rec.autos.simulators

Does anyone have any comment on the CH Pedals? Quality and suitability
for GPL? Strength of the brake pedal spring?

Thanks. How about the brake pedal strength?

And you had to rewire them?? Can't you run them straight into the back
of the PC?

It works like an Y-joystick.  If you already have a wheel into your joystick
midi port, it's easy as 1-2-3.  If your using a joystick in your USB port,
you can always buy a cheap 5$ joystick/gamepad and plug the CH pedals as
"Joystick 2" in your gameport.

--
-- Fran?ois Mnard <ymenard>
-- May the Downforce be with you...
-- http://www.ymenard.com/
-- People think it must be fun to be a genius, but they don't realise how
hard it is to put up with all the idiots in the world.

Or is it a case of having to put something behind the pedals to
recreate the sense of pushing against something.

I have a real problem with braking in GPL, that is the major area I am
losing out in. I guess what I am saying is - will I need to mod the
pedals for GPL?

No, pedals almost have no resistance, and you will have to put something
behind to give you resistance. But a lot of people including me end up not
doing that because they are so precise, you basicaly don't need it. But it
is a matter of personal preferance.

Yup!

Yes you might need to. But first allow your self A LOT of time getting used,
because pedals are not push dow, they are swivel action, unlike cars. Takes
a lot of getting used too, but once you do, you can be even more precise. I
wes VERY frustrated at first. took me about a month to get used to them! Se
beware and DON'T give up. It's a great solution (but it will not make you
faster than Gregger:)

Domi

I might be able to brake AND turn in then!

Maybe a piece of foam behind the pedal? Damn! Does NOONE make some
pedals that behave like the real thing!!??? :P

Several people in this NG have put a squash ball behind the brake pedal.
Check out dejanews.com, you'll find some info there.

Still, I don't see why it's necessary.  It's not because it's like that in
reality that it's an advantage.  I find that I have much more performance on
track when I have no resistance in the pedals. Considering that you have a
heel support and a pivot action, you can easily control your pedal input and
stay anywhere between 0 and 100% without any effort.

--
-- Fran?ois Mnard <ymenard>
-- May the Downforce be with you...
-- http://www.ymenard.com/
-- People think it must be fun to be a genius, but they don't realise how
hard it is to put up with all the idiots in the world.

I mounted a wedge shaped block of wood behind the brake pedal and stuck a
short coil spring between the wood and the pedal base to increase the pedal
resistance a bit.

You *can* run the pedals straight into your game port if your wheel is in
your USB port, but this will only work in games that support 2 controllers.
It's best to rewire the pedals.

--
don

GPL Programs for the Converted Tracks:
http://www.ianparker.co.uk/gpl/bapom/

Thanks for the info Don,

That sounds a bit complicated. I wouldn't have the first idea how to
achieve that with my Act Labs RS Wheel.

It's really just a simple matter of pulling the connectors off of the
act-labs pedal pots and attaching them to the CH pedal pots. Just make a
diagram of where the wires go before pulling anything apart. Check out
Alison's GPL site for a How To on this subject in the section titled,
Help/Controllers/Readers Reports. It's in Steve Blankenship's report on the
Logitech Wingman under "Mods". This info should apply to your pedals as
well.  http://alison.simracing.com/gpl/

--
don

GPL Programs for the Converted Tracks:
http://www.ianparker.co.uk/gpl/bapom/

I use a squashball Ymenard. It gives me a more stable braking, it's
easier to notice how far the pedal is pressed with some resistance
behind the pedal..

Though I agree, it's not necessary. Sometimes during a race the
sqashball gets loose and often I only notice this after the race :)

Andre

Watch this space...........

And as I couldn't get used to the standard pivot action of the pedals I
rotated them 180 degrees and mounted them vertically on a specially made
support (like in my real-life car). Then I rewired the pedals on my LWFF
using the info on Alison Hine's web pages (thanks Alison! But in this case
remember to change the brake lines for the throttle lines and vice versa!).

For me it's a lot better now, but I'm still looking for a way of increasing
the resistance: I'm always locking brakes, and that's where I'm losing most
of the time...

On the original LWFF pedals I used a the plastic 'cap' of a badminton
shuttle, but that doesn't work here. Still thinking...

Regards,

Bert

Did you try the squashball solution? Works nice here..

Andre