rec.autos.simulators

I like this wheel and pedals because I find it easy to use and somewhat
compact, however this setup isn't compatible with N4 and GPL. This setup
works with N3.

I am willing to buy a new wheel and pedals and am looking for suggestions.
$50.00 - $110.00.

Any suggestions are welcome.

Thanks,
Michael

--
-- Fran?ois Mnard <ymenard>
-- May the Downforce be with you...
-- http://www.ymenard.com/
-- People think it must be fun to be a genius, but they don't realise how
hard it is to put up with all the idiots in the world.

I'm not sorry, I haven't purchased N4 or GPL and won't. Today I went and
purchased another wheel which doesn't read properly either. Sure they are
read by the game but they aren't read properly. Turning the wheel 5 degrees
(actually) = the wheel turning 12 degrees (in the game) , obviously you
don't take your sim driving seriously and didn't notice that. This occurs in
both GPL and N4, yet not in N3. You're playing a game that doesn't read
wheels properly and didn't realize it and you're just dealing with it, I
won't spend 50 bucks to deal with something. Sorry but you're not playing
realistically.

Remember, compatible and correct are two entirely different things.

I'm sorry but there shouldn't be ANY kind of problem with GPL and N4 for
wheels, in fact the calibration routines is probably one of the best in the
simracing market.

--
-- Fran?ois Mnard <ymenard>
-- May the Downforce be with you...
-- http://www.ymenard.com/
-- People think it must be fun to be a genius, but they don't realise how
hard it is to put up with all the idiots in the world.

You obviuosly don't take your racing seriously, a blind man can see the
difference.

--
Eric

You said you are not able to make your wheel work in N4, of course without
telling us what wheel it is, or in what your problem really is.  I of course
state that N4 and GPL recognise most of the wheels and it's very easy to
calibrate and choose your controllers.

Then you say "I have not bought N4 or GPL" then ramble upon some babbling
about manufacturers and stuff like that.  You even whine about the fact that
your wheel doesn't turn as much as on screen.  Well DUH that's quite normal,
there is a big difference between how your potentiometer has maximum range
(normally 180 or 270degrees) and how a real-life Winston Cup wheel (which
doesn't have any kind of mechinical --> electrical function) acts, as it has
almost two full turns of the wheel iirc.  There is still many settings you
can change, but don't expect an equal ratio at the end.  I don't really know
ANY wheel on the market (because mostly of the potentiometer situation) that
has enough range as a real WC wheel.  It's NOT the game's fault, it's not
the wheel's fault, it's just the way it is.

Do you want us to help you or not?

LMAO who do you think you are, tough newbie?

--
-- Fran?ois Mnard <ymenard>
-- May the Downforce be with you...
-- http://www.ymenard.com/
-- People think it must be fun to be a genius, but they don't realise how
hard it is to put up with all the idiots in the world.

I do notice below, that you addressed my situation, ah, you do understand.

As you mention, it's just the way it is, unless I can find a wheel with a
realistic turning radius. I know, good luck, but I'm gonna go looking
anyway.

I really didn't think that WC wheels turned that much, obviously i was
wrong. Someone suggested that a need something other than a "cheapo" wheel.
I think they're correct. How one can drive these games when barely touching
the wheel turns the car 30% degrees is beyond me. With as much difference as
there is I can drive almost any road course without moving the wheel any
more than 15 degrees to either side, that's not realistic, nor fun. At high
speeds it is nearly physically impossible to turn the wheel more than 15
degrees, go get in your car and try it (kidding of course), yet in the game,
turning the wheel 30 at high speeds is quite possible.

Nice people don't "tear people apart", obviously you have experience in
being torn apart as evidently you are the NG expert on it, as you have just
spoken about the entire NG, I'm sure they appreciated that.

Your comments belong in the Nascar NG, go away and pester people there.

This is sim racing and this is the second post I've found from you, neither
one of which address sim racing.

You will get bashed for posting nonrelevant issues, this seems to apply to
all NG's I've noticed. Looks like you need to watch your step, clean off
your shoe now.

Good luck in that research, seriously!  You'll need to address the problem
that we use mechanical to electronic inputs, while real-life Stockcars
drivers use direct shafts.  Potentiometers that go more then 270 and have
the correct K's are quite hard to find

I know of some multi-turn types of pots, but they are very pricey and
normally don't come individually.  You would also need a suitable wheel
setup, as most of the current wheels on the market would have difficulty in
fitting the pot.  A complete redesign (I would suggest starting from
scratch).  Like I said, it's a compromise that we accept, that the game
developpers and wheel manufacturers accept as a reality also.

It's all in style, imho.  As a road course driver principally, I was teached
to never turn the wheel more the 90degree each side, as you would cross your
arms and put you in a dangerous safety situation.  So small and precise
inputs are how I drive, not the long and smooth turnings that Winston Cup
drivers do on ovals.  If you ever saw me back on the NROS when I was racing
talladega, I barely turned the wheel more then 15degrees as my wheel lock
was minimal anyway.

Force Feedback would help you then.

--
-- Fran?ois Mnard <ymenard>
-- May the Downforce be with you...
-- http://www.ymenard.com/
-- People think it must be fun to be a genius, but they don't realise how
hard it is to put up with all the idiots in the world.