rec.autos.simulators

I first started using it with F1 2002 as my last wheel ( Thrustmaster
Ferrari FF) broke. My initial problem was that the amount of lock on the
wheel was huge and I was having to nearly cross my arms over to get round
some turns. After a couple of weeks I managed to get it going by turning the
x sensitivity slider in the game up to 88%, now the wheel movement copies
the movement of the wheel on screen in the game and things are sweet.

So next was Nascar 2002 and again I fixed the same problem by adjusting the
wheel linearity setting up to 100% and all is good.

But here where the problems begin that I have not been able to fix, some
games dont have sensitivity or linearity settings for example SBK 2001 so
basically I am left with an unresponsive wheel which leaves the sim
undriveable.SO I am a bit gutted to say the least, also the same prob with
Moto GP (which is pure shit arcade) so this could be a problem.

Anyway the wheel is good but my old thrustmaster for instance on f1 2001
didnt even need any adjustment and this one is at 88%, big difference and
big problem.

I hope new games coming out are going to be driveable and have the neccesary
in game setup options to allow me the use the wheel as it sure cost enough
money.

Adrian.

http://home.att.net/~stickworks/swdownld.html#CTFJV320
http://home.att.net/~stickworks/ctfjv320.zip

Have fun!

CTFJV320.ZIP contains version 3.20 of the CTFJ Joystick Utility for
W95 and W98. CTFJ features improved scaling and deadzone routines and
expanded scaling methods over those provided with Windows as well as
providing Gain and Range adjustments that allow you tailor your
joystick reponse for optimum results with any game or simulation.

WTF?  I would recommend turning the speed sensitivity down to 0% and then
change the X-axis sensitivity down to about 10% or lower with a steering
lock of 20 degrees or so.  This will give a dramatically more realistic
handling experience.

I still can't believe that people feel the need to have a wheel so
sensitive.  At 100% linearity, you'd be using about 1/2 inch of travel on
your wheel on the ovals.  Needless to say, this won't give you maximum
control.

Hmm, now I'm thinking there must be something wrong with your wheel (or
config)

1) adjust your in game setups to have less wheel lock. Which may have a draw
back on some really tight turns.

2) Use the wingman software to make a profile for each game and adjust the
wheel axis settings there. I use this method myself. Just an FYI you can
adjust the brake and accelerator pedals as well if needed.

MadDAWG

"MadDAWG"  wrote

MadDAWG, I think he might want more wheel lock so a smaller input on his
MOMO will make the car wheels turn more ;-)

I agree with Adrian that, ergonomically, a 270 wheel sweep is just too
much. It's good for marketing, but not for driving. 180 to 190 seems about
right for *most* drivers. This is how the Ferrari and old LWFF were set up.
I know that real cars have much more sweep than this, but they are set up
with  hyper-linear (the opposite of non-linear) steering. So, most of the
turning is done in the first 120 of rotation (from top center). A few games
have a setting for this on the wheel and pedal axes, but most don't. The
settings would look like this:
non-linear to linear to hyper-linear
A large steering arc also spreads out the points of resolution for the
wheel, effectively making it less precise.

--
Slot

Tweaks & Reviews
www.slottweak.com

MadDAWG

Yep your right. I always get lock and ratio back asswards. :).

MadDAWG

F1 2002 has a "hyper-sensitivity" setting.  You simply increase X-axis sens
above 50%.  I can assure you that it's completely undrivable though - even
with a MOMO (unless you're using some speed sensitivity.)  F1RC also has
this type of setting...

Adrian.

I've always used 100% linear steering with no sensitivity reduction with
speed for the (imo) most realistic feeling and even with the momo's 270
degrees I still have to make the steering 'faster' than I would like e.g.
at monaco to get around the hairpins.

I.e. a large sweep allows you to use more linear steering with exactly
the same amounts of steering input at 'normal' turns. That you have
to cross your arms in the few cases where full steering lock is
required (hairpins and in the pits) isn't much of an disadvantage imho,
especially when considering that this is just the same as with many
(most?) real race cars.

[snip]

This is true at least for low quality wheels and controllers, but for
me it is just a reason to avoid the low resolution stuff. (E.g. the PDPI's
8-bit resolution was a major disappointment to me for this reason).

      _
Mats Lofkvist

That's certainly been my experience with my LWFF.  Yet, I often see other
people with LWFFs using 100%  linear in GPL and then driving by barely even
twitching.  These small, jolting movements (due to the low resolution)
certainly don't complement my driving style....HFC

--
Slot

Tweaks & Reviews
www.slottweak.com

--
Gunnar
    #31 SUCKS#015 Tupperware MC#002 DoD#0x1B DoDRT#003 DoD:CT#4,8 Kibo: 2
                 "Det er nok ingen ovn, men fartsm?leren v?r."