This question is for you RASF1 guys. What level of the aids like traction
control are you guys running if any? I don't want to learn any bad habits in
cause I ever give someone a run for last place. Oh yeah what year cars do
you run or doesn't it matter for online?
MadDAWG
I usually turn off all aids but leave traction control on low, and since I
don't have 3 pedals I leave clutch aid on. I find the traction control on
low is the most realistic feeling for F1 cars and I think most other aids
just gives you bad habbits. For example bumping up stability control and
spin recovery to high lets you take corners in ways that would be
impossible without those aids. To gain driving skills I find its better to
turn off most aids and practice that way. Then you'll know how to drive a
smooth line around the track without magic physics holding the car in
place.
Most people on F1RST (online game search tool) run the 2002 cars.
--
josh boudreau
josh at kfoo dot net
> > This question is for you RASF1 guys. What level of the aids like
> > traction control are you guys running if any? I don't want to learn
> > any bad habits in cause I ever give someone a run for last place. Oh
> > yeah what year cars do you run or doesn't it matter for online?
> I usually turn off all aids but leave traction control on low, and since I
> don't have 3 pedals I leave clutch aid on. I find the traction control on
> low is the most realistic feeling for F1 cars and I think most other aids
> just gives you bad habbits. For example bumping up stability control and
> spin recovery to high lets you take corners in ways that would be
> impossible without those aids. To gain driving skills I find its better to
> turn off most aids and practice that way. Then you'll know how to drive a
> smooth line around the track without magic physics holding the car in
> place.
> Most people on F1RST (online game search tool) run the 2002 cars.
> --
> josh boudreau
> josh at kfoo dot net
MadDAWG
--------
The main problem with the ISI game is that all the important options are
hidden, so here I'll try to put all the ones i can remember. If you have
different/better tips please add them.
Everything is just based on my settings for the game.
I'll start with controls:
I have all the axes set to 50% sensitivity and 0% dead zone.
Make sure you turn off speed sensitivity in the digital controller rates
screen. Set it to 0%.
I use a button on my wheel for clutch and have it set to 10% sensitivity. (I
cant decide what is best)
The rest is in the /Save/yourname/yourname.PLR file
Look at the red bars in the control screen that show your gas and brake. If
either one doesnt rise until you press that pedal down halfway, then you
need to adjust the centering value since it gets confused with the dual axis
pedals.
Near the bottom of the PLR:
Axis [00, 00] Dead Zone="0.00000" // Controller 1 X
Axis [00, 00] Sensitivity="0.50472"
Axis [00, 00] Center="0.50000" // 0.0=min, 0.5=center, 1.0=max (use to
correct centering or split-axis issues)
Find the one that is the axis that is not getting full travel, and change
the Center value to either 1 or 0. For me, i set the Y axis (gas pedal) to
1.
I think thats it for the controls, now the other stuff
No AI Control="1" This way you can still drive after finishing a race
Half Rate="0" full physics
Tire Sampling="1" Better handling over curbs
Telemetry In Race="0" Frees up some CPU during races
Traction Control="3.00000" louder tc
Self In Rearview="1" // Show rear wing and rear wheels in rearview
Moving Steering Wheel="0" For some reason(no one knows why) it seems this
give more responsive controls
LCD Display Modes="5" this gets rid of the driver aids screen and adds
engine and brake temps
Crash Recovery="0" // Artificially keep cars on track or flip cars upright
Mimic Steering="0" Stops your wheel from moving when watching other cars
FFB rumble strip pull factor= Reduce this number to your taste, so the
curbs dont suck you in like a black hole
-----------
David G Fisher
I'd forgotten some of those...thanks DGF.
Thanks
MadDAWG
