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I just returned a std. R4 to Saitek. You might not want the same things I
do, so I'll be specific; forgive the long post and note this is the non-FF
model. My previous experience has been with a TM GP1 which I now use with CH
pedals and travel mods per Alison Hine(see her site), and a TM Nascar Pro that
I returned after a tryout due to the unstable pedals. (haven't seen the MS
wheel)
As to the R4, I wouldn't agree that it's a cheap toy. I'd use the Mad Catz
or V3 wheels as examples of such. The R4 is a quantum leap above that, a
pretty intricate design in fact, moreso than similarly-priced TM products.
Whatever else you say, its build quality shouldn't concern anyone; not at this
price point.
My reasons for returning the wheel involved the pedals, the steering, and
some technical concerns:
Pedals: The base is small, causing them to rock under foot. They didn't
slide on my fairly-thick carpet, but tilted and moved around too much for me.
They come with some non-slip pads for hard floors, but they're not pre-attached
or labeled, so some who've had slipping problems may have missed installing
them. The angle, resistance, and travel was good for me, but that's
preference. In comparison, I preferred their action to the Nascar Pro pedals.
If the base had a larger footprint they'd be fine, and that could probably be
sorted with a homemade wooden base, if you're inclined.
Steering: More of a disappointment to me than the pedals, but not
necessarily to everyone. I like a high degree of resistance in the wheel(TM &
a stout bungee), and hoped the adjustable tension would allow me to find the
right amount. Nope. As is, the resistance is Very Light, going from almost
none to very little. At full-tight, I could still turn the wheel with one
finger. Some people want this, as devotees of the CH wheels prove, and it IS
easy to turn one-handed. In a similar light, the wheel has a definite, though
light, center notch. I personally don't want a wheel that feels like a
joystick, but again, some people prefer this. The accuracy DID seem better
than the TM pot-based wheels, when I could use it(see problems). Note: what
resistance there is has a slight over-center feel about 45deg. off center.
Tension increases a bit, then falls towards full-lock, which is about 220deg.,
L-R.
Problems: I use my wheel for CART(ICR2), GP2, GPL of course, and
occasionally CPR . Of these, only CPR worked fully with the R4. It installed
without trauma and calibrated fine under WIN95; all pedals and buttons
accounted for. GP2 set up ok, but only recognized two buttons. CART didn't
recognize it at all. GPL wouldn't even load(gasp), crashing with an invalid
page fault error. I tried numerous combos of re-installs, re-calibrations,
etc. with no luck. Back to the TM/CH setup and all's well. Emails to Saitek
produced a suggestion to try the R4 in non-digital analog mode, which only
offers single-axis pedals. This didn't interest me, as I use dual-axis pedals
in everything save CPR, and I'd wanted the greater accuracy of the digital
setup. I've seen posts of others using the R4 FF with GPL, so I don't if my
problem will be a common one. And I've since seen a few about problems with
the MS wheel and N2, so some sims may have trouble with digital controllers.
In sum; you may like it if:
-you prefer a wheel with little turning resistance & a light center notch
-you have a hard floor(or some extra plywood)
-you aren't committed to dual axis pedals in everything
-you don't mind rebooting in different modes for different games
I can't say how common my technical glitches might be, but they don't appear
universal. Saitek DID stand behind it and took it back (I bought direct-no
local vendor). Just make sure you can return it if it's not satisfactory; good
advice on any purchase.
Hope this helps,
Steve B.
