rec.autos.simulators

I trashed my Suncom joystick out of frustration this weekend after
several attempts at trying to get a decent calibration.  It's now
on its way to the landfill.  Well anyway, I decided to try the "joypad"
that came packaged with the joystick.  I was finally able to drive
Watkins Glen!  I tested at other tracks and I was almost able to match
my previous times.  But I am convinced that there is a joystick out
there that can hold up to at least a few months of wear.  Who makes it ?

Please advise,

Andy Houghton

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Andy Houghton
Lebanon, NH

Try the Gravis PC Joystick. I have had very good luck with it so far.
Previously I had gone through 3 sticks in about 2 months and currently
the Gravis has held up for about 4 months thus far. It also has a
simple/strong design and a decent feel.

P.s: Its not too expensive either. I found mine (Gravis PC Joystick)
at Walmart for around $19.99.

I have a Logitech Wingman. It has lasted me oh,,,,,,,,,about a year. It is
a very comfortable joystick, and it is very well constructed. You can get
it for about $20.00 on the street.

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Kenneth
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http://www.geocities.com/MotorCity/1517/

I used to have a CH mach3 that worked great for everything including
ICR. Thought it finally ended up breaking (one of the buttons gave
out) I had it for almost two years and used it quite a lot. The mach3
is a joystick in the classic sense and not a flightstick. I didn't
bother replacing it because I have a steering wheel, thrustmaster,
gamepad and use the mouse for doom type games.

________

Eldred Pickett

I am NOT paranoid.  And why are you always watching me?!?

I've been using a CH Products FlightStick ever since NASCAR racing hit the
shelves.  It's been a pretty good stick, and it's been through more than
its' fair share of beatings.... :-)    A few months ago, I bought one of
those new Microsoft joysticks... and promptly returned it.  For now, I
guess I'll just stick (no pun intended) with my old standby until
something better comes along.

Speaking of something better.... what I would really, really like to see
is a joystick that works on the same principle as pedals.... i.e. apply
less pressure, get less "gas" ..... more pressure equals more "gas".  The
way it is now, it's either full throttle or none with the joysticks I've
tried....

Michael
"MDunkin"

says...

I have a Thrustmaster Mk 1 (the old joystick) and have had it for a couple
of years.  I'm currently using a T2 for my racing sims, but the Mk 1 is
still there as a backup.  It also does duty for flight sims.

Mike

--
    _
___/ \___ Speed Bump Motorsports...  The name says it all.
NRL95 #110 Hershey's Kiss Chevrolet Monte Carlo
PRO95 #53 Hershey's Kiss Penske PC23/Ilmor D
SIMCAR96 #45 Hershey's Kiss Pontiac Grand Prix
IVGA #2027 (membership, not the car!)

I built my own steering/pedals controls and used two slide
pots for the pedals (one for each pedal) and I wired them in
series. With two pots it meant the mechanics of each pedal
worked separately. What this does is allows braking and
accelerating at the same time BUT only in one way ...that is
...the accelerater will override the brake but not
visa-versa. If I reverse the poles on the pots then the
opposite is true... the brake overides the throttle.
BUT BUT BUT the latter method of wiring the pots is incorrect
by joystick standards because the two pedals worked back to
front in Need For Speed.... (As in the throttle braked and the
brake throttled) I checked this by setting up the controls in
the Win 95 joystick setup and it confirmed the back to front
wiring.
Remember that Nascar and Indycar allows the user to calibrate
and "CONFIGURE" the joystick wheras NFS only allows for
calibration.(Or at least the demo version I have does).
With the steering I used a rotory pot as per normal (20k) and
it works fine and dandy.
 I believe the T2 controls uses a two pot system for the
pedals as well... the only difference being that they are
rotory instead of slide pots.

Nigel of Lakewood Racing
Lakewood Computers
NZ

--
Regards,                               Disclaimer:
Scott D Fraser                         The opinions made up here are my own.
Development Engineer                   My mixed up views in no way represent
3.8L Engine Performance Development    those of my employer.

My old QuickShot worked like that. I paid 20-24 bucks for it. Used it
quite a bit on Nascar Indy1 and the ACEs flight sims never had a problem.
It has the normal two buttons on the stick as well as two more on the
front of hte base and a slider control for flight sims. I got a T2 about 2
months ago and would never want to go back to a stick. Had to change my
driving style but it was worth it.

Gene Gagne

Gary

Your joystick may be a digital rather than an anologue. The
latter offers varible control. I made my own steering/pedals
controls at home and used joystick components. I have total
control over accelerating and braking. Ripping up to 55 in the
pits and holding it there is a brease.

--
Nigel of Lakewood Racing
Lakewood Computers
New Zealand