Nafi
Doesn't this just lockup the backs first?
Doug
You might try this. When calibrating your pedals, after setting full travel
for them, hold down on the brake pedal slightly before clicking on "ok" to save
the settings. There's a reading above the bar that goes from 0.0 to 1.0 as you
move the pedal. Hold the brake down to about .2 - .3 while you click "ok".
This will keep the brake from being actuated at first touch, and may help you
compensate for the long pedal travel in some controllers. Experiment till you
find a setting you like. This assumes you have your pedals on separate axes,
but you can probably do the same without.
Steve B.
>I've had a lot of probs with my CH Pro Pedals locking, at least with the
>trainer cars. The prob as I see it with the CH's is the very limited travel
>range. I have to be very precise otherwise it goes into lockup. My solution?
>I've dialed back the brake balance to about 52% forward. Which may be
>detrimental in reducing overall braking capability, but it gets the job done.
As for locking up the brakes: you have to un-learn braking techniques
from ICR2 or GP2. In those ground effect cars, you can slam on the
brakes at high speed, and the downforce will keep the wheels from
locking until you're very slow.
A wingless car will lock its brakes at any speed, high or low. If you
brake hard at top speed or immediately after accelerating, there will
be even less weight on the front wheels, so they'll lock even earlier.
You have to brake a little to transfer weight to the front wheels,
then brake harder until your front wheels are about to lock. In
theory, that is. :) I can't do it consistently myself, but I'm getting
better.
--
Wolfgang Preiss \ E-mail copies of replies to this posting are welcome.
It should. But I do know I have better control, ie less propensity to lock
anywhere. But admittedly, it probably is not the best way to do it. As
witnessed by my lap times (1:54's at Monza with Trainer), I have to work on my
technique.