rec.autos.simulators

Second, the wheel uses Microsoft Force Feedback Technology so those of you with
MSFF, maybe you could help me.  When I have the force feedback enabled and I'm
racing, I find that wheel has a bit of lag.  But worse, when I make quick
corrections [in GPL], including to opposite lock, the calibration gets messed
up.  It's like when I make those quick corrections, the wheel seems to slip on
the belts that run the feedback.  This problem doesn't occur when I have the
feedback turned off.  In fact, the optical system is very accurate, allowing me
to catch spins that I wouldn't have with my T2.  It's just when the feedback is
on that I have this problem with the wheel losing its calibration.  

Please help with some suggestions!

Thanks...

--
Dream High, Aim High, Fly High--U.S. Air Force
--
*****The WINGMAN*****

Can make a huge difference.

Marc.

I suggest you lower your steering ratio(I have it 10:1) and by doing that,
try to be more precise with _less&short_ wheel moves.

What comes to "lag":
Minimize delay in the core.ini file in GPL folder(which usually causes the
lag, I mean.....it's not folders fault, but too big latency in the
file...<G>).

My core.ini setup:
---
force_feedback_latency = 0.00001          ; force feedback latency (secs)
----
If that's too restless(too precise&responsive) for you, increase it a bit.
:)

Make sure you ain't editing core.ini.sample file! Editing that doesn't have
ANY effect.

Yeah. Optical is best solution IMO, no problems with pots -> stays very
accurate. I had suspicions before buying MS FF that optical wasn't accurate,
but now I know it is accurate and I'm very happy with my MS FF.

I hope you get your steering right ;)

Wingman kirjoitti viestiss? ...

thanks for the suggestions.  I've put the latency low, and the maxforce higher.
 I'm really growing annoyed with this force feedback thing, but the pedals are
just horrible!

--
*****The WINGMAN*****

Like you, I also purchased a re-furbed R4 Force Wheel...  Overall it
isn't too bad... very precise steering, FF is OK I suppose...  The
paddle shifters are a bit too long and get caught up in my fingers... I
may cut those down...  ;-)

But, your right, the pedals are crap...  the travel is just too short to
get any precision in varying the brake and throttle position.

I also have a T2... love the pedals on it, especially after I "modified"
them to use "rollers" as the pedals themselves.  Basically, I used 2"
wide bed casters and a 3" long 1/4" bolt.  So, now instead of those flat
pedals, I have a smooth roller under my foot... very smooth.

Now, how can we attach these to the R4 wheel...  I haven't figured it
out yet... in fact, I haven't yet opened the R4 pedal box to peek inside
yet.  I suspect the R4 pedals use pots... but if they use optical
sensors it won't be possible, at least not for my skill.

If the R4 uses pots, it may be possible to rig a connection from the T2
pedals to the R4 wheel.  The R4 uses a phone-style jack with 4
connectors. *If* these are connected pairwise to a pair of pots in the
R4 pedals, then, it may be possible to connect a standard phone
extension cord to the pots in the T2 pedals.

From a previous inspection, the T2 pedal pots are wired in series, which
is why the T2 throttle and brake are always on a single axis.   I would
imagine that you would have to wire them individually for the R4.  I was
considering the following wiring using a switch so I could use the T2
pedals with my T2 and possibly the R4.

*** KEEP IN MIND THAT THIS IS A DESIGN, I HAVEN'T BUILT IT SO I DON'T
KNOW IF THIS WORKS ****

      .-------.                  .----------.
   +--| Brake |---+          +---| Throttle |--+
   |  .-------.   |          |   .----------.  |
   |              +---/  /---+                 |
   +------------+ |   SPST   | +---------------+
   |            | |  Switch  | |               |
   |            | |          | |               |
   |            | |          | |               |
   |          {to R4}      {to R4}             |
   |                                           |
   | +-----------------------------------------+
   | |
   | |
 {to T2}

You'll need to cut the wire between the 2 pots in the original T2 pedals
and insert a single-pole, single-throw toggle switch.  Attach leads for
the phone wire connection to the the R4, pairwise to the "side" of each
pot.  Then with the toggle switch open, the pedals would be seperate for
the R4.  With the toggle closed, the pedals are configured for the T2.

***AGAIN, I HAVEN'T BUILT THIS... ONLY THINKING ABOUT IT ***

Also, if the R4 pedals use optical sensors, this design goes right out
the window.

Also, if the R4 pedals use pots, we'll need the check their
resistance... i think the T2 pedals use 150K ohm linear pots, not radio
taper.

Thoughts???  Comments... Other ideas???

Ed

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I suspect the R4 pedals use pots...

It uses pots...

Zolli

Sounds like a lot of work to me, especially with the schedule I have.  I was
just thinking about cutting the stop on the R4 brake pedal to get a bit longer
throw.  Other than that, I can't think of anything else to do other than switch
back to the trusty T2.

See what happens when you try to buy the first wheel in over 4 years?!?

--
Dream High, Aim High, Fly High--U.S. Air Force
--
*****The WINGMAN*****

No, see below

The pedals use logarithmic pots, about 100K

/Bj.O.rn, SDK #1225

BTW, my previous post regarding a circuit configuration to connect to T2
pedals is incorrect.  The pot wiring is considerably different between
tthe R4 and T2 pedal designs.  I'm working on a circuit design that
*may* work.  It requires a 4-pole, double-throw (4PDT) switch.  The
difficult may arise in the total resistance of the pots, since the R4
uses 100K (logarithmic) pots and the T2 uses linear 150K pots.

Stay tuned.

Ed

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