rec.autos.simulators

So which FF wheel should I buy?

Karl Zose

So which FF wheel should I buy?

by Karl Zose » Thu, 23 Dec 1999 04:00:00

Guillemot?
Logitech?
Microsoft?

Which ones are DIGITAL controllers? Which ones analogue?
Whats the difference?
Tell me

I wanna race GPL most of all but precision is MOST important to me.

Shum

So which FF wheel should I buy?

by Shum » Thu, 23 Dec 1999 04:00:00

Precision wise.... the best you'll get is from the Logitech at approximately
128 positioning resolution.

Act Labs does however have a positioning resolution only slightly lower (and
far better than Microsoft or Guillemot), and also supports the Shifter
(which I use in GPL with great pleasure).

As far as I'm concerned.... these are the ONLY 2 wheels worth considering at
the present moment. You will still get exponentially more precise control
from an analog controller and the PDPI gameport. The best in that field is
the Act Labs RS, and the PDPI Gamecard/cartridge. It boasts the most stable
reporting, the positioning resolution is rock solid at 256 (all axis), and
there is NO taxation on the CPU (unless you consider 0.18% CPU usage
taxation... compared to 50% on the standard gameport with some wheels).

All FF USB wheels are "digital" (all USB wheels for that matter), and don't
be tricked into thinking that the Microsoft Wheel and it's Electro-optic
positioning mechanisms are more accurate... they aren't after you cut into
the positioning resolution to combat the enormous amount of mechanical
jitter that accompanies such internals. Not to mention the brutal rachety
feeling to it.

Hope that helps :)

Cheers,

Shumi
http://www.rs2league.com


Zeke Var

So which FF wheel should I buy?

by Zeke Var » Thu, 23 Dec 1999 04:00:00

Are the Logitech pedals any good? I have read that they are the bad part!



> Precision wise.... the best you'll get is from the Logitech at
approximately
> 128 positioning resolution.

> Act Labs does however have a positioning resolution only slightly lower
(and
> far better than Microsoft or Guillemot), and also supports the Shifter
> (which I use in GPL with great pleasure).

> As far as I'm concerned.... these are the ONLY 2 wheels worth considering
at
> the present moment. You will still get exponentially more precise control
> from an analog controller and the PDPI gameport. The best in that field is
> the Act Labs RS, and the PDPI Gamecard/cartridge. It boasts the most
stable
> reporting, the positioning resolution is rock solid at 256 (all axis), and
> there is NO taxation on the CPU (unless you consider 0.18% CPU usage
> taxation... compared to 50% on the standard gameport with some wheels).

> All FF USB wheels are "digital" (all USB wheels for that matter), and
don't
> be tricked into thinking that the Microsoft Wheel and it's Electro-optic
> positioning mechanisms are more accurate... they aren't after you cut into
> the positioning resolution to combat the enormous amount of mechanical
> jitter that accompanies such internals. Not to mention the brutal rachety
> feeling to it.

> Hope that helps :)

> Cheers,

> Shumi
> http://www.rs2league.com



> > Guillemot?
> > Logitech?
> > Microsoft?

> > Which ones are DIGITAL controllers? Which ones analogue?
> > Whats the difference?
> > Tell me

> > I wanna race GPL most of all but precision is MOST important to me.

speedrace

So which FF wheel should I buy?

by speedrace » Thu, 23 Dec 1999 04:00:00

Personally, I originally tried the thrustmaster, I left it hooked up for a
total of two hours before I hooked my old nascar pro back up.  The force
feedback implementation completley ruined the design of the wheel, which was
pretty good.  It was way way way to clunky for me, and I had lots of
hardware glitches after the install.  I bought the Wingman Formula Force
about 2 months later, and it has been heaven.  I think I've had it about 6
months now, with absolutely zero problems, and it plugs into the USB port
besides, so I have no hardware conflicts.  I couldn't ask for a better
wheel.  It is very smooth, and the software for adjusting the effects is
easy to use, and it is easy to dial in just the right amount of force.(you
can go from overdoing the force, to none at all, with lots of room
inbetween.)

Jalo

So which FF wheel should I buy?

by Jalo » Fri, 24 Dec 1999 04:00:00

Correct me if I'm wrong, but I know the Logitech and the "Ferrari" wheel are
anolog, they use standard pots.
I'm not so sure about the Microsoft, it might be digital.
I own the Logitech FF, and it's great. I'm not sure about all that
resolution stuff your talking about, but the logitech is very accurate.

Jalo

So which FF wheel should I buy?

by Jalo » Fri, 24 Dec 1999 04:00:00

The pedals on the Logitech do require awhile to get used to. But I actaully
prefer them now that I've gotten used to them. They seem to be better suited
for people who drive with only one foot.

Gary Shepar

So which FF wheel should I buy?

by Gary Shepar » Fri, 24 Dec 1999 04:00:00

Well I have owned a V4 Force Feedback Interact Wheel since last Christmas,
recently
I decided to purchase the Act Labs Force RS wheel.  I thought the USB and
shifter additions looked interesting.
When I received them I immediately removed the InterAct V4 and installed the
Act Labs Force RS with Shifter through the USB port.
I was highly dissappointed in the feedback "feel" compared to the Act Labs
wheel. Other than that the fit and finish of the Act Labs RS is superb. The
shifter worked superb. The gas and brake pedals are superb. I feel the
InterAct V4 software interface is much better and easier to program. After
keeping the Act Labs Force RS for about a week and dealing with their superb
tech support I was forced to return their Force RS wheel. I really wanted to
keep it just because of the USB and Shifter features, But the InterAct V4
beats it hands down in actual game play enjoyment The bumps (rough roads)
feel like bumps. The slides like slides, Crashes like crashes, engine rumble
like an engine rumbling ect. ect.

I was ready to trade off the Interact V4 for the new RS Force but I couldn't
do it. The InterAct V4 wheel has spoiled me. Until a wheel comes along that
has at least equal to performance in force feedback I have to remain
satisfied with this simple but very gratifying wheel.

Shum

So which FF wheel should I buy?

by Shum » Fri, 24 Dec 1999 04:00:00

Just because wheels use potentiometers does not make them "analog". The USB
chip will have an A->D (analog to digital) conversion onboard the design (in
the chip itself, or separatly). Therefor the signal coming out of the wheel
is digital. This is the case with all USB since you are sending digital only
signals through there.

So I guess the m***of the story is: The mechanical method of determining
the position of the wheel has little to do with whether it's digital. It's
the method in which you report the information to the computer that counts.

It's when you send analog signals to the computer to "comprehend" for you,
that you run into taxation on the system, and the fact that the Standard
Gameport is time-based only increases that taxation exponentially. You save
a lot of time and taxation by translating the signals to digital onboard the
controller itself (hence why every controller manufacturer is desperatly
converting their product lines to USB... including Microsoft and their
"digital technology"...)

It's a common error, and don't feel bad for thinking pots = analog.

FYI,

Shumi


Scott B. Huste

So which FF wheel should I buy?

by Scott B. Huste » Fri, 24 Dec 1999 04:00:00

You say you are using the RS Shifter with GPL.  Im assuming you mean you are
using it in legacy mode?

If not, I would love to know how you got GPL to support the free shifting.

Scott
PA-Scott
Powersims.com

--
Scott B. Husted
ICQ# 4395450

Shum

So which FF wheel should I buy?

by Shum » Fri, 24 Dec 1999 04:00:00

Yes Scott, I use the Shifter in Legacy mode until Papy realizes it is an
idea peripheral for the game. Most racing nowadays uses sequential shifting,
but the shifter offers a nice "immersiveness" in most, since most dio not
employ paddle shifters, but rather a legacy style shifter.

Still not sure what Papy is waiting for personally. It's too easy to
implement into the game, and is an ideal addition for GPL particularly.

Cheers,

Shumi
http://www.rs2league.com



Scott B. Huste

So which FF wheel should I buy?

by Scott B. Huste » Fri, 24 Dec 1999 04:00:00

Shumi,

I tried starting a 'campaign' for RS Shifter support in GPL at Powersims.com
<VBG>

So I ask again...  Anyone who owns a Force RS Wheel and RS Shifter combination
to email Sierra/Papy and ask for support of the RS Shifter.

Hell, even if you DON'T own this combo.. email them anyways!  <VBG>

Scott
PA-Scott
Powersims.com

--
Scott B. Husted
ICQ# 4395450

Ian Parke

So which FF wheel should I buy?

by Ian Parke » Fri, 24 Dec 1999 04:00:00

Potentiometers, by definition are analogue devices, this is then converted
to a digital signal for USB devices. This is fine when the pots are in good
condition but when they start wearing out (as all devices that rely on
moving contacts will) the signal to the A > D converter will be unstable
therefore the outgoing signal will also be unstable.
As for the optical sensors in the MSFF wheel they do not rely on contact of
moving parts, therefore will not wear and will always give a stable signal
to the gameport (maybe USB when they get around to it)
As for going on about positioning resolution, it has plenty for what I
require plus has no vagueness in its positioning as an analogue pot will
have (Analogue pots are affected by heat dust etc...)
The MSFF may have a higher CPU usage than many analogue wheels but I really
don't notice it in the real world.
So when you are looking for pots for your Logitech (or whatever wheel you
have that uses analogue pots) I'll still be racing with optical sensor
accuracy using my Microsoft wheel ;)

--
Ian Parker

UKGPL League
http://www.racesimcentral.net/
http://www.racesimcentral.net/
--

> Just because wheels use potentiometers does not make them "analog". The
USB
> chip will have an A->D (analog to digital) conversion onboard the design
(in
> the chip itself, or separatly). Therefor the signal coming out of the
wheel
> is digital. This is the case with all USB since you are sending digital
only
> signals through there.

> So I guess the m***of the story is: The mechanical method of determining
> the position of the wheel has little to do with whether it's digital. It's
> the method in which you report the information to the computer that
counts.

> It's when you send analog signals to the computer to "comprehend" for you,
> that you run into taxation on the system, and the fact that the Standard
> Gameport is time-based only increases that taxation exponentially. You
save
> a lot of time and taxation by translating the signals to digital onboard
the
> controller itself (hence why every controller manufacturer is desperatly
> converting their product lines to USB... including Microsoft and their
> "digital technology"...)

> It's a common error, and don't feel bad for thinking pots = analog.

> FYI,

> Shumi



> > > All FF USB wheels are "digital" (all USB wheels for that matter), and
> > don't
> > > be tricked into thinking that the Microsoft Wheel and it's
Electro-optic
> > > positioning mechanisms are more accurate... they aren't after you cut
> into
> > > the positioning resolution to combat the enormous amount of mechanical
> > > jitter that accompanies such internals. Not to mention the brutal
> rachety
> > > feeling to it.

> > Correct me if I'm wrong, but I know the Logitech and the "Ferrari" wheel
> are
> > anolog, they use standard pots.
> > I'm not so sure about the Microsoft, it might be digital.
> > I own the Logitech FF, and it's great. I'm not sure about all that
> > resolution stuff your talking about, but the logitech is very accurate.

Shum

So which FF wheel should I buy?

by Shum » Fri, 24 Dec 1999 04:00:00

If only this were the case. Unfortunately the Electro-optical sensors are
susceptible to dust interference etc. that will also interrupt the
positioning information. This is just a fact of life. True they will not
"wear" like potentiometers do (another fact of life), but I emplore you to
ask Microsoft why they have 9 bits of information coming into their
processor, and only 6 bits coming out the other end to the computer. This is
because they have to due to the enormous amount of "mechanical jitter" these
electro-optical sensors produce.

The time it takes the USB chip or separate A->D converters to translate the
analog signal into digital information is considerably shorter than the
amount of positioning data the computer is requesting. Therefor... there is
absolutely NOTHING wrong with using analog pots and translating the
information into digital bits. In fact... the potentiometers are accompanied
by substantially less mechanical jitter than electro-optical sensors, making
potentiometers a better solution at this point in time. You have to
remember... JITTERING is the enemy! It's how you deal with the jitter that
governs the performance of the wheel/joystick overall.

I am sure that you are very happy with your MS wheel, and I am glad this is
the case. However, I cannot allow others to recommend the MS wheel based on
it's technical short comings. I used to think my Nascar Pro wheel was  Da
Bomb for the longest time.... until I tried the Act Labs RS w/PDPI
gameport.... then I realized what I had been mising all along. Full 256
positioning resolution (every degree of turn accounted for), no jitters
whatsoever (the PDPI filtering algorithm is brilliant), and I knocked full
seconds off my lap times as a result.

To say that the MS wheel functions great is very subjective and opinion, but
it's technical merits are fact, and fall very short of the competition in
ALL areas. There ARE better out there... I suggest the Logi or the Act Labs
F-RS based on their technical merits and overall pleasure of driving (in my
experience).

Just my 2 cents (which is worth 1 in 2 years).

Cheers,

Shumi
http://www.racesimcentral.net/


> Potentiometers, by definition are analogue devices, this is then converted
> to a digital signal for USB devices. This is fine when the pots are in
good
> condition but when they start wearing out (as all devices that rely on
> moving contacts will) the signal to the A > D converter will be unstable
> therefore the outgoing signal will also be unstable.
> As for the optical sensors in the MSFF wheel they do not rely on contact
of
> moving parts, therefore will not wear and will always give a stable signal
> to the gameport (maybe USB when they get around to it)
> As for going on about positioning resolution, it has plenty for what I
> require plus has no vagueness in its positioning as an analogue pot will
> have (Analogue pots are affected by heat dust etc...)
> The MSFF may have a higher CPU usage than many analogue wheels but I
really
> don't notice it in the real world.
> So when you are looking for pots for your Logitech (or whatever wheel you
> have that uses analogue pots) I'll still be racing with optical sensor
> accuracy using my Microsoft wheel ;)

> --
> Ian Parker

> UKGPL League
> http://www.racesimcentral.net/
> http://www.racesimcentral.net/
> --


> > Just because wheels use potentiometers does not make them "analog". The
> USB
> > chip will have an A->D (analog to digital) conversion onboard the design
> (in
> > the chip itself, or separatly). Therefor the signal coming out of the
> wheel
> > is digital. This is the case with all USB since you are sending digital
> only
> > signals through there.

> > So I guess the m***of the story is: The mechanical method of
determining
> > the position of the wheel has little to do with whether it's digital.
It's
> > the method in which you report the information to the computer that
> counts.

> > It's when you send analog signals to the computer to "comprehend" for
you,
> > that you run into taxation on the system, and the fact that the Standard
> > Gameport is time-based only increases that taxation exponentially. You
> save
> > a lot of time and taxation by translating the signals to digital onboard
> the
> > controller itself (hence why every controller manufacturer is desperatly
> > converting their product lines to USB... including Microsoft and their
> > "digital technology"...)

> > It's a common error, and don't feel bad for thinking pots = analog.

> > FYI,

> > Shumi



> > > > All FF USB wheels are "digital" (all USB wheels for that matter),
and
> > > don't
> > > > be tricked into thinking that the Microsoft Wheel and it's
> Electro-optic
> > > > positioning mechanisms are more accurate... they aren't after you
cut
> > into
> > > > the positioning resolution to combat the enormous amount of
mechanical
> > > > jitter that accompanies such internals. Not to mention the brutal
> > rachety
> > > > feeling to it.

> > > Correct me if I'm wrong, but I know the Logitech and the "Ferrari"
wheel
> > are
> > > anolog, they use standard pots.
> > > I'm not so sure about the Microsoft, it might be digital.
> > > I own the Logitech FF, and it's great. I'm not sure about all that
> > > resolution stuff your talking about, but the logitech is very
accurate.

Shum

So which FF wheel should I buy?

by Shum » Sat, 25 Dec 1999 04:00:00

Hehe..... don't forget to send Act Labs your consulting fee invoice after
it's done ;)

Kiddin of course... but it would be pretty neat to have full support in
GPL...

Cheers,

Shumi
http://www.rs2league.com

P.S. Scott.... what ever happened to posting my link on your site?



Peter Hoope

So which FF wheel should I buy?

by Peter Hoope » Sat, 25 Dec 1999 04:00:00

No brutal rachety feel to the MSFF I own.. very smooth and precise feeling.
Also no framerate hit either, actually since moving over to DirectX 7.0a my
framerates have improved over those I was getting when using my old non-ff
wheel. There seem to be so many different opinions on the various wheels out
there that I think it really is a case of trying as many of them as you can
and keeping the one that works best for you.

Regards

Peter Hooper


> Precision wise.... the best you'll get is from the Logitech at
approximately
> 128 positioning resolution.

> Act Labs does however have a positioning resolution only slightly lower
(and
> far better than Microsoft or Guillemot), and also supports the Shifter
> (which I use in GPL with great pleasure).

> As far as I'm concerned.... these are the ONLY 2 wheels worth considering
at
> the present moment. You will still get exponentially more precise control
> from an analog controller and the PDPI gameport. The best in that field is
> the Act Labs RS, and the PDPI Gamecard/cartridge. It boasts the most
stable
> reporting, the positioning resolution is rock solid at 256 (all axis), and
> there is NO taxation on the CPU (unless you consider 0.18% CPU usage
> taxation... compared to 50% on the standard gameport with some wheels).

> All FF USB wheels are "digital" (all USB wheels for that matter), and
don't
> be tricked into thinking that the Microsoft Wheel and it's Electro-optic
> positioning mechanisms are more accurate... they aren't after you cut into
> the positioning resolution to combat the enormous amount of mechanical
> jitter that accompanies such internals. Not to mention the brutal rachety
> feeling to it.

> Hope that helps :)

> Cheers,

> Shumi
> http://www.rs2league.com



> > Guillemot?
> > Logitech?
> > Microsoft?

> > Which ones are DIGITAL controllers? Which ones analogue?
> > Whats the difference?
> > Tell me

> > I wanna race GPL most of all but precision is MOST important to me.


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