| If the brakes are locking, you are pressing the pedal too hard. You need
to
| gently squeeze the brakes. Drive in socks also.
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"It may be the cheap'n'*** pedals for my TM wheel, which have very
little travel, or the fact my hands are more of a "precision"
instrument than my feet, but since I made the change i found that I
have been able to brake much more reliably!"
Does ruin the immersion a bit though." Why Ian? F1 cars now have
clutch controls on the wheel. Early cars had the accelerator and
timing adjustment on the steering column.
I find that the TM GP I and Nascar Charger 2 wheels have large ranges in
their paddle brake and accelerator controls. I've placed small foam
*** stops between the paddles and the wheel for a similar squash ball
effect.
CB
I'm not an ultra late braker but this always helps me brake a little bit
later than I used to.
> > Any tips for not locking up the brakes? I watch replays and people seem to
> > slow very fast without any lockups? Is it a downshift/brake combo? I'm
> > using a TM Pro 2 if anyone else is where do you have the sliders at in the
> > axis setup? I just can't seem to get a smooth slowdown. If I brake really
> > hard the AI rams into me.
> > Thanks
> > J. Janasov
> Cut a squash ball in half or get some wads of paper and wrap them in
> tape and stick it under your brake pedal.
> Calibrate the brakes to maximum pedal travel then stick the ball or
> paper underneath. You have to experiment a bit but you'll find now that
> when you brake, the pedal only travels about 95% of the distance so you
> get virtually max braking but without locking up.
> Kev
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>Jesse, Quick question/comment, I too prefer 53-54% bias and many
>of Chris Moses setups work well at 55%. I have all Huttu's setups &
>apprantly he uses a 51% or at most 52%. In braking with his setup I
>find this is where I run into hard'lock & smooth stopping problems!!
>Question I guess, How in the "H" does he do this and not hardlock?
>Or should this be directed to Mr Huttu??...lol Tia.. Anyone!!
I have pretty good pedals (TM Nascar Pro) and with these I find it
pretty easy to brake without locking the wheels. I'm sure braking
would be harder with a brake pedal which doesn't have so much
resistance.
- Greger
http://www.kolumbus.fi/ghuttu/
|
| Hi Thom, hmmm, you mean that with my setups the front wheels lock more
| easily? The reason I use 51% brake bias is to prevent the front wheels
| from locking too easily... this makes the back end of the car twitchy
| under braking but using a little throttle helps with that.
|
| I have pretty good pedals (TM Nascar Pro) and with these I find it
| pretty easy to brake without locking the wheels. I'm sure braking
| would be harder with a brake pedal which doesn't have so much
| resistance.
|
| - Greger
| http://www.kolumbus.fi/ghuttu/
|
| >Jesse, Quick question/comment, I too prefer 53-54% bias and many
| >of Chris Moses setups work well at 55%. I have all Huttu's setups &
| >apprantly he uses a 51% or at most 52%. In braking with his setup I
| >find this is where I run into hard'lock & smooth stopping problems!!
| >Question I guess, How in the "H" does he do this and not hardlock?
| >Or should this be directed to Mr Huttu??...lol Tia.. Anyone!!
Well, Mr W?ger uses wheel and pedals now, too. :) But yeah, he was
"pretty" fast with a joystick.
Hmm, don't know. I actually also used those wheel paddles to
accelerate and brake for a few weeks when GPL came out. All I had then
was the original TM GP1 wheel, which doesn't have pedals so I was
forced to do that. <g>
I guess there are pros and cons with that method. Your hands and
fingers are more accurate than your feet so it might be even easier in
that aspect. But maybe you get into better rhythm when you're using
your feet, too. I don't know. :)
Yeah, the braking for the Rouen hairpin is tough. What I do is brake
hard at first and when I start turning more into the left-hander I
ease off the brakes a bit and then get back on the brakes hard after
the car is straightened out... and of course use a little throttle
there to settle the car.
Try using just a little throttle when braking if you have gas & brake
on separate axis. It helps... you don't need to hold the gas pedal (or
paddle) way down, just a bit will do.
- Greger
http://www.kolumbus.fi/ghuttu/
|
| >Hello Mr Huttu, Wellp since you are the "master" I am lost now! Scratch?
| >Scratch?? All tho' I have to use paddles for gas/brake not pedals with my
| >TM aka Guillemot Ferrari FFB wheel but if Mr Woeger can do it without
| >pedals I should hope to get at least within fire'ing range of you aliens!
| >:-)
|
| Well, Mr W?ger uses wheel and pedals now, too. :) But yeah, he was
| "pretty" fast with a joystick.
"O" I know this!! He & I have raced many times in GPL and now N4
when he was using the joystick & now not.. U aliens U! Grrrrr..lol
| >Maybe since I must steer-shift-gas&brake with my hands I dont have the
| >speed to get into the 'correct rhythm' into & out of the turns like
| >yourself?
|
| Hmm, don't know. I actually also used those wheel paddles to
| accelerate and brake for a few weeks when GPL came out. All I had then
| was the original TM GP1 wheel, which doesn't have pedals so I was
| forced to do that. <g>
Yup that was my first wheel!! The TM GP1, then the TM Sprint and
now the TM Ferrari FFB Race Wheel.. Btw I have gone thru a total
of 20 of these since early 98....lol
| I guess there are pros and cons with that method. Your hands and
| fingers are more accurate than your feet so it might be even easier in
| that aspect. But maybe you get into better rhythm when you're using
| your feet, too. I don't know. :)
Well I have never had the luxory' of the choice between the 2 but I
do feel I am more accurate with my hands.. Also thank God I have
been a musician for 46years..lol That really helped my dexterity!
| >I try like hell I know that but when you do the tight hair'pin at Rouen
and
| >try to maintain a down'shift-steer-gas/brake mode it is tuff!! I'll give
| >your
| >setups a go again but they are really squirrel'ie when braking for me!!
| >I aint gonna give up yet tho'!! :-).. Cheers Thom_j.
|
| Yeah, the braking for the Rouen hairpin is tough. What I do is brake
| hard at first and when I start turning more into the left-hander I
| ease off the brakes a bit and then get back on the brakes hard after
| the car is straightened out... and of course use a little throttle
| there to settle the car.
This is exactly my approach too but I bet you go in a hell of alot
faster then "slow-poke" me.. phew
| Try using just a little throttle when braking if you have gas & brake
| on separate axis. It helps... you don't need to hold the gas pedal (or
| paddle) way down, just a bit will do.
Being an ex-motorcycle racer I use the "feather-gas/brake" type
mode! Meaning I "feather both gas/brake" as I turn... It worked
perfectly while racing "real-life motorcycles" and seems to work
well in most sims too?
Maybe I should do a little less gas/brake work and see if I can
get in and out faster without all the manipulative manovering..?
This will be one 'hard habit' to break tho as I am not fast but I
can get out of many wrecker type spots really fast this way!!
| - Greger
| http://www.kolumbus.fi/ghuttu/
Thanx for sharing your info Greger
Cheers Thom_j.
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>Yup that was my first wheel!! The TM GP1, then the TM Sprint and
>now the TM Ferrari FFB Race Wheel.. Btw I have gone thru a total
>of 20 of these since early 98....lol
Yeah, I think it works pretty well. I mean I correct the car probably
more with pedals than the wheel in some corners. I don't know if
that's "feathering" really but you need to play around with the gas
and brakes most of the time.
Well, it's always worth trying out new things so go for it. :)
- Greger
http://www.kolumbus.fi/ghuttu/
|
| >| Hmm, don't know. I actually also used those wheel paddles to
| >| accelerate and brake for a few weeks when GPL came out. All I had then
| >| was the original TM GP1 wheel, which doesn't have pedals so I was
| >| forced to do that. <g>
| >
| >Yup that was my first wheel!! The TM GP1, then the TM Sprint and
| >now the TM Ferrari FFB Race Wheel.. Btw I have gone thru a total
| >of 20 of these since early 98....lol
|
| 20! You must be joking! :)
Nope! Not one bit!! You have no idea how many hours I put in on sims
in just a week!! When I mean 'feather' I do mean work those 2 paddles
almost constantly back & forth, forth & back! I *** these wheels :-)
"O" btw this is 20 total of the GP1, Sprint and Ferrari, Greger..lol Only
toasted one Ferrari so far tho'.. The TM Ferrari is one tough wheel! :-)
| >| Try using just a little throttle when braking if you have gas & brake
| >| on separate axis. It helps... you don't need to hold the gas pedal (or
| >| paddle) way down, just a bit will do.
| >
| >Being an ex-motorcycle racer I use the "feather-gas/brake" type
| >mode! Meaning I "feather both gas/brake" as I turn... It worked
| >perfectly while racing "real-life motorcycles" and seems to work
| >well in most sims too?
|
| Yeah, I think it works pretty well. I mean I correct the car probably
| more with pedals than the wheel in some corners. I don't know if
| that's "feathering" really but you need to play around with the gas
| and brakes most of the time.
If you ever tried dirt racing even in fun you have to constantly be
on the gas reving on&off over & over thru the turn while feather
touching the front & back brake thru the turns. But in short, 1/4,
1/2 & mile dirt racking you have *no* brakes. I just loved it! :-)
| >Maybe I should do a little less gas/brake work and see if I can
| >get in and out faster without all the manipulative manovering..?
| >This will be one 'hard habit' to break tho as I am not fast but I
| >can get out of many wrecker type spots really fast this way!!
|
| Well, it's always worth trying out new things so go for it. :)
It's really hard! Phew I never knew how much I relied on this
technique until trying to stop!! I am not sure if I can break my
habit of feathering? and maybe it wont do well for me?
| - Greger
| http://www.racesimcentral.net/
Cheers Thom_j.
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I tried leaving the downshifting late, so there was a flurry of gear changes
before I put the power back on, and it made a huge difference to my braking
distances. They're so much shorter now!
Thanks.
R.
=-=-=-
I find it best to stomp on the brakes firstthen feel it and ease off to
avoid locking.
You can use the easy on approach but i find a quick stomp then a slight lay
off gives good early braking but you avoid the lock.
Thats a preference.
The key to late braking is the downshift, as with any sim, the later you
leave all the shifting the better as if you downshift quickly you will carry
too many revs meaning it pushes the car more, do it too quickly and the dif
will lock and spin you around.
So wait until your revs are very low and drop the gears as there is no added
"push" against the brakes.
Im not an ultra late braker but this always helps me brake a little bit
later than I used to.
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I'm confused. (nothing new, I know) This is simple engine braking.
The idea that too many revs is pushing the car sounds completely
backward, what's really happening is that after you downshift the car is
"pulling" the engine. The resistance of the engine to being "pulled" to
a high rev level by the car helps the car to slow down, hence the term
"engine braking". Am I looking at this completely wrong?
Jason.
> Someone posted:
> "...if you downshift quickly you will carry
> too many revs meaning it pushes the car more"
> I'm confused. (nothing new, I know) This is simple engine braking.
> The idea that too many revs is pushing the car sounds completely
> backward, what's really happening is that after you downshift the car is
> "pulling" the engine. The resistance of the engine to being "pulled" to
> a high rev level by the car helps the car to slow down, hence the term
> "engine braking". Am I looking at this completely wrong?
Bart Westra
