with a 720 degree turning radius? I haven't seen them at all in the past,
and it's extremely easy to implement. If no one has done it, I'll try
modifying my one normal (non-FF) wheel to make it turn 720 degrees total.
Thanks,
Alex
Thanks,
Alex
> Are there any racing wheels that turn several times lock to lock? Like ones
> with a 720 degree turning radius? I haven't seen them at all in the past,
> and it's extremely easy to implement. If no one has done it, I'll try
> modifying my one normal (non-FF) wheel to make it turn 720 degrees total.
Grew tired of the unrealistic 210 degree movement of my current setup,
not quite sure if I'll aim for a full 720, I'll probably go for 540(ish)
Beers and cheers
(uncle) Goy
http://www.theuspits.com
"A man is only as old as the woman he feels........"
--Groucho Marx--
Thanks,
Alex
> > Are there any racing wheels that turn several times lock to lock? Like
ones
> > with a 720 degree turning radius? I haven't seen them at all in the
past,
> > and it's extremely easy to implement. If no one has done it, I'll try
> > modifying my one normal (non-FF) wheel to make it turn 720 degrees
total.
> I'm currently working on an idea for one myself Alex, and it's actually
> very easy indeed as you say, I just don't have the time to get the
> mechanical bits sorted right now, but I've got it all figured out in my
> head :-)
> Grew tired of the unrealistic 210 degree movement of my current setup,
> not quite sure if I'll aim for a full 720, I'll probably go for 540(ish)
> Beers and cheers
> (uncle) Goy
> http://www.theuspits.com
> "A man is only as old as the woman he feels........"
> --Groucho Marx--
I'd really like to see it for games like Live For Speed, where the cars
would actually have a few full rotations of wheel travel. Having a gear
ratio of 2:1 on a regular wheel seems like it would give you the perfect
travel for say WRC type cars, or maybe even GT cars (even though I'm not
familiar with the actual setup of those). Also, having to crank the wheel
around a few solid times would be perfect for things like Rally Trophy :)
Mike
http://mikebeauchamp.com
> Thanks,
> Alex
> > > Are there any racing wheels that turn several times lock to lock? Like
> ones
> > > with a 720 degree turning radius? I haven't seen them at all in the
> past,
> > > and it's extremely easy to implement. If no one has done it, I'll try
> > > modifying my one normal (non-FF) wheel to make it turn 720 degrees
> total.
> > I'm currently working on an idea for one myself Alex, and it's actually
> > very easy indeed as you say, I just don't have the time to get the
> > mechanical bits sorted right now, but I've got it all figured out in my
> > head :-)
> > Grew tired of the unrealistic 210 degree movement of my current setup,
> > not quite sure if I'll aim for a full 720, I'll probably go for 540(ish)
> > Beers and cheers
> > (uncle) Goy
> > http://www.theuspits.com
> > "A man is only as old as the woman he feels........"
> > --Groucho Marx--
Thanks,
Alex
> I'd really like to see it for games like Live For Speed, where the cars
> would actually have a few full rotations of wheel travel. Having a gear
> ratio of 2:1 on a regular wheel seems like it would give you the perfect
> travel for say WRC type cars, or maybe even GT cars (even though I'm not
> familiar with the actual setup of those). Also, having to crank the wheel
> around a few solid times would be perfect for things like Rally Trophy :)
> Mike
> http://mikebeauchamp.com
> > Goy, is the e-mail address you have listed your real one? I want to
> contact
> > you off-list.
> > Thanks,
> > Alex
> > > > Are there any racing wheels that turn several times lock to lock?
Like
> > ones
> > > > with a 720 degree turning radius? I haven't seen them at all in the
> > past,
> > > > and it's extremely easy to implement. If no one has done it, I'll
try
> > > > modifying my one normal (non-FF) wheel to make it turn 720 degrees
> > total.
> > > I'm currently working on an idea for one myself Alex, and it's
actually
> > > very easy indeed as you say, I just don't have the time to get the
> > > mechanical bits sorted right now, but I've got it all figured out in
my
> > > head :-)
> > > Grew tired of the unrealistic 210 degree movement of my current setup,
> > > not quite sure if I'll aim for a full 720, I'll probably go for
540(ish)
> > > Beers and cheers
> > > (uncle) Goy
> > > http://www.theuspits.com
> > > "A man is only as old as the woman he feels........"
> > > --Groucho Marx--
> Goy, is the e-mail address you have listed your real one? I want to contact
> you off-list.
Beers and cheers
(uncle) Goy
http://www.theuspits.com
"A man is only as old as the woman he feels........"
--Groucho Marx--
> I see nothing difficult about it, attach a small gear to the steering rack
> (at the end) and move the potentiometer off to the side or to the bottam and
> connect a big gear to that. Then, there you go, a 2:1 or 3:1 ratio.
My wheel is a home made one based on the TSW design, I can't move the
pot meter without doing a major redesign of the frame itself, so we'll
probably end up cutting the steering shaft and put the gears in the
middle somewhere, just tilt both the new rods a bit and we've got the
space for the gears, the angle of the steering shaft is a tad steep so
it will be even better now
Beers and cheers
(uncle) Goy
http://www.theuspits.com
"A man is only as old as the woman he feels........"
--Groucho Marx--
The springs would need to be attached to the final drive piece that turns
the potentiometer, which means that the sproing would have to be stronger
for the same force felt. That adds quite a bit of pressure on the gear and
linkage being used.
Just wondering...
Glen Pittman
> Thanks,
> Alex
> > I thought about doing the same thing actually. Seems like it'd be
easiest
> if
> > you started from scratch making your own wheel, instead of trying to add
> > some sort of gearing to an existing wheel.
> > I'd really like to see it for games like Live For Speed, where the cars
> > would actually have a few full rotations of wheel travel. Having a gear
> > ratio of 2:1 on a regular wheel seems like it would give you the perfect
> > travel for say WRC type cars, or maybe even GT cars (even though I'm not
> > familiar with the actual setup of those). Also, having to crank the
wheel
> > around a few solid times would be perfect for things like Rally Trophy
:)
> > Mike
> > http://mikebeauchamp.com
> > > Goy, is the e-mail address you have listed your real one? I want to
> > contact
> > > you off-list.
> > > Thanks,
> > > Alex
> > > > > Are there any racing wheels that turn several times lock to lock?
> Like
> > > ones
> > > > > with a 720 degree turning radius? I haven't seen them at all in
the
> > > past,
> > > > > and it's extremely easy to implement. If no one has done it, I'll
> try
> > > > > modifying my one normal (non-FF) wheel to make it turn 720 degrees
> > > total.
> > > > I'm currently working on an idea for one myself Alex, and it's
> actually
> > > > very easy indeed as you say, I just don't have the time to get the
> > > > mechanical bits sorted right now, but I've got it all figured out in
> my
> > > > head :-)
> > > > Grew tired of the unrealistic 210 degree movement of my current
setup,
> > > > not quite sure if I'll aim for a full 720, I'll probably go for
> 540(ish)
> > > > Beers and cheers
> > > > (uncle) Goy
> > > > http://www.theuspits.com
> > > > "A man is only as old as the woman he feels........"
> > > > --Groucho Marx--
I haven't heard anything about modifying springs, but when I was looking
into building my wheel I had read about how some people used elastic
ropes,belts,etc. Haven't tried it myself, but you would get tension and
releasing the wheel would bring it back to the center.
-Will
> > How do you make the springs work for return to center so that you get a
> > consistant feel from lock to lock?
> > The springs would need to be attached to the final drive piece that
turns
> > the potentiometer, which means that the sproing would have to be
stronger
> > for the same force felt. That adds quite a bit of pressure on the gear
> and
> > linkage being used.
> > Just wondering...
> > Glen Pittman
> I haven't heard anything about modifying springs, but when I was looking
> into building my wheel I had read about how some people used elastic
> ropes,belts,etc. Haven't tried it myself, but you would get tension and
> releasing the wheel would bring it back to the center.
> -Will
-Will
> > -Will
Atari Hard Drivin' / Race Drivin' had 3 turns lock-to-lock (the arcade
sit-down cabinet). This was done with a 3-turn pot on the end of the
steering column-- much better than any sort of gearing mechanism. I
remember requesting that they select a pot with enough electrical
resolution so a 12-bit A-D would read it continuously (with no skipped
counts in the output). Cost a few bucks more, but was worth it in terms of
the quality of the steering(imo).
Since this was force feedback, there was no reason for a centering spring,
but there was a strong stop to keep from running the pot past the end of
its travel (which would break the pot!)
I'm glad to hear that some people are working on this -- a big failure in
the home wheels that I've tried is the lack of realistic rotational travel.
-- Doug Milliken
www.millikenresearch.com
> > I see nothing difficult about it, attach a small gear to the steering rack
> > (at the end) and move the potentiometer off to the side or to the bottam and
> > connect a big gear to that. Then, there you go, a 2:1 or 3:1 ratio.
> That's pretty much what I'm looking at, my brother is an
> engineer/mechanic and has access to a lathe, a mill (?), welding
> equipment and everything else we need :-)
> My wheel is a home made one based on the TSW design, I can't move the
> pot meter without doing a major redesign of the frame itself, so we'll
> probably end up cutting the steering shaft and put the gears in the
> middle somewhere, just tilt both the new rods a bit and we've got the
> space for the gears, the angle of the steering shaft is a tad steep so
> it will be even better now
> Beers and cheers
> (uncle) Goy
> http://www.theuspits.com
> "A man is only as old as the woman he feels........"
> --Groucho Marx--
> ...there was a strong stop to keep from running the pot past the end of
> its travel (which would break the pot!)
Got any pictures?
Gerald
> Atari Hard Drivin' / Race Drivin' had 3 turns lock-to-lock (the arcade
> sit-down cabinet). This was done with a 3-turn pot on the end of the
> steering column-- much better than any sort of gearing mechanism. I
> remember requesting that they select a pot with enough electrical
> resolution so a 12-bit A-D would read it continuously (with no skipped
> counts in the output). Cost a few bucks more, but was worth it in terms of
> the quality of the steering(imo).
> Since this was force feedback, there was no reason for a centering spring,
> but there was a strong stop to keep from running the pot past the end of
> its travel (which would break the pot!)
Definitely, the overly direct steering input means we have to compensate
for it by reducing the maximum wheel lock, which introduces it's own set
of problems, only this past BR1000 I had at least one spin I could
possibly have avoided with a few degrees more wheel lock, the car
balanced ever so nicely on full opposite lock for a few moments before
gently spinning around
Beers and cheers
(uncle) Goy
"goyl at nettx dot no"
"The Pits" http://www.theuspits.com/
"A man is only as old as the woman he feels"
--Groucho Marx--
Thanks,
Alex
> Atari Hard Drivin' / Race Drivin' had 3 turns lock-to-lock (the arcade
> sit-down cabinet). This was done with a 3-turn pot on the end of the
> steering column-- much better than any sort of gearing mechanism. I
> remember requesting that they select a pot with enough electrical
> resolution so a 12-bit A-D would read it continuously (with no skipped
> counts in the output). Cost a few bucks more, but was worth it in terms
of
> the quality of the steering(imo).
> Since this was force feedback, there was no reason for a centering spring,
> but there was a strong stop to keep from running the pot past the end of
> its travel (which would break the pot!)
> I'm glad to hear that some people are working on this -- a big failure in
> the home wheels that I've tried is the lack of realistic rotational
travel.
> -- Doug Milliken
> www.millikenresearch.com
> > > I see nothing difficult about it, attach a small gear to the steering
rack
> > > (at the end) and move the potentiometer off to the side or to the
bottam and
> > > connect a big gear to that. Then, there you go, a 2:1 or 3:1 ratio.
> > That's pretty much what I'm looking at, my brother is an
> > engineer/mechanic and has access to a lathe, a mill (?), welding
> > equipment and everything else we need :-)
> > My wheel is a home made one based on the TSW design, I can't move the
> > pot meter without doing a major redesign of the frame itself, so we'll
> > probably end up cutting the steering shaft and put the gears in the
> > middle somewhere, just tilt both the new rods a bit and we've got the
> > space for the gears, the angle of the steering shaft is a tad steep so
> > it will be even better now
> > Beers and cheers
> > (uncle) Goy
> > http://www.theuspits.com
> > "A man is only as old as the woman he feels........"
> > --Groucho Marx--