rec.autos.simulators

Another option is to buy a power filter instead of UPS - they are normally
cheaper, but with what you've been quoted, a small UPS can't go wrong.

Er.. I just noticed something - the special says battery backup, not UPS???
Be careful. If its a battery backup and not a UPS, then it normally runs is
bypass mode (no filtering). In that case, it'll take a quite a few
milliseconds to switch, and mightn't solve your problem.

I suspect there may be a problem with your PC's power supply. They have
quite big capacitors in them, and should be able to handle minor surge or
disruption for a few hundred milliseconds or so.

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Yes John, but his problem is not really power outtage, but rather supply
noise, so anything that can power his DSL modem would theoritically be
sufficient (and 500W should suffice for 350W PC + small monitor + modem).

That's why I originally suggested a noise suppressor, but it would seem by
Fred's reaction those are even more uncommon in the US than they are here.
Using the line voltage to charge the bateries and converting this voltage
(12Vdc) back to line voltage (110Vac) as in an UPS is, theorethically, a
sure way to kill all transients on it, so that should work too. And there's
the added bonus of being able to survive a small power cut.

As with anything power related (supplies, cars, audio amplifiers, ... ),
though, the more overhead the better, no question.

Jan.
=---

Watch MicroCenter's circulars (if there is a store near you).  Every now and
then, they get a little crazy and put the APC BackUPS Pro 1100 on sale for
$149 out the door.  It's a $350+ UPS.

I tend to go a little overboard on UPS's, but I firmly believe that a well
fed computer is a happy computer :)

My File Server has a BackUPS Pro 1100 on it.

My Terminal Server has a BackUPS Pro 1100 on it.

My main desktop has a BackUPS Pro 1100 on it.

My G4 iMac has a BackUPS Pro 500 on it.

My Network Equipment (Router, Cable Modem, Wireless Access Point) has it's
own BackUPS Pro 500.

With the exception of the Laser Printer (you never put those on a UPS) and
the Klipsch ProMedia 5.1's, my entire house full of equipment can stay up
for about 45 minutes during a power failure.

The main desktop may be less because 22" monitors suck serious juice.

-Larry

-Larry

But a line _conditioner_ will as long as it has brownout protection
included.

I suspect we're talking about the same thing, though.

-Larry

Eldred
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But those are still realitively cheap.  I have a ***Power 900AVR model
which works really well for me.  I believe it was only $129 about 3 years
ago.  Belkin also makes a very good model, I believe it is around the same
price.

http://www.racesimcentral.net/
6&pcount=&Product_Id=21082&Section.Section_Path=%2FRoot%2FPowerProtection%2F
UPSDesktopUsage%2F

Glen Pittman

It's not a power loss issue (that would reset the entire PC)... the AC is an
inductive load on the mains and, as such, creates "spikes" on same when it's
turned off. These transients apparently travel across the DSL modem's power
supply and trip up the electronics inside.

See also http://www.intetron.com/technobabble.htm

That said, indeed seeing as this is not about surviving an outage per se, he
doesn't need an "oversized" system. He does need a "true" UPS, not a
standby/bypass model though.

Jan.
=---

 Be a bit careful with some UPS's if it will be in a bedroom or other
quiet place. I bought an APC Pro700 a few months ago to replace my ancient
400. I found out the hard way that:
1: It's never truly off. It's always charging the battery.
2: When it starts charging, some circuitry would 'chirp'. It was not the
little piezo speaker, as I actually REMOVED it and it still chirped!

  Too bad, as I bought it because it has true sine-wave output. That made
it safe to run non-computer equipment. I ended up returning it and just
buying a new battery for the old one.

  Just be aware that UPS's are NOT rated in watts, but in amp-hours (AH).
I think APC (www.apcc.com) has a form you can fill out to get a rough idea
of what size you need.

  I'm partial to APC because they work reliably. At work, every non-APC
UPS we've bought has had problems. The only minor problem with the APC's
at work is that some have a 'PnP' version of their connection cable (part
number ends in 95A). Most of their software is designed for the regular
cable (ends in 102?). When the software starts up and is configured for
the wrong cable, the front light goes off. When the UPS tries to go on
battery, it shuts down instead! Win2K's built-in UPS only works properly
with the regular cable.

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  A good UPS, even a standby one, should have filtering and surge
protection built-in. Some of the APC's have a sensitivity button on the
back. Different level set at what point it will switch to battery. At it's
most sensitive, even a half-wave missing will cause a switchover.

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  OOPS. I just checked my records, and it was a Smart UPS 700NET, not a
Pro 700.

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