rec.autos.simulators

Nick

Soft suspension and loadsa downforce helps too (if you know it's going to be
tipping down, that is). Corner speeds are very low, so you don't have to
worry about hitting the bump stops.

Good luck,

Jan.
=---
Careful with that axe, Nick wrote...

Regards,
Matt

I presume you have an anologue acceleration device (pedals, joystick etc)?
In which case you just need to put the power down more gently.  If I
remember correctly, in the wet, you shouldn't get the throttle all the way
down until half way through 3rd gear (without driving aids).  Also make sure
you notice the difference between fully wet track, which is reflective and
extremely slippy, and just slightly wet track, which isn't reflective, and
has way more grip.

-Pav

It might sound a bit obvious, but I've found that I'm quite
reasonable in the wet at tracks I have lots of experience at, but
at other tracks my wet races last about 2 laps :)

As Jan said, heaps of downforce, softer setup and different lines
help a lot.

Cheers
-Nick

MarkT

I'm getting much better this way, also turning very early and sort of
letting it slide is great as it gives you a lot of speed but do not
accelerate, just let it roll around a corner.

Intermediate conditions are superb fun, you just drive like you do in the
dry only more aggressive because you et some mean slides due to dampness but
are able to re-control the car easily since it's not very wet.

Big secret is the wheel. slow right down and turn it only a small radius.
If you turn it a large radius then you sort of putt he wheels sideways and
the car pushes forward (it does this in the dry too if you go to max lock
(like it does in real life) due to all these ackerman steering effects and
whatever else. Keeping the radius small means the tyres will me in maximum
contact and traction with the ground making it way easier to turn than going
full lock (which is what most tend to do when a small radius isn't working,
but if it's not you're just too fast.)
A much larger radius around the corner is needed you, (ever drive GP500?
Like that!!) since you'll be drifting whether you feel it much or not.

As everything it takes practice but these few guidelines saved me seconds
the first time I combined them all (as opposed to the hit and miss method I
started with).

difference?

The diffeence in GP3 is that since traction control was not leagal in 1998
this is jsut an "aid" for newbies. It gives you the effect of traction
control as in no wheel spin but the car is marginally slower to gain speed
to encouraeg you to learn not to use the aid to go faster.

In real life, TC minimises wheelspin while maximising acceleration so it's
different in that sence.

With the intro of TC to ral F1 now, no sim will ever be credited as great
now as modeeling TC will make games much easier, to control at least. So
this "harder means better" attitude may rule for some time in RAS :-)

Tyre:
If its just trickling down then leave on the soft dry tires and get a slide!
If it's drizzly, put on soft wets and any bit heavy at all use monsoons.

Doesn't sound right but I've had best experience with this. Hard wets are
for in-between intermediate and full wet but theres never a real use for
them beyond 2-3 laps so theres no point using them. When it is any bit wet
monsoons seem to give an extra bite over soft wets, it doesn't have to be
monsoon conditions (remember, tyres depend on the state of the track, not
the weather!

I don't narrower lines help (taking middle of track), that's used in real
life as the regular route has *** laid down which is uncontrollable to
drive over in wet, but that's not modelled in GP3 so take as wide a line as
you can.