rec.autos.simulators

The grittyness you feel is indeed the cables inside the wheel, it does seem
a bit strange at first, but I don't even notice it anymore. It did feel much
better to me than the Microsoft wheel, which uses gears instead of cables, I
could feel the slop in the gears which drove me nuts!

The wiring switch is very easy, and if you prepare your tools, it shouldn't
take much more than 30 minutes to do the job and be back on the track. This
is what I did for my CH (non-pro) pedals. I removed the wiring harness from
the Logitech pedals after making a diagram of which colored wire attached to
which point on the pots. In order to use this harness with the CH pedals, I
had to make extensions for each wire so as to leave the Logitech harness in
it's original configuration, I might want to restore it some day. I made 6
extensions approx 6 inches long with a male connector on one end and a
female connector on the other. I also had to cut some little channels into
the CH pedal base for the wires to pass through without getting crimped
inside the base. Attach the extensions to the wiring harness on one end, and
the pots on the other, seal up the wires and you're just about ready to
race. The only other thing you need to deal with is the power cable. I went
the simple route, plugged the power cable in and stuffed the whole works
into the pedal base so, at this time I cannot unplug the pedals. A more
elegant solution would be to simply cut a hole for the plug and attach it in
place with Hot Glue or maybe silicone so you could remove it if necessary.

One item of note, when attaching the wires to the brake pot on the CH
pedals, they must be wired in reverse order from the Logitech pot because
the CH pot travels in the reverse direction. This may differ in other pedal
sets, so don't seal up the base until you've tested the pedals.

If you've tired of the short throw of the Wingman pedals, give the CH pedals
a try. I'm finding it much easier to control wheelspin and lockups with
these pedals and as a result, my laptimes are slowly improving again.

don

Note: the LWFF wheel cable setup is pretty neat and *very* strong, it doesn't
look like slack will be a problem. (I took my new wheel apart only hours after
purchasing it to see how it worked, dismantling it all the way down to parts,
a pain to put back together but I just had to know how it worked :-)

Seeyas on the track.

--John (Joao) Silva

1) It would save space underneath your desk (wont have 2 sets of

   pedals under there)

2) The setup would work in games other than GPL

Dont do it! It would be woth screwing up your warranty!

Thats my deal, if I wired them up together I wouldnt be able to use
them with my flight sims.

As for the warrenty problem, that's why I leave the original wiring harness
intact. The pedals can be restored to new in less than 15 minutes. I wonder
what Logitech would charge for the wiring harness alone?

motor racing is life condensed around a moment...choose your moment

I'm not crazy about the Logitech pedals, but I have a couple of
issues...

First, I just got my wheel, and it has 11 months worth of warranty
left.

The other thing is that I want to use the CH pedals for other stuff
-namely Mechwarrior 3 and Heavy Gear 2. I want to use the pedals for
chassis control, but I *don't* want to be connecting stuff together
then find out I'm stuck using the wheel to steer the torso. :-)

Thanks!
Tim