rec.autos.simulators

The tension in the T1 is provided by a bungee cord. What you need to do is
order a replacement from Thrustmaster (www.thrustmaster.com, there's a form to
fill out) or order a tune-up kit, which contains a new bungee as well as
springs and pots and gears. All you do when you get the bungee is loop one end
back around itself and secure it with the plastic fasteners that come in the
kit, then run that around the steering axle. Take a look at how it's run
through before you take the old one out. You can also tighten your old one if
you have a plastic fastener, just cut the old one off and stretch the bungee
tighter.

Hope this helps!

Steve Grant

I have the same dead spot in center of my wheel.  I got the generous
repair kit from Thrustmaster, and replaced the bungee, and
potentiometer in the steering wheel, and the broken spring in the
accelerator.  You can adjust the bungee to achieve a wide range of
tension.  I still have the dead spot and a really annoying "click"
sound as I pass the wheel from left of center to the right over
center.  

After examining the internals closely I found the click is from the
roughly triangular aluminum plate that is mounted on the shaft and
transfers the wheel movements to the bungee "pins". It seems the plate
having been made of aluminum has worn out slightly in its center cut
out at the point that it mounts to the shaft and therefore slips
(rotates)  from side to side as pressure is applied to the wheel.
This again is very annoying as it creates audible and tactile feedback
every time the wheel crosses center from left to right.  

Now the dead spot is something completely different.  Upon examination
the potentiometer is clearly fixed to the shaft itself, the shaft is
turning and the pot is mounted solid.  Even the most minute movement
is transmitted to the pot perfectly.  This was a good design, but !!!!
The Potentiometer must be causing the dead spot internally.  Which in
other words means it is not of the desired quality or resolution that
is needed to eliminate the dead spot .  Inside, the average pot looks
like a doughnut with resistive wire wrapped around it for about 3/4 of
it circumference. A bar connected to the knob slides over these wires
to vary the resistance on across the circuit. The potentiometer has a
resolution of say 30-50 steps in a 3/4 turn arc.  When you turn it,
the wheels output jumps from step to step, every little movement may
not result in getting to the next step.  You could be lucky and your
pot could progress smoothly across your centerpoint with small
movements.  But due to variations in the contact of the slider over
the wires,  you could get a *** dead spot in a fairl percentage of
the wheels.  This could be in different wheel positions.  My first pot
had a tiny but noticable dead spot at the 1 o'clock position.  The one
I have on it know is dead at dead center.  I have watched it with an
ohm meter, which is the only way to really determine if the fault is
with the wheel or with something else.

Jim Boka

I think the more realistic these driving sims have become the more we
notice these little nuances in the hardware.  The software is also
suspect whenever you have deadspot problems.  It is not unusual for
the software to include a dead spot area setting.  I know the problem
on my wheel is more noticable with Formula One Grand Prix 2 than it is
with Indycar Racing 2.
I would pay good money for really high quality, high resolution
potentiometer to replace the one on my T1.  I know this would end my
dead spot woes.

I don't know,  Thrustmaster please comment here......

I own a T2 and it has a bunge chord in it also. After time, mine has
streched where there is a dead zone in it.  I dont like the bungee
chord design, but still its a nice economical wheel unit. Another
thing I dont like is the Pedal spacing. They are too close together.
My main wheel controller now is the TSW, which is better built.

Dave Thayer
IVGA #2789

(1). I've also had my T1 for quite awhile.  I tried replacing the
'bungee' cord inside, but that didnt help the problem I am having.
(which is that I also have a 'dead zone' where there is no spring
action at all (it steers, just no tension on the bungee) this is good
for about 2 inches of travel, total)
(2). My 2nd pc has a T2 attached. I don't like the pedals (personally)
a little bit, the wheel itself is too small for my preferences.  You
may like it...
=John
They're not bugs!  They're random features!