jack Rambo's earlier post:

"A fix in 4 easy steps:

1. Get a Dunlop yellow dot squash ball.

2. Cut it in half.

3. Take one half and place it on top of the *** stop that the MSFF
brake pedal makes contact with when full depressed.

4. Recalibrate your brake pedal with the squash ball in place.
It should calibrate to a range from 6-8 to 65. The low number should
correspond to the hardest that you can imagine ever pressing the brake
pedal while driving GPL. The harder you press in calibrating, the
harder you'll have to press while racing to get full braking effect.
If you have a tendency to lock the brakes, press hard so that full
braking force is applied only if you're pressing really hard when
racing.

This little trick adds progressive resistance to your braking and
you'll be amazed at the difference it'll make in your performance!"

G. Patricks

by **Vince Fishe** » Thu, 27 May 1999 04:00:00

>>It is possible to use other pedals with the MSFF wheel using the single
>>gameport on your soundcard.I am using the MSff wheel with the pedals off
>>of my digital edge f1sim 9on my SBlive card)and in gpl u can use all 4
>>pedals at the same time if u really wanted too(1 as a clutch if u
>>want)although I dont bother. Only concession is that to have split axis
>>I had to disable FF which hasn't been a problem but might be when 1.1
>>comes out.
>>--
>>Vince Fisher

>How did you do this? Any information on how you wired this up or what your
>source of information was would be appreciated, by me at least.

I'll have to hunt up my notes to let you know what the wiring was,so
give me a bit of time.Basically I made a pass through for all the pins
the MSFF wheel uses and tried to use the spare pins to get a
potentiometer working, which was easy and then I stumbled on disabling
the pin for ff could then be used to split the pedals as well.
Once I knew that the 2 pots worked it was simple enough working out the
wiring to the pedals.I'll try and sort out the wiring for you but it
could be very different for all I know on another FF wheel.

Heres the site for the rbfix program which sets up a dummy axis so that
the pedals can be recognised.
http://home.att.net/~stickworks/ some other good utils there too.

ok I just found my notes,and they are a bit of a mess :-)
but if u wanted to know the wiring I could write it all out for you.
What the hell here we are,I managed to decipher them.

Gameport 1 to 1 FF wheel
2 to 2 FF
3 to 3 FF
4 to 4 FF
5 not connected
6 to 11 pedals
7 to 7 ff
8 to 8 ff
9 to 1 pedals
10 to 10 ff
11 to 6 pedals
12 to 12 FF
13 not connected
14 to 14 ff
15 to 1 pedals

with that you should have split axis pedals and no FF thats with the
switch in the pedals to split axis of course.

If you put a switch in the connection from 11 on gameport to 6 on pedals
and 11 on FF wheel and switch the pedals to 1 axis then u can use the
pedals with games with ff in theory. although ive had problems getting
other games to work with them because when u go to select an axis to
use, the programs tend to think that a button on the device is being
pressed so selects that instead :-( ,im trying to find a work around for
this.works excellently for GPL though which was all I intended it to do.

Hope that made sense,if not feel free to ask any more questions.

--
Vince Fisher

by **Philip For** » Fri, 28 May 1999 04:00:00

Geez it may have been explained in this group about 20 times but can you be
more clear as to which half of the ball you use ;))

Regards Phil.

> Well i'll try to bring you back... Its been explained in this group
> about 20 times in the past several months, but here it is once more.

> I quote Jack Rambo's earlier post:

> "A fix in 4 easy steps:

> 1. Get a Dunlop yellow dot squash ball.

> 2. Cut it in half.

> 3. Take one half and place it on top of the *** stop that the MSFF
> brake pedal makes contact with when full depressed.

> 4. Recalibrate your brake pedal with the squash ball in place.
> It should calibrate to a range from 6-8 to 65. The low number should
> correspond to the hardest that you can imagine ever pressing the brake
> pedal while driving GPL. The harder you press in calibrating, the
> harder you'll have to press while racing to get full braking effect.
> If you have a tendency to lock the brakes, press hard so that full
> braking force is applied only if you're pressing really hard when
> racing.

> This little trick adds progressive resistance to your braking and
> you'll be amazed at the difference it'll make in your performance!"

> G. Patricks

by **Steve** » Fri, 28 May 1999 04:00:00

I agree. I'm still confused. Should I use the top 1/2 of the ball
or the bottom 1/2????? And I should put it on top of the pedal????
How's it going to help there???? Can I put the unused 1/2 in the
center of the wheel like a horn button??? Or should I put a peice of
elastic string on it, carve out the middle and use it as a nose guard
for when I lay my head on my wheel after making that really bonehead
move????

:-)

Confused in Texas.

>Geez it may have been explained in this group about 20 times but can you be
>more clear as to which half of the ball you use ;))

>Regards Phil.

>> Well i'll try to bring you back... Its been explained in this group
>> about 20 times in the past several months, but here it is once more.

>> I quote Jack Rambo's earlier post:

>> "A fix in 4 easy steps:

>> 1. Get a Dunlop yellow dot squash ball.

>> 2. Cut it in half.

>> 3. Take one half and place it on top of the *** stop that the MSFF
>> brake pedal makes contact with when full depressed.

>> 4. Recalibrate your brake pedal with the squash ball in place.
>> It should calibrate to a range from 6-8 to 65. The low number should
>> correspond to the hardest that you can imagine ever pressing the brake
>> pedal while driving GPL. The harder you press in calibrating, the
>> harder you'll have to press while racing to get full braking effect.
>> If you have a tendency to lock the brakes, press hard so that full
>> braking force is applied only if you're pressing really hard when
>> racing.

>> This little trick adds progressive resistance to your braking and
>> you'll be amazed at the difference it'll make in your performance!"

>> G. Patricks

by **G. Patric** » Fri, 28 May 1999 04:00:00

Sorry, I should have explained that the ball halves get glued to the
bottom of your shoes.. The half with the yellow dot, and this should
have been obvious to you, goes on your braking foot.. ;-).

> I agree. I'm still confused. Should I use the top 1/2 of the ball
>or the bottom 1/2????? And I should put it on top of the pedal????
>How's it going to help there???? Can I put the unused 1/2 in the
>center of the wheel like a horn button??? Or should I put a peice of
>elastic string on it, carve out the middle and use it as a nose guard
>for when I lay my head on my wheel after making that really bonehead
>move????

> :-)

> Confused in Texas.

>>Geez it may have been explained in this group about 20 times but can you be
>>more clear as to which half of the ball you use ;))

>>Regards Phil.

>>> Well i'll try to bring you back... Its been explained in this group
>>> about 20 times in the past several months, but here it is once more.

>>> I quote Jack Rambo's earlier post:

>>> "A fix in 4 easy steps:

>>> 1. Get a Dunlop yellow dot squash ball.

>>> 2. Cut it in half.

>>> 3. Take one half and place it on top of the *** stop that the MSFF
>>> brake pedal makes contact with when full depressed.

>>> 4. Recalibrate your brake pedal with the squash ball in place.
>>> It should calibrate to a range from 6-8 to 65. The low number should
>>> correspond to the hardest that you can imagine ever pressing the brake
>>> pedal while driving GPL. The harder you press in calibrating, the
>>> harder you'll have to press while racing to get full braking effect.
>>> If you have a tendency to lock the brakes, press hard so that full
>>> braking force is applied only if you're pressing really hard when
>>> racing.

>>> This little trick adds progressive resistance to your braking and
>>> you'll be amazed at the difference it'll make in your performance!"

>>> G. Patricks

G. Patricks

rec.autos.simulators

Microsoft FF Wheel / Pedal springs.

Microsoft FF Wheel / Pedal springs.

Microsoft FF Wheel / Pedal springs.

Microsoft FF Wheel / Pedal springs.

Microsoft FF Wheel / Pedal springs.

Microsoft FF Wheel / Pedal springs.

Microsoft FF Wheel / Pedal springs.

Microsoft FF Wheel / Pedal springs.

Microsoft FF Wheel / Pedal springs.

Microsoft FF Wheel / Pedal springs.

Microsoft FF Wheel / Pedal springs.

Microsoft FF Wheel / Pedal springs.

Microsoft FF Wheel / Pedal springs.

Microsoft FF Wheel / Pedal springs.

Microsoft FF Wheel / Pedal springs.

Microsoft FF Wheel / Pedal springs.