Glad to be of help...
> That's it!!! :-)
> Thanks Trips! (The ever gracious and simsational Alison Hine also came to
> the rescue with the same recommendation)
> I had a pot laying around, dropped it in and wired it to pins 6 and 9 and
> BINGO, it got recognized.
> I had some wierdness when I tried calibrating it as a Thrustmaster product
> (mainly because the pedals are wired differently). But when I went to
> configure it as a three-axis with two buttons, ALL axes showed up including
> the "fake" Joystick A "Y" axis. But the steering and pedals calibrated fine,
> and I was off and running in GPL!!!
> Now, I must say, after being pretty damn competitive with a j-stick... it's
> gonna take a while. I spent some time messing with linearity and steering
> ratios and it was definitely different. I'm gonna have to reprogram myself!
> :-)
> But I can see how once I get used to it, things will be less tiring and the
> dual-axis will be much nicer in both trail braking and left-foot braking.
> Ultimately, it will be faster.... but time will tell.
> Thanks again everyone!! I was not expecting this many suggestions....
> (blush) so I really appreciate it.
> -_dave
> >Here's the answer you're looking for...
> >The CH pedals occupy axes 3 and 4, and Win95 expects a joystick to occupy
> >axes 1 and 2. When you plug your homemade wheel into the pedals, Win95 sees
> >axes 1, 3, and 4, and it will not let you calibrate unless it sees an
> axis2.
> >The Thrustmaster Nascar Pro wheels when switched to separate axes place the
> >gas pedal on axis 2 and the brake on axis 4, so Windows can recognize it as
> >a 2 axis 4 button with rudder pedals just fine.
> >There are two solutions for you... First, you can wire another pot (or just
> >a dummy 100K resistor) into your wheel connected to axis 2, then Windows
> >will see it and allow you to calibrate the wheel and pedals. The other
> >solution would be to rewire the gas pedal of your CH set to axis 2. That
> >would , however render the CH pedals useless for flight sims. Best and
> >easiest solution would be to add a 100K pot to your wheel, wired to the Y
> >axis just so Windows can see it and not think there's a missing axis.
> >Trips
> >D. Bell on VROC
> >> Ok, this is to anyone with a homemade wheel that gets Windows to
> >> recognize it:
> >> I finally built my homemade steering wheel and it's nice. But because of
> >> time constraints, I picked up some CH Pedals to use with the wheel.
> >> For the wheel, I am using a Radio Shack 100K linear-taper pot. Intially,
> >> in DOS utils like Jcenter.exe, it steered backwards (right goes left,
> >> etc). I had center lug on the pot going to pin #1, like suggested. I had
> >> the left lug (when looking down the shaft at the pot) wired to #3.
> >> That's when it was going "backwards" in the DOS utils. I switched it to
> >> the right lug and it steered as expected.
> >> (Note: all of the other wires in the J-stick cable are not connected,
> >> with the exception of #1 and #3 (steering) and Pins 2, 4 and 7 for the
> >> shifters. The remaining wires and pins are still present in the plug,
> >> but they are not connected to anything)
> >> But left lug or right lug on Pin 3, Windows 95 would not recognize it...
> >> with the exception of "Thrustmaster T2 without adapter." Then the
> >> calibrate button would come on, but it would not calibrate correctly...
> >> the pedals were not right.
> >> So how I have it setup is the pedals attatched directly into the
> >> gameport on my SB Live card. The CH Pedals have a built-in "Y" connector
> >> to plug the second wheel (or stick) into.
> >> The problem I'm having is in calibrating the wheel in Windows. With
> >> Jcenter.exe and other DOS utils, I can see all axes and they seem to
> >> work fine. Also, the shifters work fine (done like the Wally shifter
> >> design).
> >> What makes it strange, too, is that I am able to remove the wheel, put
> >> my old CH Flightstick into the "Y" and then find and calibrate it
> >> instantly and correctly as a 3-axis 2-button stick. I can then calibrate
> >> the stick and pedals correctly as split axis. It works absolutely fine
> >> in Grand Prix Legends.
> >> But my homemade wheel is what I want to use... just can't at the moment.
> >> I have tried the ProPanel, but still no luck.
> >> Any suggestions would be most appreciated.
> >> Thanks for your time and help,
> >> -_Dave Schwabe
> >> --
> >> Dave Schwabe
> >> The Aussie Toad -- Grand Prix Legends & Brabham site
> >> http://users.wi.net/~schwabe
