> I've had enough. As soon as I can
> scrape the money together in a couple of months I'm going to buy a TSW.
> -Chris Cavin-
This is the best cure for TM spring breakage :)!
Trev
> I've had enough. As soon as I can
> scrape the money together in a couple of months I'm going to buy a TSW.
> -Chris Cavin-
This is the best cure for TM spring breakage :)!
Trev
> That said, I *am* considering a TSW. I just can't convince myself to spend
> ANOTHER $350 or so.
> __
You dont have to spend $350.00 to get a quality product, we make several
models for much less than that, there is the TSW2 line for those who
dont want to spend the money for the TSW.
Once you buy a Thomas Enterprises product you never have to worry about
service, for one thing they never break, we answer email the same day it
is recieved and if a pot should fail we usually ship a replacement that
day also.
Check out our entire line at:
http://soli.inav.net/~thomas
Trev
>Can anyone help ??
% That must be some bad luck on your part. I've had a T2 for over 2 years.
% The only problem is the pedal springs have broken (as of now a grand
% total of 2). So don't think that all the units are like that. Plus we have
% no way of knowing how you treated your TM stuff.
The other main maintenance that needs to be performed (and this applies
to all controllers with analog pots) is pot cleaning. When the
calibration starts getting sloppy or is "lost" this is usually a sign of
"dirty pots". It's a fairly simple job and when done with the proper
cleaner will also lengthen the life of the pots (as it will also
lubricate the pot). When calibration gets lost, this is usually caused
by a "spike" in the reading that jumps outside the original calibrated
range.
To clean the pots on Thrustmaster products, get some Tuner/Switch
Cleaner and Lubricant from an electronics supply store. Open up the
housing on the unit and spray the insides of the pot (short for
potentiometer). I usually direct the spray (via the tube extenstion for
the spray nozzle) into the openings of the pot where the solder lugs
are. Then move the wheel or pedal through its full range 4-6 times to
work the cleaner over all the contacts. If the unit was acting up quite
a bit, you may want to give it a second "cleaning" before sealing up the
unit and heading back out to the track.
There are pots for each pedal and for each lever on the back of the GP1
wheel. The latter can usually be cleaned by finding a "squarish" hole on
the pot and directing the spray through the hole. You should be able to
clean the pots for the levers without disassembling anything on your
GP1, however to get to the steering wheel pot you will need to remove
the housing cover of the wheel.
[For the non-electronics or non-mechanical racers out there, the pot is
the "silver" cylinder that the is directly behind the wheel inside the
housing. It should have some wires connected to it and the wheel is
connected its plastic shaft. There should be a "shaft" coming out of one
end of the cylinder.]
--
**************************** Michael E. Carver *************************
Upside out, or inside down...False alarm the only game in town.
=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=<[ /./. [- < ]>=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=
>Can anyone help ??
I have ordered springs,pots,and even a bungy cord from Thrustmaster.
I've always gotten my parts within 10 working days,and they never charge
anything for them.
Joel Willstein
writes:
Spoken like a true businessman. <g>
Thanks.
__
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