Thanks for the suggestions, this is one hell of a frustrating thing.
Just spent the last two hours with a multimeter, trying to test it via
the joyport pins, but I couldn't locate any axes or buttons! No
problem if it was set to combines axes, I could measure the resistance
no problem at standard pin-outs. But not in split axis. I'm guessing
maybe Saitek use some funky pinout setup, but then this would***
with other games and windows controllers wouldn't work. So it's got me
stuffed.
Might try the sound card thing, but I haven't got many choices here :D
I'll pinch my brother's sblive and see how we go.
Even more frustrating is that I spent AGES changing the pots to
special audio grade conductive plastic pots, supposed to be the bees
knees. They work well, but now I struggle to keep the car on track
under braking!!! GRRRRRRR!
Rafe Mc
On Mon, 29 Oct 2001 17:25:57 -0700, "mark jeangerard"
>I don't know how far you can go with adjustment in your wheel, but I cured
>the same problem by changing the ranges in my pots. I noticed, while looking
>at an x-y grid, that the problem only arose at a certain value on the brake
>pedal, say between 112 and 123. I moved the pot so that the total brake
>travel was between 50 and 100 and the problem is bypassed in that manner. I
>also had some variance in the 30-40s. So I had to shorten my brake pedal
>travel to get the whole thing in between the glitches. I also have to
>install new pots with the grid running. Major pain, but better than pulling
>under braking or full throttle.
>....did I mention that my gas pedal did the same, and when I changed either
>the gas or the brake it would in turn change the other...
>...chased that sucker for two weeks....
>...keep notes...
>Hope that helps. "-)
