rec.autos.simulators

I imagine uploading controller.ini files so that it is possible to
search up good configs for any given game/controller combo, or even
single variable mean values, and maybe even info on practical button
mappings for a given game. It could all be pulled out of controller.ini,
and it shouldn't be that difficult to make import routines for any game
setup text based file format...

When you have a ton of different settings, it'd be nice to be able to
see what everyone else uses, and how people have set things up.

So, guys, what do you say? Is this something we need?

If I get a firm response to this, I may start creating that database.

---A---

And don't forget there's an ini at the mod level that links the ratio
of your wheel range to the mod, I forget what it's called but I've got
it somewhere.

It took me about 2 weeks to get mine mostly where I want it, but it
still feels a bit removed from the road wheels on the straights.

Great Idear A N,

My thing is too many people fail to get the basic "control panel" (or in
this case, profiler settings) basically setup so that your games will have
even half a chance to emulate FF forces...

I came to the G25 from the Microsoft FF wheels...  Many many people I had
helped in the past had the centering spring checked on and many had it at
HIGH, well this negated the feedback from games, I found out.  once everyone
set centering to off, games were good.

I setup my wheel after reading all this time and time again over the years,
of posts about how to properly set up a momo wheel.  Tips like:
Setting return to center spring to 0 or 1, yet check the box that enables
it.
I also followed the dampening to 20%  for starters, {as with my Sidewinder I
didn't specifically have this "adjustment"} that did get me a balpark
setting I could play with.

Plus, I set my wheel only to operate at 360 degrees, because my reaction
time was soo slow (trying to turn the wheel opposite lock {to recover an
oversteer condition, --- when set at what 720 or 900 degrees, was what 2
whole turns just back to center?  lol.

all the above this, was the settings before I even went into rFactor.

*** my bad*** if I was at home I could have put these in order of the
Logitech profiler config screen the software uses...  But I
cant recall now.

In rFactor, I set my sensitivity to 100%.  & Speed sensitivity down to 3%
(some cushion just so I dont do tank slappers at 200 mph so easily).  now
the tires can turn full lock even when going over 90 mph...  can help you
recover a loose condition on dirt racing tracks, you know...

Then in the game I found I like the FF set to FULL, and then inside the
game, after I set most of the pedals and buttons I like to use, I had to go
in and set the feedback forces set to -150% because my wheel was giving me
opposite feedback from same setups I had been using with my Sidewinder (not
centering on camber/castor forces applied from chassis).  In other words my
wheel would do opposite of trying to center, but instead loved to be
anywhere but near the center, be it full right or full left...  I remark it
was as if they had put a pretty strong magent on the wheel and the base,
both facing the same "poles" right at each other, when centered...

I feel if I set the wheel to operate with more turns than 360 I cannot
recover those instances of oversteer, because you cannot turn the wheel fast
enough to change the direction of the steering, physically.  you only have a
few hundredths of a second to turn right and catch a stock car, I assume
less in an F1 type car.

but I run totally AIDS free, even clutch help or auto is off.

Cheers, uwe

--
GPG Fingerprint:  2E 13 20 22 9A 3F 63 7F  67 6F E9 B1 A8 36 A4 61

I was also thinking that this should be done over a wide range of
controllers because this is so easily accomplished db modelwise. The
site would contain one wiki section for each controller, and one
subsection for each game. I think the main structure should be like that
because the focus should be on controller, not on game. I *would* think
that certain setup aspects would be the same across a wide range of
different games.

I know one thing about this content: It is near impossible to get useful
information from a high-volume forum like rsc, you have to read through
18 pages of greetings before you strike gold and find that single line
which sets things in place for you, hehe.

---A---

---A---

I would say that generally you need to set the max lock to about the
same lock the simulated car would have. A formula car will have 360, but
any sports car will have more, I'd guess from 450 to 540. I am currently
using 450 when racing Megane, and this seems to be about right when I
compare the wheel lock to RL megane.

I don't want speed sensitivity at all since it ruins judgment of wheel
position in relation to steering wheel position. I'd rather go up on the
max lock so that the steering wheel carries enough accuracy to cope with
big speeds.

BTW, the in-game lock setting affects the FFB tremendously, and I am
generally using the max lock so that my wheel gets the most accurate
response.

All this is info that should be present at this website I'm talking
about, in some form.

---A---

I think that with the steering sensitivity in rFactor a setting of 50%
represents a linear relationship between the user's steering wheel and
the in-game steering wheel.  At 100% the center range of the steering
is overly sensitive - you'll get more movement in the in-game wheel
than in the user's wheel.  You can turn on the in-game steering wheel
rotation to verify this.

Pat Dotson

The steering wheel you see on a car in rFactor is set at 270 degrees by
default in your controller file under "Steering wheel range". If I made a
replay using 900 degrees
steering rotations with my DFP or G25 and was *** the wheel all over
the place,
you'd still see very little movement in the replay on your computer. Change
the "Steering wheel range" in your controller file to match your DFP/G25 and
the wheel on the car will mirror your controller.

--
David G Fisher

For a DFP or G25:

Logitech Profiler software:

Overall strength 100% or higher

Spring and Damper Effect Strength 0%

Centering Spring Off and 0%

In game settings:

X, Y, and Z Sensitivity 50%

Speed Sensitivity 3% or less

Degree of rotation is your choice. Less for open wheel cars, higher for tin
tops.

Sterring lock is a key garage setting.

I just use the DFP or G25 profile provided with the sim. No need to fiddle
with the files.

--
David G Fisher

Not specifically G25 really but a way of tying the ratio to the mod.

There's where you're getting into a matter of taste, to me those two
settings make the wheel feel like an Cadillac Eldorado with the front
wheels jacked off the ground.  There's no simulated "road feel" or
resistance to turning the wheel.

To my knowledge, the control panel settings affect the games, but it
seems to me that the control panel damper and spring effects just add
resistance and inertia to the wheel, and no feel and feedback from the
game whatsoever.

I have noted ONE thing about the control panel settings: The
self-centering spring setting affects your game irrespectible of the
check box status!

I have also noted that no spring or damper force causes your wheel to be
overly light in the pit, where it should be quite heavy due to the
nature of *** against tarmac. I have tried to change the rFactor
settings so that there is a distinct resistance felt at stand-still, but
the problem with this is that it seems to affect the entire range of FFB
so that I feel the same resistance at any speed. So I ended up accepting
a little inconsistency at stand-still to get more realistic feel at
racing speed...

It would be very nice to have a thorough explanation of alle the rFactor
settings from ISI themselves, so that our educated guesses would have a
slightly larger chance of striking home.

---A---

--
David G Fisher

It's really not much of a mystery what works and what doesn't IMO.

--
David G Fisher