rec.autos.simulators

Folks, tell me this ain't one of the sweetest setups you've ever run.  I
could not believe it.

If you can keep your head screwed on (at least partially) for two laps, the
car will damned near drive itself for the rest of the tank.

I'm not kidding.  This thing is SMOOOOTH!  Tire wear is excellent, and even.
Of course speeds drop off, but I was 30+ laps into a fuel run and still
running mid 38's.

On fresh tires, I'm already turning 38.2's and I haven't even really started
to practice yet nor look hard for speed.

The car balance and stability are really excellent.  I had to go and make
sure the aids hadn't gotten turned on by accident!

If you can't run this track with this setup and have a good day, you might
as well hang up the keys :)

-Larry

Well, I'd better hang up my keys!
I use a joystick, my old and faithful wheel having finally worn itself out
late last year.
Any setup which is half decent is a real bastard with a joystick because the
car is a chore to keep straight whilst anywhere other than the corners.
Which is why I prefer road courses or a non-fixed setup so that I can tweak
the basic front suspension arrangement.

Bruce.

Have you tried the Steering Linearity?
That was originally designed for joystick users.
Try a real low setting.  But also test it out online, as there will be at least some difference.

--
Tim White
www.intracmotorsports.com

If I recall, there are mid 37's to be had with that setup, in a draft around 37.1-37.2.
Yes, a bit touchy on cold tires in mid-to-T2, and although I thought it was ***on tire wear (duh :), it is one of Papy's better
Fast setups.

It won't come down low, lifting off the gas, as much as I like, so you really have to hit your marks otherwise you have to steer it
into the turns (aka wrecks :).  But what I liked about it was how controllable it was coming out to the wall in T2, T4.  Very
driveable

--
Tim White
www.intracmotorsports.com

Yes, Tim.
I've tried all the little adjustments available in the Controller setup.
I reckon that I'll have to bite the bullet and buy a new wheel.
The last one was the Advantage 1 - built like a brick xxxxhouse and which
lasted me well over four years.
Any suggestions for a new one - best value for money?

Bruce.

least some difference.

You'll have to ask around bud.  I use an ECCI so I'm not the best source on good but inexpensive wheels.
I wouldn't get too hung up on what wheel might best for anyone.  I've seen some really fast guys use a $50 plastic wheel.

--
Tim White
www.intracmotorsports.com

Thanks, Tim.
Yep, I know what you mean - what suits one may not suit all, that's for
sure.

I just tried about a dozen or so laps with the steering assistance turned
right up to 100%.
Made a world of difference to the directional stability on the back straight
and I was able to run mid-38 sec laps without having to white-knuckle the
joystick! :)
(And this J/S is >OLD<, very old. About 1995 vintage, I think. It's an
original Gravis Analogue and because it can be held in the left hand, as
compared to the large J/S's available these days, I am loathe to part with
it.)

Bruce.

on good but inexpensive wheels.
some really fast guys use a $50 plastic wheel.

    Bruce, I have tried almost every wheel on the market and I would suggest
the best bang for the buck would be the MS Sidewinder Precision Racing
Wheel(non FF). It is inexpensive and with its fibre optic pots is precise
and
they shouldn't wear out.

    Pete

I believe the non FF wheel uses a standard pot.
Only the FF wheel has optical steering sensor, AFAIK
--

Ian P
<email invalid due to spammers>

writes:

Maybe I'll skip this race, too...<g>

Eldred
--
Homepage - http://www.umich.edu/~epickett
GPLRank:-1.950
MonsterRank: +305.145
N2002 Rank:+17.59

Never argue with an idiot.  He brings you down to his level, then beats you
with experience...
Remove SPAM-OFF to reply.

Yeah, but you tend to like your setups a bit loose anyway, Tim :)

Larry

was ***on tire wear (duh :), it is one of Papy's better
really have to hit your marks otherwise you have to steer it
controllable it was coming out to the wall in T2, T4.  Very

Wow, are we talking the same setup here.

The thing pushes like a *** for me. After 10 laps the tyres are shot and
I'm struggling to stay in the 40's. This compares with the 37's That I can
run with my own setup!! The price we pay for fixed setup racing I guess -
One man's medicine is another man's poison...

MS

    The wheels are almost identical except for the FF. I don't have
my manual in front of me but non FF uses the same optical pots.
    The pots on this wheel when I calibrate them are the most stable
of all the wheels I own including my ECCI and TSW.

    Pete

Thanks, chaps.
Advice taken on board. I'll see if the bank account will support a purchase
over the weekend.

Bruce

Have you looked inside the wheels ?
I took apart my MSFF wheel quite some time ago because it was squeaking,
it's optical but it doesn't use a "pot" in the usual sense of a pot.
It uses an optical sensor, which reads a rotating disk with holes in it.
This is attached to a shaft between the FF motor and the steering wheel cog.
You can feel (and hear) the cogs when you turn the wheel.
The non FF wheel doesn't feel as though it uses gearing of any description
to turn a "pot" so I doubt it is exactly the same as the FF wheel or even
that it uses optical at all.
I've stripped the pedals in both wheels and they both use regular analogue
pots for sure.
BTW, the manuals don't mention anything about the type of pots used.

I no longer have the MSFF  wheel, gave it to a friend, but I do still have
the MSPW in the loft in the garage. If I get a chance over the weekend I'll
drag it down and rip it apart to satisfy my curiosity ;)

--

Ian P
<email invalid due to spammers>