Thanks in advance.
I had exactly the same problem when I bought mine about a month ago. The
Thrustmaster solution to remove the Thrustmapper software and load the new
driver is totally unacceptable as it doesnt let you set any force feedback
settings or run split axis. I have spoken to Thrustmaster tech support in
Canada (I'm in the UK), and his suggestion was to remove the botton of the
pedals and adjust the pot a bit. This did not work. I emailed their support
people on Jan 17th about the fact that the new driver does not give any
control over the FFB effects etc and got no reply back until Feb 6th. Even
then it didn't actually answer my questions, instead it just gave me a
returns procedure.
I dxid manage to get over the brake problem by using the DXTweak utility
(from logitech). However I also could not get the wheel to work correctly
with GPL although it was brilliant with F1 2002. Just one other thing that I
noticed was that I had a large FPS drop in F1 2002 over my old non FFB wheel
but I didn't know if this was to be expected or not.
In view of the problems with GPL, the brake problem and annoyance at their
technical support and driver issues I decided to take the wheel back to PC
World where I bought it and change it for a Logitech MOMO Force wheel.
While, ergonomically, I still prefer the Thrustmaster wheel (let's face it,
it does look the part), the MOMO is just so much better. My FPS has gone
back up to where they were before (which would tend to indicate that the
driver software is more efficient and not draining system resources), the
Logitech support web site gives much more information and help (they give
individual setup advice for just about every game available). I think the
two wheels are comparable in build quality.
It is quite possible that Thrustmaster will bring out new drivers that will
solve all the issues, in fact this is what I asked about in my email to
them. However, there was no mention of this in their reply and I couldn't
wait for something that may never happen.
Sorry this has been a long reply but I thought I'd give you all the info
Regards
Russell
I really appreciate you taking the time to reply.
I have tried a few things since posting and now have a new problem ... not
entirely new but I didn't mention it before .. :-)
I have fiddled with the sensitivity and got the brake to calibrate in
Thrustmapper but now my throttle works like it is digital. I can't feed the
power on ... it just jumps to full or nothing at all !! This is really
frustrating. As you said mate .. it does look the part.
Oh well .... I 'll keep trying.
Rob
> I had exactly the same problem when I bought mine about a month ago. The
> Thrustmaster solution to remove the Thrustmapper software and load the new
> driver is totally unacceptable as it doesnt let you set any force feedback
> settings or run split axis. I have spoken to Thrustmaster tech support in
> Canada (I'm in the UK), and his suggestion was to remove the botton of the
> pedals and adjust the pot a bit. This did not work. I emailed their
support
> people on Jan 17th about the fact that the new driver does not give any
> control over the FFB effects etc and got no reply back until Feb 6th. Even
> then it didn't actually answer my questions, instead it just gave me a
> returns procedure.
> I dxid manage to get over the brake problem by using the DXTweak utility
> (from logitech). However I also could not get the wheel to work correctly
> with GPL although it was brilliant with F1 2002. Just one other thing that
I
> noticed was that I had a large FPS drop in F1 2002 over my old non FFB
wheel
> but I didn't know if this was to be expected or not.
> In view of the problems with GPL, the brake problem and annoyance at their
> technical support and driver issues I decided to take the wheel back to PC
> World where I bought it and change it for a Logitech MOMO Force wheel.
> While, ergonomically, I still prefer the Thrustmaster wheel (let's face
it,
> it does look the part), the MOMO is just so much better. My FPS has gone
> back up to where they were before (which would tend to indicate that the
> driver software is more efficient and not draining system resources), the
> Logitech support web site gives much more information and help (they give
> individual setup advice for just about every game available). I think the
> two wheels are comparable in build quality.
> It is quite possible that Thrustmaster will bring out new drivers that
will
> solve all the issues, in fact this is what I asked about in my email to
> them. However, there was no mention of this in their reply and I couldn't
> wait for something that may never happen.
> Sorry this has been a long reply but I thought I'd give you all the info
> Regards
> Russell
> > I am testing a Ferrari F1 Force Wheel and Pedals from Thrustmaster. I am
> > running Windows XP Home and the brake does not calibrate correctly. The
> > Thrustmaster solution is to remove the Thrustmapper Software and
calibrate
> > the wheel manually. The manual drivers do not allow for a split pedal
axis
> > so I am reduced to running a new FF wheel with single axis !! To me,
this
> is
> > unacceptable. Has anyone found a solution to this problem or do I take
the
> > wheel back ??
> > Thanks in advance.
The problem you are getting is because of the deadzone setting in DirectX in
conjunction with split axis. What you need is DXTweak2 which lets you alter
the deadzone setting. However, I have read that there is a bug in DirectX on
XP that doesn't allow you to save the deadzone setting. You can get it here
http://www.wingmanteam.com/latest_software/gadgets.htm
When you launch DXTweak2 you will have a window that shows all the axis with
their RAW & Directinput values. on the right side you can select the tabs
for each axis and there is a deadzone setting. Just set this to 0 for
Accelerator and brake and you should be ok.
I know that I had exactly the same issue (before I took the wheel back) and
I did solve it using this method. However, I am running Win2000 & Win 98SE.
Let me know if I can be of any more assistance
Russell
> I really appreciate you taking the time to reply.
> I have tried a few things since posting and now have a new problem ... not
> entirely new but I didn't mention it before .. :-)
> I have fiddled with the sensitivity and got the brake to calibrate in
> Thrustmapper but now my throttle works like it is digital. I can't feed
the
> power on ... it just jumps to full or nothing at all !! This is really
> frustrating. As you said mate .. it does look the part.
> Oh well .... I 'll keep trying.
> Rob
> > Hi Rob,
> > I had exactly the same problem when I bought mine about a month ago. The
> > Thrustmaster solution to remove the Thrustmapper software and load the
new
> > driver is totally unacceptable as it doesnt let you set any force
feedback
> > settings or run split axis. I have spoken to Thrustmaster tech support
in
> > Canada (I'm in the UK), and his suggestion was to remove the botton of
the
> > pedals and adjust the pot a bit. This did not work. I emailed their
> support
> > people on Jan 17th about the fact that the new driver does not give any
> > control over the FFB effects etc and got no reply back until Feb 6th.
Even
> > then it didn't actually answer my questions, instead it just gave me a
> > returns procedure.
> > I dxid manage to get over the brake problem by using the DXTweak utility
> > (from logitech). However I also could not get the wheel to work
correctly
> > with GPL although it was brilliant with F1 2002. Just one other thing
that
> I
> > noticed was that I had a large FPS drop in F1 2002 over my old non FFB
> wheel
> > but I didn't know if this was to be expected or not.
> > In view of the problems with GPL, the brake problem and annoyance at
their
> > technical support and driver issues I decided to take the wheel back to
PC
> > World where I bought it and change it for a Logitech MOMO Force wheel.
> > While, ergonomically, I still prefer the Thrustmaster wheel (let's face
> it,
> > it does look the part), the MOMO is just so much better. My FPS has gone
> > back up to where they were before (which would tend to indicate that the
> > driver software is more efficient and not draining system resources),
the
> > Logitech support web site gives much more information and help (they
give
> > individual setup advice for just about every game available). I think
the
> > two wheels are comparable in build quality.
> > It is quite possible that Thrustmaster will bring out new drivers that
> will
> > solve all the issues, in fact this is what I asked about in my email to
> > them. However, there was no mention of this in their reply and I
couldn't
> > wait for something that may never happen.
> > Sorry this has been a long reply but I thought I'd give you all the info
> > Regards
> > Russell
> > > I am testing a Ferrari F1 Force Wheel and Pedals from Thrustmaster. I
am
> > > running Windows XP Home and the brake does not calibrate correctly.
The
> > > Thrustmaster solution is to remove the Thrustmapper Software and
> calibrate
> > > the wheel manually. The manual drivers do not allow for a split pedal
> axis
> > > so I am reduced to running a new FF wheel with single axis !! To me,
> this
> > is
> > > unacceptable. Has anyone found a solution to this problem or do I take
> the
> > > wheel back ??
> > > Thanks in advance.
> The problem you are getting is because of the deadzone setting in DirectX
in
> conjunction with split axis. What you need is DXTweak2 which lets you
alter
> the deadzone setting. However, I have read that there is a bug in DirectX
on
> XP that doesn't allow you to save the deadzone setting. You can get it
here
> http://www.wingmanteam.com/latest_software/gadgets.htm
> When you launch DXTweak2 you will have a window that shows all the axis
with
> their RAW & Directinput values. on the right side you can select the tabs
> for each axis and there is a deadzone setting. Just set this to 0 for
> Accelerator and brake and you should be ok.
> I know that I had exactly the same issue (before I took the wheel back)
and
> I did solve it using this method. However, I am running Win2000 & Win
98SE.
> Let me know if I can be of any more assistance
> Russell
> > Thanks Russell,
> > I really appreciate you taking the time to reply.
> > I have tried a few things since posting and now have a new problem ...
not
> > entirely new but I didn't mention it before .. :-)
> > I have fiddled with the sensitivity and got the brake to calibrate in
> > Thrustmapper but now my throttle works like it is digital. I can't feed
> the
> > power on ... it just jumps to full or nothing at all !! This is really
> > frustrating. As you said mate .. it does look the part.
> > Oh well .... I 'll keep trying.
> > Rob
> > > Hi Rob,
> > > I had exactly the same problem when I bought mine about a month ago.
The
> > > Thrustmaster solution to remove the Thrustmapper software and load the
> new
> > > driver is totally unacceptable as it doesnt let you set any force
> feedback
> > > settings or run split axis. I have spoken to Thrustmaster tech support
> in
> > > Canada (I'm in the UK), and his suggestion was to remove the botton of
> the
> > > pedals and adjust the pot a bit. This did not work. I emailed their
> > support
> > > people on Jan 17th about the fact that the new driver does not give
any
> > > control over the FFB effects etc and got no reply back until Feb 6th.
> Even
> > > then it didn't actually answer my questions, instead it just gave me a
> > > returns procedure.
> > > I dxid manage to get over the brake problem by using the DXTweak
utility
> > > (from logitech). However I also could not get the wheel to work
> correctly
> > > with GPL although it was brilliant with F1 2002. Just one other thing
> that
> > I
> > > noticed was that I had a large FPS drop in F1 2002 over my old non FFB
> > wheel
> > > but I didn't know if this was to be expected or not.
> > > In view of the problems with GPL, the brake problem and annoyance at
> their
> > > technical support and driver issues I decided to take the wheel back
to
> PC
> > > World where I bought it and change it for a Logitech MOMO Force wheel.
> > > While, ergonomically, I still prefer the Thrustmaster wheel (let's
face
> > it,
> > > it does look the part), the MOMO is just so much better. My FPS has
gone
> > > back up to where they were before (which would tend to indicate that
the
> > > driver software is more efficient and not draining system resources),
> the
> > > Logitech support web site gives much more information and help (they
> give
> > > individual setup advice for just about every game available). I think
> the
> > > two wheels are comparable in build quality.
> > > It is quite possible that Thrustmaster will bring out new drivers that
> > will
> > > solve all the issues, in fact this is what I asked about in my email
to
> > > them. However, there was no mention of this in their reply and I
> couldn't
> > > wait for something that may never happen.
> > > Sorry this has been a long reply but I thought I'd give you all the
info
> > > Regards
> > > Russell
> > > > I am testing a Ferrari F1 Force Wheel and Pedals from Thrustmaster.
I
> am
> > > > running Windows XP Home and the brake does not calibrate correctly.
> The
> > > > Thrustmaster solution is to remove the Thrustmapper Software and
> > calibrate
> > > > the wheel manually. The manual drivers do not allow for a split
pedal
> > axis
> > > > so I am reduced to running a new FF wheel with single axis !! To me,
> > this
> > > is
> > > > unacceptable. Has anyone found a solution to this problem or do I
take
> > the
> > > > wheel back ??
> > > > Thanks in advance.
It is time to do some laps !!! Hmmm ... 1:00am ... Maybe tomorrow !!!
> The problem you are getting is because of the deadzone setting in DirectX
in
> conjunction with split axis. What you need is DXTweak2 which lets you
alter
> the deadzone setting. However, I have read that there is a bug in DirectX
on
> XP that doesn't allow you to save the deadzone setting. You can get it
here
> http://www.wingmanteam.com/latest_software/gadgets.htm
> When you launch DXTweak2 you will have a window that shows all the axis
with
> their RAW & Directinput values. on the right side you can select the tabs
> for each axis and there is a deadzone setting. Just set this to 0 for
> Accelerator and brake and you should be ok.
> I know that I had exactly the same issue (before I took the wheel back)
and
> I did solve it using this method. However, I am running Win2000 & Win
98SE.
> Let me know if I can be of any more assistance
> Russell
> > Thanks Russell,
> > I really appreciate you taking the time to reply.
> > I have tried a few things since posting and now have a new problem ...
not
> > entirely new but I didn't mention it before .. :-)
> > I have fiddled with the sensitivity and got the brake to calibrate in
> > Thrustmapper but now my throttle works like it is digital. I can't feed
> the
> > power on ... it just jumps to full or nothing at all !! This is really
> > frustrating. As you said mate .. it does look the part.
> > Oh well .... I 'll keep trying.
> > Rob
> > > Hi Rob,
> > > I had exactly the same problem when I bought mine about a month ago.
The
> > > Thrustmaster solution to remove the Thrustmapper software and load the
> new
> > > driver is totally unacceptable as it doesnt let you set any force
> feedback
> > > settings or run split axis. I have spoken to Thrustmaster tech support
> in
> > > Canada (I'm in the UK), and his suggestion was to remove the botton of
> the
> > > pedals and adjust the pot a bit. This did not work. I emailed their
> > support
> > > people on Jan 17th about the fact that the new driver does not give
any
> > > control over the FFB effects etc and got no reply back until Feb 6th.
> Even
> > > then it didn't actually answer my questions, instead it just gave me a
> > > returns procedure.
> > > I dxid manage to get over the brake problem by using the DXTweak
utility
> > > (from logitech). However I also could not get the wheel to work
> correctly
> > > with GPL although it was brilliant with F1 2002. Just one other thing
> that
> > I
> > > noticed was that I had a large FPS drop in F1 2002 over my old non FFB
> > wheel
> > > but I didn't know if this was to be expected or not.
> > > In view of the problems with GPL, the brake problem and annoyance at
> their
> > > technical support and driver issues I decided to take the wheel back
to
> PC
> > > World where I bought it and change it for a Logitech MOMO Force wheel.
> > > While, ergonomically, I still prefer the Thrustmaster wheel (let's
face
> > it,
> > > it does look the part), the MOMO is just so much better. My FPS has
gone
> > > back up to where they were before (which would tend to indicate that
the
> > > driver software is more efficient and not draining system resources),
> the
> > > Logitech support web site gives much more information and help (they
> give
> > > individual setup advice for just about every game available). I think
> the
> > > two wheels are comparable in build quality.
> > > It is quite possible that Thrustmaster will bring out new drivers that
> > will
> > > solve all the issues, in fact this is what I asked about in my email
to
> > > them. However, there was no mention of this in their reply and I
> couldn't
> > > wait for something that may never happen.
> > > Sorry this has been a long reply but I thought I'd give you all the
info
> > > Regards
> > > Russell
> > > > I am testing a Ferrari F1 Force Wheel and Pedals from Thrustmaster.
I
> am
> > > > running Windows XP Home and the brake does not calibrate correctly.
> The
> > > > Thrustmaster solution is to remove the Thrustmapper Software and
> > calibrate
> > > > the wheel manually. The manual drivers do not allow for a split
pedal
> > axis
> > > > so I am reduced to running a new FF wheel with single axis !! To me,
> > this
> > > is
> > > > unacceptable. Has anyone found a solution to this problem or do I
take
> > the
> > > > wheel back ??
> > > > Thanks in advance.
I believe I had similar calibration problems in my non-FF Thrustmaster
PD2 pedals (Jeez I hate auto-calibration!) due to flex in the
structure which was causing the gears to jump a tooth. Very
frustrating. I tried many things but then decided to re-wire an old
set of pedals which were very stable and responsive. The re-wiring
surprised me that the PD2 software only used about 0-30 K-ohm, so my
alternative 100 K pots were giving full throttle at only ~30% of the
travel. Very difficult to drive. Again, I tried some software, but I
was only able to change response within the 30% travel, not extend it.
So I grafted in the PD2 pots in parallel to the pots I was using and
drilled holes into the sides of the pedal base and stuck the ends of
the secondary pots through the side. Now I can manually adjust the
pedals as desired in spite of the stupid auto-calibration.
So to answer your question, I think you can add secondary pots to your
system to use for manual calibration. It should only cost a couple of
bucks to try and you can easily remove it if you're not happpy with
the result.
Hope this helps,
Ray
