What's the difference between chassises? Do the engines have different
performances (peak revs etc)? What about tires, from what I've read
from rec.autos.sport.nascar, I'd quess Hoosier tires give better grip
but do they wear out more quickly?
Pasi.
Oops, surprisingly the tire question was answered in subsection
"Tyres";-) That's after re-reading the european manual. The chassis
differences are still bit unclear.
And one more confusing thing. Indycar manual says "underinflated tires
tend to get more hot", Nascar manual says "over inflate a tire and it'll
get too hot". Which one to believe?
And some comments:
- The manual is too compressed version of the original (176? pages to
18), but it looks like *** has chosen to produce multilingual
versions of the games they distribute. Maybe they just don't believe
Nascar would sell well in Europe. So one version is cheaper than n+1
versions in ICR style. I understand that, but if they want to keep
their customers these kind of stunts are bit too risky. Wasn't ***
selected as a "game publisher of the year" by one magazine? On what
grounds, "largest amount of advertising space bought";-)
- The wide angle mirrors are a great thing, finally a racing simulator
where I can see what's happening on the sides.
- AI looks good, these drivers actually seem to watch on their sides
when they choose driving lines.
Pasi.
I'm not sure myself, but I'll ask on the Papyrus BBS. Personally, I didn't
find much difference between Chevy and Ford, but Pontiac seems to be
slower.
Must be a misprint in your NASCAR manual, because under-inflating causes
higher temps (within reason) and overinflating causes lower temps (less
contact patch).
That sucks. The English/American manual is very good.
+=================================================================+
| Robert Berryhill - Scarecrow from Wizard of Oz|
| Plano, Tx or was that Congress? |
+=================================================================+
Also, I found a neato `cheat' which I haven't seen mentioned yet; on
the warmup lap (but NOT after a yellow flag), you can duck across to
the line of cars adjacent to your grid position, and slot in behind the
pace car. The message tell you to stay behind number XX, so you can
slow down until he goes past, now on the opposite side of the track.
Everyone else bunches up behind you, thus moving you halfway up the
field. This is most useful if you qualify on the right of the field,
so that you are now on the inside line into the corner. At Talladega
(which is where I've been experimenting) this *** little technique
allows you to get a big jump start on everyone.
-- Gizmo
--
-- -- -- -- -- -- -- -- -- -- -- -- -- -- -- -- -- -- -- -- -- -- -- --
Launchpad is an experimental internet BBS. The views of its users do not
necessarily represent those of UNC-Chapel Hill, OIT, or the SysOps.
-- -- -- -- -- -- -- -- -- -- -- -- -- -- -- -- -- -- -- -- -- -- -- --
I'm looking into buying the CD version of the NASCAR simulation even thought I
do not have a "permanent" CD-ROM drive. The speed of my computer will allow
me to play only the low-res. version; however, I plan to replace my computer
in the near future. My new computer will have a fixed CD-ROM drive and will
be fast enough to run the hi-res. version, so I don't want to buy the
simulation twice.
I am also looking at a steering wheel and pedal set that costs $150. This
sounds like a lot but the salesman says the extra cost is justified because it
comes with the Indycar simulation. Any suggestions?
Thanks!
You can install the WHOLE thing onto your hard drive, if you have the
space.
--
**************************** Michael E. Carver *************************
Upside out, or inside down...False alarm the only game in town.
=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=<[ /./. [- < ]>=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=
Yes. That's what I had to do, for high res., since I don't have a CD Rom.
High res. is enabled with an -h switch, not separate installations.
It takes 5 floppies, for a zip backup.
: I am also looking at a steering wheel and pedal set that costs $150. This
:sounds like a lot but the salesman says the extra cost is justified because it
: comes with the Indycar simulation. Any suggestions?
Not bad-I didn't find them packaged together. The CD-Rom cost me $52 and
$40 for an IBM flight yolk/steering wheel. I can always get rudder
pedals, but wont have the stick shift.
Bob/NYC
--
American Presidents, who jog-don't get re-elected: Carter/Bush/Clinton?
Roosevelt 4 terms, Reagan/Nixon/Ike/Truman 2 terms.
I rest my case!
Yes, the CD allows you to load both the high-res and low-res versions onto
your hard drive (despite what it says in the instalation manual). After that,
you don't need the CD rom to be in the drive.
-Steve
***************************************************************************
***************************************************************************
I assume you're talking about the Thrustmaster T1? I've heard mentions here
of people buying the T1 by itself for $110... I don't know, though - I've
got a Simulation Systems ACP on order, it looks like a much higher quality
unit (but of course costs a bit more too - $180....)
_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_
I have and like the Auto Racing***pit from Simulation Systems. It is
metal and is freestanding. It is set up like a Mclaren F1 with the gear
shift on the underside of the steering wheel. This unit retails for $180.
IHMO it is worth it.
Let me know if you want further information.
Jack
: I am also looking at a steering wheel and pedal set that costs $150. This
: sounds like a lot but the salesman says the extra cost is justified because it
: comes with the Indycar simulation. Any suggestions?
: Thanks!
--
(Moderators for "rec.autos.sport.info")
Homepage http://www.racesimcentral.net/:81/users/indy500/index.html
Barkley...
I have a T1. It works pretty well, but maybe I'm just harder on it than other
folks. I've already broken two pedal tensioner springs - nothing new, lots of
of them break. Thrustmaster replaced them *pronto* (I emailed on Sunday,
they arrived on Wednesday). But I'm now having a bit of problem with the
wheel getting some extra play in it - nothing serious yet, but this wheel
is just 4 months old. I'm also having a bit of trouble with the shifter.
Occasionally it will shift TWICE - this is a disaster if you are in 5th
and meaning to hit 4th, but instead you get 3rd which is 2500 rpms down...
(Engine goes BANG in a hurry!) I'm very sure that Thrustmaster will replace
whatever bits are wrong, but it's an aggravation to me that I don't need from
my toys...
So how much are these ACPs? I see it retails for $180, but do they mail
order places carry them? (ie Chips&Bits maybe?)
--
Brian Wong Product Marketing Engineering
415-336-0082 Palo Alto, CA 94303
Why not just order one direct from Simulation Systems? That way you
get the $180 price (well, plus $15 S+H....). On the advice of
Mr. Durbin and others I placed an order for mine a couple of weeks
ago. It appears to me to be a much higher quality unit than the T1,
and I really like the looks of the shifting mechanism better than that
of the T1. Mine should be here any day now - I can't wait, I'm tired
of playing my favorite games (ICR, NASCAR, and WC of course ;-) ) with
a joystick! Simulation Systems' number is: 1-800-647-7623
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I had trouble with my T1 steering wheel... at first I thought it was cuz
I had a newer/faster computer and needed to upgrade my game card. But
before I rushed out to spend money, I opened the cover of the T1
steering wheel and sprayed some tuner/switch cleaner on the pot's
contacts. Worked like a charm!!! Now have good clean/tight steering
again. As for the foot pedal springs. But a block of wood behind the
pedals to shorten the travel distance. It's sorta like Spinal Tap, if
you have "11" you will always need to crank it to "11" -- so just take
away a few notches and only crank it to "9"!!!!
--
**************************** Michael E. Carver *************************
Upside out, or inside down...False alarm the only game in town.
=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=<[ /./. [- < ]>=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=
I *did* limit the travel on the pdeals. I put a "3/4" inch block of wood
on the "front porch", which is what others have done. I even put a brass
strip on the top of it to prevent me from mashing the pedal INTO the wood.
It still broke. Fortunately I have a lot of replacement springs now :-(
Note that doing this doesn't make you go slower, since you recalibrate
with the new limits.
--
Brian Wong Product Marketing Engineering
415-336-0082 Palo Alto, CA 94303
