F1GP/WC DRIVING GUIDE
F1GP can prove tricky until a few simple techniques are mastered.
This
document lists some of the most useful pieces of advice for
learning how
to drive quickly enough. Please remember that these tips come from
various people on the net, and that everyone develops their own
style.
DG: I've made a few personal observations about driving style,
based
partly on people's descriptions of how they drive, and partly on
their
setups. It seems that the fastest qualifiers tend to be in the
Mansell
mould; very exciting to watch, right on the limit of essentially
unstable setups; Ivanhoe Vasiljevich and the Smit brothers, Ren?
and
Robin, certainly seem to fit this description. Those who
consistently do
well in races are in the Prost mould; calm, calculating, pragmatic,
pushing safe, stable setups hard enough to get the job done without
risking an incident which could wipe out their chances; that's the
approach I try to take. Knowing which approach to use when is half
the
trick; being able to use either as necessary is the other half...
LEARN THE COURSE
This is probably the hardest, but most effective method for
speeding up.
With a good knowledge of the track you can pick up 2-3 seconds a
lap
(and that's a pretty conservative estimate!). There is no easy way
to
learn the tracks except to drive round them a lot! [Duh, no?] Look
out
for landmarks, such as the dome at Mexico, the bridges at
Silverstone
and the buildings at Monaco. (Of course, if you have a slow
machine,
it's better to turn detail off and learn the courses without
landmarks,
so you can get a higher frame rate.) Once you know what corners are
coming up you can anticipate the way that the opposition are going
to
move and which side of the course to position yourself on. Of
course
with the Ideal Line on it becomes a lot easier to tell, but on the
higher levels you lose this option, and the ideal line isn't always
ideal anyway.
BRAKING
OK, so you know where the corners are, now how about slowing for
them.
The Auto-Braking feature is very poor, and you can usually travel
another 50-100 yards before you have to apply the brakes, this is
the
main way for passing the other cars and making up a lot of time.
The
computer controlled cars always brake very early so it is east to
shoot
past them, there is no excuse for not passing 3 or 4 cars at every
1st
or 2nd gear corner.
By late-breaking into all corners whilst on a clear lap you can
easily
smash the lap record, the only problem with this technique is that
your
tyres get worn quickly and you may find yourself having to make an
extra
pit-stop. [DG: It isn't entirely clear just how tyre wear is
modelled.
Setup seems to play a role, but it's far from proven that driving
conservatively reduces tyre wear.]
STARTING
A good start can gain you plenty of places, or keep you out of the
usual
pile up at the first corner. If you have too many revs as the
lights go
green you will sit stationary whilst the wheels spin, and if you
have
too few revs the car will move away too slowly. There is quite a
large
rev-band in the middle where you can make a very good start.
GB: My personnel technique is to hold the car at full revs in first
until the first lights come on, and then let go of the clutch (Gear
change button), by the time the light go green the revs will have
fallen
enough for you to make a pretty good start. Note, this does not
apply in
the wet, when two many revs causes massive amounts of wheel spin.
See
the "In the wet" section for more information.
DG: My technique is similar, but I let the revs start dropping
after
counting to 5 (about 7 to 8 seconds). This is slightly before the
red
lights come on, about 1-2 seconds. That way, the revs are a little
lower
when the lights go to green, you get less wheelspin, and a quicker
start.
If you aren't on pole, you should be aware that when the wheels
stop
spinning and bite properly, you'll get a sudden burst of
acceleration
which can easily put you into the back of anyone in front.
ACCIDENTS
Invariably there will be an accident during a race, there are three
types, ones that are half a lap away, ones that are a car length
away,
and an accident involving your car. Obviously the first sort is the
easiest to cope with, and you will only usually find out about by
the
message "Kip Kipper is out the race". When this appears press pause
and
then insert to see what happened. This is done for two reasons,
firstly
to watch any cool pile-ups and secondly to see if it effects your
lap at
all. In most cases there will be no problems and you can continue
as
normal, however you should always check for cars parked half on the
track that the computer isn't removing, and any damaged cars. If
any
stopped cars are still on the track then remember where they are so
you
don't overtake into the side of them! Normally the marshalls will
push
stalled cars away pretty quickly, but there are a few places where
they
may leave part of the car on the track. Damaged cars only pose a
threat
if you catch up with them near the pit-lane since they will
suddenly cut
across your path and can cause further accidents. (This is most
noticeable at Mexico where cars going into the pits slow down on
the
racing line. Several other tracks also suffer from similar
problems,
especially Montreal, where they slow to 40 mph where you need to be
going 170 mph!)
Something which you will soon discover is that you can overtake
masses
of cars under yellow without worrying about being black flagged.
Shortly
after you discover that, you will also find out that this often
results
in you slamming into a broken car at high speed, usually taking you
out
of the race.
If there is an accident directly in front of you then there is
usually
not too much you can do except take avoiding action; always watch
the
road ahead for funny shaped blotches that could be spinning cars
and
take care near some of the 'blackspots'. If there is a crash and
you
can't avoid it then all you can do is slow down and pray that you
are
going slow enough to cause no damage. Remember that you could get
stuck
behind another damaged car and the same problems as above apply.
Finally, what do you do if you are in an accident? The first thing
to do
is not panic or get angry, if you go off course then there is
nothing
much you can do except wait for a gap in the traffic to pull back
on. If
you pull back on without waiting then chances are you will be hit
by
another car and taken out.
Your car can be damaged at the front, the rear, or both combined.
Front
damage results in severe understeer, making it very difficult to
turn
corners; rear damage equals massive oversteer, resulting in
excessive
wheel spin, and a sharp or fast turn will spin the car; both wings
damaged will make the car very difficult to control. Once your car
is
damaged, all you can do is limp round to the pits, taking the
straights
quickly and the corners slowly and carefully. Once in the pit it is
usually a 25 second stop before you are released.
It helps to practice a bit on the grass. The cars will behave
strangely
on grass (and most especially when one side of the car is on grass
and
the other on asphalt) and you need to practice getting back on the
course quickly, and without hitting the walls or other cars.
Sometimes
no matter how hard you try, other cars will ram straight into you.
That,
as Damon Hill would say, is racing.
THE PITS
The pits are where all repairs are conducted on your car, in an
ideal
race you will only see them once or twice for pit stops. During a
pit
stop bring your car in smoothly, and consider doing another lap if
a car
in front is also going to pull in as they will slow you down. When
in
the pits watch very carefully for other cars pulling out or racing
down
the pit lane as they will hit you mercilessly. A tyre stop is quick
with
the get-away being the only problem you have to worry about.
GB: I follow a similar procedure to starting the race, but instead
of
waiting for the first lights I wait for the car to begin to be
dropped.
When the car is damaged there is little change in the procedure
except
that the stop will take longer and there is more danger of you
overshooting the pit.
THE OPPOSITION
There are 26 cars in a race and if the level is set to 1991 level
then
they all have a set performance. In this case it helps to know what
the
other team colors are so you know who you are trying to pass. Mono
VGA
owners [GB: like me] will just have to learn the general patterns
of the
faster cars. By knowing who you are up against you can judge how
fast
they are going to be traveling and how likely they are to make a
pass on
another car.
The artificial Intelligence of the computer cars is very poor and
they
will all follow the same line, and brake at the same points so it
pays
to learn these patterns. The main problems occur when overtaking
two
cars that are battling each other, at some circuits (notably
Hockenheim)
sometimes the second car will put out to overtake the first car as
you
pull alongside, thus pushing you off. There is no way around this
and
you will just have to wait for a corner or be very brave pull right
over
to the side of the track and go at it three abreast.
THE RIGHT LINE
The right line is crucial for going quickly, however, the game
provides
a lot of help when it comes to picking out the correct route. This
is
done in two way, firstly through the use of the Ideal Line
Indicator
which puts the dotted line on the track, and the Steering Help
which
tends to pull you over to the correct side of the course. Although
both
of these options can be turned off, by the time you reach the
levels
where the former is not allowed you should know the courses quite
well.
At some corners it helps to come up with your own line, but this
will
tend to happen naturally depending on your style.
CORNERING
Grand Prix cars have a different cornering characteristics
depending on
their set up, and learning these is just a matter of trial and
experiment. With a lot of downforce at the back, the car will be
unresponsive in corners but it will tend to drift out of corners
nicely,
the main thing to remember is not to accelerate mid corner as the
car
will understeer off the course.
If the cars has more front downforce then it will turn in well and
be
better at taking sharp corners, the problem with this set up is
that if
you accelerate too early the car will spin or turn too quickly
(this is
often desirable!); it takes time to learn the correct acceleration
point, but this just takes practice. Sometimes the rear wheels will
skid
as you come round a long corner (such as Peralta at Mexico),
occasionally it pays off to accelerate when this happens, and hope
the
tyres bite the road, also steering the opposite direction to try
and
prevent a spin. This technique takes a lot of practice and good
luck,
but once you learn it, the cars become far more controllable than
before.
DG: Read the manual carefully. It does explain how the setup will
affect
the car's handling, and what oversteer and understeer are, but not
very
clearly. Practice and experiment a lot until you can identify how a
setup change will affect handling and performance. And the manual
has
some good advice: only change one thing at once.
OVERTAKING
Apart from the methods described in 'Braking' and 'The Opposition'
there
is Slipstreaming, where you move up close behind the car in front
and
pick up a tow (This is a "hole" in the air behind a car in front,
by
moving into it you lose both drag and downforce and so move
faster). As
your car picks up speed pull out quickly and use the extra 10mph to
overtake. This is fairly easy to do, the only problem happening if
you
have a low downforce car and you turn out too sharply and lose
control.
There isn't too much you can do about this except to turn out more
gently or be ready to catch the skid. It's also all too easy to get
too
close before pulling out and accidently hit the car in front, often
resulting in you spinning out.
IN THE WET
GB: I am rubbish at this! Any tips appreciated for both me and the
FAQ.
DG: Err, yeah, me too! Still, here goes...
First, forget any knowledge of the track you already have; it's
totally
different in the wet, and forget any notions of running without
Traction
Help, unless you like spinning. Your setup will have much less
downforce, and the differential between front and rear wings must
be
less or you'll have uncontrollable oversteer and will lose the back
end
at pretty much every corner. When starting, you want no wheelspin,
so
just engage first and wait for the light; the AI cars will beat you
off
the line but there's apparently nothing you can do about it. Do not
attempt to brake into a slow corner like you can in the dry; you
must
finish braking before you turn in or you will lose the back end.
SET UP HINTS
Take a look at the Halls Of Fame for some good setups; below are
some
more general bits of advice from various people.
Doug Reichley
[DG: I lifted this from an article posted to rec.autos.simulators.
It
has been very lightly edited.]
Some of you will remember the advice I gave for the German track
last year. I said to have just enough wing to make it through
turn 1
and the Agipkurve flat out.
Well, I have changed my mind (and my car). After practicing at
other
`fast' tracks (I'm smokn' at Monza), I brought in what I learned
and
am now solidly in the 1m31 lap range on Q tires (and no drafting,
of
course).
Last year's car was getting 207 to 208mph down the straights.
This
year's car is only getting 203mph. The difference is definitely
in
the slower corners. Last year's car pushed through the pit
entrance
corners at 80mph. This year's car is nuetral going 109-112mph.
Wings made the difference. Here is what I suggest (I've been
wrong
before):
Put your wings at 10 (front) and 1 (rear). Don't worry about
cornering yet; you will still be flat out for the 2 fastest
corners
with these wings. Set your gears to get the maximum speed down
the
straightaway. Don't be afraid to try a setting above 64. Once the
gears are set for maximum speed, don't change them for the wing
adjustments.
Change only your front wing until your car starts oversteering.
I'm
not talking about while braking, but rather snapping into
oversteer
during high-speed cornering. You'll know it when you see it
`cause
you'll kiss the wall big time. You can expect to be about 20
counts
apart when this starts happening, depending on your style. Back
off
on the front wing until the car no longer snaps into oversteer.
Now adjust both wings equally until you start losing top-end
speed.
This may surprise you how far up you will get them before you
start
losing speed. I don't mean 1 or 2 mph, but rather 4 or 5.
Now pay attention to cornering. Is the car pushing
[understeering]
in the slow corners? It most likely will be at this point. This
is
where the compromise will come into play. You will want to get
rid
of the push (again adjust both wings up equally), but you will
need
to sacrifice top-end speed. 5-7mph is no big loss since the
cornering speeds are now higher.
Once you get comfortable with this, you can start using the brake
bias to see how it will affect cornering at the slower speeds. I
still have negative (rear) bias on my car (-10 for now to be
exact).
Now the final step will be to re-adjust the gearing to gain any
speed that may be left in the motor.
Once all that is done, you should have a nice car to drive. Don't
be
afraid to tweak it in any direction. You may be real close to
that
`magical' setup I always talk about.
This was written specifically for Germany, but can be used at
most
of the tracks. I hope it helps someone out.
[DG: Here's another article I pinched from Doug off Usenet.]
[...]
Pit strategy depends entirely on 2 things:
The type of track it is (ie how hard it is on tires)
Your setup (ie how hard it is on tires)
A track such as Monza is real easy on tires (ie you may go 100%
distance on Cs and turn roughly the same laps all the way
through),
whereas France will eat them for lunch if you have a bad setup
(ie
you may only get 12 good laps out of them before they drop off
and
go bad).
The first thing you have to do is learn what worn out tires
'feel'
like. There are two ways you can get a quick feel for worn tires:
Use Q tires for many laps without changing them.
Use W tires on a dry track.
The Q tires will teach you how the tire feels when it is good and
then falls off over time. The W tires will teach you how worn
tires
feel almost immediately.
I would suggest to use both techniques. Use the W's first to get
a
good 'feel' for REALLY worn tires.
Then switch to Q's and drive on them until you think they are
worn.
It's not really as hard as it sounds and it won't really take
that
long either.
Once you have mastered the art of detecting worn tires, you are
ready to move on to step 2.
Step 2 is lap timing in your head. It's really quite easy. It's
not
as hard as counting cards in poker, but easier than counting
jelly
beans in a jar.
EVERY lap you should keep a note in your brain of what your lap
times are. You should see a nice ramp downwards, then a leveling
off
and finally a slight ramp back up.
Like this:
T \
I \
M --__ ___---
E ---
Number of Laps
Your going to want to pit on the plateau. How long you stay on
the
plateau is up to you and the tires. What you learned with the
tire
trick will pay off big now.
The only reason to get off the plateau early is if new tires will
be
MUCH faster than if you waited. You always want your time to be
on
the downward slope lap after lap.
You have to time your last pit stop so that the last ten laps are
not going on the upward slope. You always want to finish on the
plateau.
If you have troubles 'timing in your head', then use GPLAP to do
this. The only problem with that is if you don't test a lot, you
will not have sufficient data to make your decision.
Timing in your head is really the only way to go. It also makes
those snap decision easier to make if you know what worn tires
feel
like.
As always, this is, of course, only my opinion. If you asked 3
people you would get 3 answers. Consider this one of those 3
answers; nothing more, nothing less.
Dave Gymer
I start by "stealing" the setup from the Hall Of Fame; I usually
use
Ivanhoe Vasiljevich's. Then I shunt the brake balance forward a
little.
Then I go out and drive test laps in ones and twos, adjusting the
rear
wing so I can get round the fastest corners on Q tyres with the car
not
quite breaking loose (take rear wing off one step at a time until
it
becomes loose, than back up one step). At some tracks this means a
light
touch on the joystick.
Now I decide if the front wing needs changes to either increase
speed,
or increase cornering speeds. This will typically happen at a
medium-fast circuit like Interlagos, where compromise is the name
of the
game. By this stage the wings should be within 2 or 3 steps of the
nominally correct position, so it's time to start playing with the
brake
balance. I shift it rearwards until the car oversteers under
braking;
some drivers like oversteer but I prefer a shorter braking distance
and
a smoother line through the corner (except at tracks with corners
which
need to be taken at speed but still braked into, like Silverstone,
where
the front end of the car needs to "twist" into the corner under
braking). At this point it might be worth fiddling with the rear
wing as
well as brake balance, but most likely all you'll do is upset the
balance of the car.
Finally, adjust gear ratios. The lowest ratio should be
sufficiently low
as to permit good acceleration out of the slowest corner (typically
a
hairpin); you may want to experiment with a ratio as low as 20. The
highest gear wants to get you to about 12500 rpm at top speed; that
leaves a bit over for drafting. Those who use autogears should keep
their lower 3 gears within 7 or 8 steps of each other or the
autoshifter
will get confused under wheelspin and get stuck in 2nd. At really
tight
circuits like Monaco I keep the bottom three ratios within 5 of
each
other.
When I'm choosing a race setup, I tend to move the brake balance
forward
a place or two to reduce any oversteer, add a little rear wing for
more
stability, especially with a heavy fuel load and when pulling out
of a
draft, and always start on Cs.
Kevin Sullivan
[...] late apexing... go deep into corners on the brakes to carry
straightaway speed, lighten brakes and corner in then begin
accelerating
out... maximizing exit speed onto the straights (longest straight
corner
before is the most important!) is crucial. This general strategy
works
in the real world, and in the sim as well (methinks, but I was a
real-world racer once...).
As a general rule, this is most important to real-world fast lines
through corners.
[...] Maybe in the sim this is so, though I doubt it, really. Too
oversimplified for reality. If you've ever ridden a motorcycle or
read a
driver's education manual, you would know that under heavy braking,
with
the pitch forward and resulting weight shift to the front wheels
increasing the grip available, the front brakes normally do about
70% of
the braking work to stop a vehicle. The physics models would have
to
take this into account to make a decent sim, or it wouldn't feel as
good
as it does.
Know the traction circle concept, taught in every basic driving
school
class? The idea is that tires only have so much grip available that
can
be given to a "circle" with no accel/braking/turning vectors at the
center, then full braking, full accel, turning left/right, and
points in
between defining your circle of traction... Practical aspect being
that
if you try to turn a corner under full braking, no doubt you exceed
the
circle of traction available and understeer occurs. Got to let off
the
brakes a bit to devote some of the grip available towards turning
the
car into the corner, and this is also why you need to balance
throttle
and turning coming out of a corner, because in addition to the
traction
circle idea, you are now accelerating with the rear wheels thus
picking
up the nose putting more traction towards the rear of the car on
the
driving wheels and taking weight off the front of the car on the
steering wheels...
Play with it on your street car sometime... pick a constant radius
turn
at highway speeds and check the turn in/out factors based on
throttle
inputs only. More throttle more relative understeer, throttle off
you
will see the car turn in more. I am NOT talking about spinning the
rears
to oversteer, just mild throttle changes approaching your tires
traction
limits when these effects are easily visible.
[DG: It should go without saying that you should not be
experimenting
with racecar techniques on public roads.]
For your sim, if you find yourself understeering in a corner, then
adjust brake balance to the rear (fronts locked and steering,
exceeds
grip available, so shift work rearward), but if you find yourself
oversteering, even if smooth into the corner, then this means the
rears
are possibly locking up first so shift brake balance more towards
the
front, thus distributing work more evenly. When you get to a
neutral
balance of controllability (or uncontrollability if overcooking the
entrance) then you've found a good balance for you.
Of course, setup has a LOT to do with the relative stiffness at
each
corner affecting the weight shift and effects of brake balance, so
don't
start here, end here. Springs/shocks/weighting affects.
And I don't own F1gp, or IC, just know cars and how it should be
when
you have a well-balanced race setup that is a joy to drive.
Christian Peper aka Dreams Email: j.c.a.pe...@research.kpn.com
PAV B38, +31-50-58(21054), KPN Research, the Netherlands
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