If we're talking the original, red MOMO, this should be extremely easy to
do:
Undo the 6 hex screws that hold the brushed metal plate on the face of the
wheel.
*** Warning: the wheel is now no longer held on to the base, so don't pull
on it or allow the base to drop away. ***
Remove the plate, undo the lefthand connector and remove the 3? (not sure)
screws holding the switch/led PCB in place. Take out the PCB, replace the
microswitch with a similar item from any electronic parts store (requires
basic rework equipment, i.e. a soldering iron/lead and some desoldering
braid), re-assemble and Bob is your proverbial uncle.
Buying another wheel to replace a Logitech MOMO... tssk!! ;-)
TSSK!!! ;-)
Depends on one's game of choice and one's willingness to fiddle with
settings to get a good feel for the virtual vehicle. The only games to
acchieve approximate realism are GPL/NR2003, F12002/F1C, RC2001, Rally
Trophy and LFS, IMO. Exact realism is questionable because the limited
amount of lock-to-lock travel of the PC wheel vs. its real life counterpart
tends to tilt either the forces or the weighing of the steering too much, so
I think it's best to view FF as a tool to immersion/consistency/fun rather
than an exact simulation (it's also pretty individual).
It helps my consistency and enjoyment, but non-FF is definately faster once
one is used to it.
Yes, even with power steering suspension forces are reacted through the
wheel. There is no car where you can drive along, set an amount of lock, let
go of the wheel and continue on the same radius. Even non-FF wheels
"simulate" self aligning torque.
Non-FF is a disadvantage when running the latest NASCAR games as instead of
the geometry ensuring that the wheel is "naturally" slightly turned to the
right while going straight, non-FF users have to hold the wheel in that
position while its centering spring pushes it back.
Jan.
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