rec.autos.simulators

Cheers Hotdog
Hotdog

I found this in another forum.  Granted it is referenced to NR2003.
Names have been changed to protect innocent.
HTH
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Momo wheel setup

For the MOMO people, do this.
Start/Settings/Control Panel/Game Controllers.
Then..
Double Left Click on the MOMO, then click the Settings button (bottom
right).
Then set these options...

Combined - unticked (ie: no checkmark) [this allows your brake and gas
pedals to be on a separate axis, which is important to have]

Enable Force Feedback - ticked (ie: checkmark it) [this allows force
feedback in games duh]
Overall Effects Strength - 97% [the reason for 97% and NOT 100% is a long
and complicated explanation, but in short it helps oscillations from
happening]
Spring Effects Strength - 0% [no Papyrus sims use this setting and oddly
enough, if you set it to anything other than 0% you will get undesirable
effects]
Damper Effects Strength - 0% [very VERY important to set this to 0%, this is
probably THE most important setting, as it will greatly increase notchiness
and wheel twitches, even though the Papyrus sims do not exactly enable it]

Enable Centering Spring - ticked [you are going to find this strange,
because in the next setting I tell you to set it to 0%, which is odd because
why not just untick it? well, there's a reason and here it is... if you
don't tick this option and also don't have Damping set -which if your going
with these settings you won't- then a strange phenomenon happens, you will
find that if you turn your wheel rather sharply, the resistance of the wheel
just "gives out" which is not something you want to happen. I will also
admit that having this unchecked does appear to give slightly better
forces -SLIGHTLY- but the repercussions just aren't worth it for the payoff.
so in the end check this option]

Centering Spring Strength - 0% [this is IMPORTANT! i know it's weird, but
you must set it to 0% - read above option for better explanation]

Then in your Logitech Wingman Profiler, create a Nascar 2003 profile and
then set these settings as follows...

Steering Wheel Sensitivity to 33% [the reason you want to go down from the
default 50% to 33% is because at 50% the wheel is too sensitive to tiny
wheel adjustments... which is not realistic. drive your car and notice how
far you have to turn your wheel... the MOMO have a large radius to turn,
it's a shame most people only move it 5 degrees to either side. this setting
should allow more precise driving and overall smoothness as well - and you
can go down even lower if you wish, to say, 25% if you want to have even
more movement, but i suggest 33% for starters at least, get used to that and
go more later if you like the effect]

Steering Wheel Dead Zone - 2% [another long explanation would be needed and
I don't feel like telling, but in short this also helps oscillations and
twitchiness]

Accelerator Sensitivity - 55% [strangely, this option is the exact opposite
of the Steering, INCREASING this option from the default 50% to 55% makes
the gas less sensitive to the immediate input, in other words, you have to
push down farther before the car gets more power. the default 50% is a
little touchy - when you barely touch the pedal the car can spin out. 55%
helps this from happening and overall gives a more natural and fine tune
approach]

Accelerator Dead Zone - 2% [much the same reasoning as above, this helps
from keeping your car getting to much gas too fast]

Brake Sensitivity - 55% [exact same reasons as accelerator, increasing this
to 55% helps your brakes from locking up to fast. one word of note though is
that I have modified my brake pedal to include the squash ball instead of
the spring, so that may make a difference in your setup. just note that
increasing this gives less immediate braking and can help if your tires are
locking up too easily under braking]

Brake Dead Zone - 2% [same reasons as all the others dead zones]

Now, in Nascar 2003, enable the Force Feedback option under the Controls tab
and you should run this setting in between 35-65 (50 being most common
setting) depending on the track and more importantly, on your setup for that
track. I know this is a pain to have to do at each individual track, but
depending on your setup you will need to adjust the strength of the forces
in game between each track change.

Just start out from 50 and work from there. the key to adjusting strength is
this... if the wheel has a "notchy" feel, lower the setting till it JUST
goes away, if it doesn't have a notchy feel, then raise it till you feel the
notchyness and then lower it till it just goes away again. In essence giving
you the most forces while remaining smooth.
Leave Damping completely off in game... but *IF* and only if you are
oscillating exiting a corner on the straight, then you can slightly and
slowly increase it in game till you stop oscillating, but I doubt many of
you will have oscillation problems because the settings we set up earlier
should rid you of any. This is the only good thing Damping is good for, so
try not to use it unless you have to because it hurts your perfor

These are my observations(and may not necessarily be true):
The Momo Force acts differently depending on the OS. If you have Win9x, you
MUST start the profiler in order for the wheel/pedals to be recognized
correctly. Once opened, you can minimize it to the taskbar(click the X,
which doesn't really close it, just minimizes it).
With WinXP, you don't need to start the profiler at all. Seems there's
driver support for the controller always running, and you can fiddle a
little in control panel if you like. Of course, you can also start up and
minimize the profiler, which will give you some more options to play with.
Interesting thing between the 2 operating systems is that the wheel feels
different between XP and 9x. I have a few Momo forces, 2 on 9x systems, and
one on XP pro. All are brand new, and all were swapped around to check on
the different systems(all with the same exact settings enabled in CP,
Profiler and in-game), and while your mileage may vary, the general
consensus from me and mine is that the XP OS works better with the wheel.
Can't understand why, but the driver implementation may be the culprit.
That is all.

Oh yeah, forgot to mention...
There is a difference between leaving the profiler in the taskbar and never
opening it(after the initial setup) as XXXXX1 recommended(XP systems only).
At least from where I sit, if you don't have the Profiler minimized those
extra settings aren't recognized. Only the ones in Control Panel are used.
Test it. Open up the Profiler, select a game profile, goto edit/specific
game settings, and turn your effects strength down to 0%. Now go into the
game and make sure you can't feel any forces. Get out of the game, shut down
the Profiler in the taskbar(right-click and choose exit), and start up the
game again. You will find that the forces are back, since the Profiler is
disabled, and is now falling back to the Control Panel settings only.
Once again, this can only be tested in WinXP, as 9x doesn't support the
wheel without Profiler running.

Thanks XXXXX2 for your detailed MOMO settings. I too use this incomparable
Force Feedback wheel, although my settings are slightly different....
Mostly for convenience's sake, I try to avoid using the Wingmaster profiler
if I can help it. In the Game Controllers Control Panel, I have the
following settings:
Overall FF effects set to 100% Spring and Dampenng sliders set to 0%
Centering Spring for On and set to 25%
In NR2003's Control Options, I have:
FF Strength set to 100% Dampening and Latency set to 0% Linear steering 100%
The above settings give me outstanding results with no choppiness or
unrealistic oscillations.
Cheers!

Hotdog
Hotdog

  In the control panel, choose the properties and uncheck the combined
pedals.  Check the Force Feedback box.  Move the top slider to near 100%
and zero the rest for now.  No center spring(Papyrus doesn't use it, they
cover it in their own Ff)
  In logitech software, move the steering axis sensitivityto 50% and the
range to 100%.  All Deadzones to zero.
good luck.  After you run some practice laps, you may want to try changing
the Spring effect and the damper effect back in the control panel.
good luck.
dave henrie