is your TSW a gameport version connected to an USB converter or a
brand-new, factory-usb-equipped generic USB version?
I have RBR working fine on my gameport=>USB (Rockfire adapter) tsw2mod
wheel, but it did require a bit of fiddling with the wires.
All the best,
uwe
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> Hi Jim,
> is your TSW a gameport version connected to an USB converter or a
> brand-new, factory-usb-equipped generic USB version?
> I have RBR working fine on my gameport=>USB (Rockfire adapter) tsw2mod
> wheel, but it did require a bit of fiddling with the wires.
> All the best,
> uwe
> --
> GPG Fingerprint: 2E 13 20 22 9A 3F 63 7F 67 6F E9 B1 A8 36 A4 61
I guess having at done at the factory is the better way as I think
you'll achieve a higher resolution than with a run-of-the-mill usb
adapter and hi-spec pots.
So here's what you need to do, in order to get RBR to run with the
TSW (and I'd say it's worth it:)
- open up your pedal unit, locate the brake axis pot, you'll note it
has three soldering stations; if not, stop here ;-) if it has,
solder an additional short piece of wire to the third station which
is unoccupied.
- unplug the wire from the other station (not the one in the middle)
from the plastic connector where it enters the pedal base
- plug in the end of the other, newly-soldered wire into the pedal
unit connector where the other was plugged in before
This will reverse the motion of your brake axis, so now within RBR it
should go from zero to 100 as you depress it.
About the throttle: if your windows calibration crosshair is all
"jumpy" in the y direction on the slightest touch of the pedal, try to
depress it "slightly" all the time while calibrating it, never fully
releasing it.
Also, playing with the filter settings in rbr's controller setup can /
might help a lot.
Please note that all these instructions are based on my non-converted
tsw2mod gameport version of this most excellent wheel.
Let me know if you need more help and & I'll be happy to try and
provide it.
Cheers & good luck,
uwe
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RBR is worth the effort and split axis pedals are pretty much essential (for
left-foot braking) but it seems to have been designed with only Logitech
wheels in mind. It works straight out of the box with a Momo for example.
Malc.
> > This will reverse the motion of your brake axis, so now within RBR it
> > should go from zero to 100 as you depress it.
> Just a quick note to add hat this will mean you need to re-assign the
> controls in your other sims Jim, but all the other ones should have no
> problems dealing with the revised setup.
> RBR is worth the effort and split axis pedals are pretty much essential
(for
> left-foot braking) but it seems to have been designed with only Logitech
> wheels in mind. It works straight out of the box with a Momo for example.
> Malc.
> I guess having at done at the factory is the better way as I think
> you'll achieve a higher resolution than with a run-of-the-mill usb
> adapter and hi-spec pots.
> So here's what you need to do, in order to get RBR to run with the
> TSW (and I'd say it's worth it:)
> - open up your pedal unit, locate the brake axis pot, you'll note it
> has three soldering stations; if not, stop here ;-) if it has,
> solder an additional short piece of wire to the third station which
> is unoccupied.
> - unplug the wire from the other station (not the one in the middle)
> from the plastic connector where it enters the pedal base
> - plug in the end of the other, newly-soldered wire into the pedal
> unit connector where the other was plugged in before
> This will reverse the motion of your brake axis, so now within RBR it
> should go from zero to 100 as you depress it.
You can also try to use DXTweak, check the "raw" range of your controller
and then manually enter the range in the right pane. There you can enter
"center" point explicitly (set it to average of min and max values). This
way you won't need any windows calibration. It worked for me (and I
couldn't make it work through windows calibration)
Alex.
you're not changing the wiring, just unplugging one wire and sticking
in another which you've soldered to the pot, so actually you're
"adding" to the setup, not removing anything. At least this is what
did the trick for me on my non-converted tsw2.
All the best,
uwe
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