rec.autos.simulators

Logitech Momo - worth risk of buying without trying?

MadDAW

Logitech Momo - worth risk of buying without trying?

by MadDAW » Thu, 25 Apr 2002 19:24:44

I think you got that backwards. The wheel is the big improvment. Other than
the pivot of the pedal themselves the pedals are the same as the LWFF. I
like the MOMO alot better than the LWFF I replaced due to its larger range
of motion.

MadDAWG

Mar

Logitech Momo - worth risk of buying without trying?

by Mar » Thu, 25 Apr 2002 22:30:06


> > I hear these pedals are an improvement over the old LWFF, even if the
> > wheel itself isn't, so I'll keep hold of what I've got.  Thanks for
> > the offer, though, JensSchumi ;)

> > Mark
> > Reading, UK

> I think you got that backwards. The wheel is the big improvment. Other than
> the pivot of the pedal themselves the pedals are the same as the LWFF. I
> like the MOMO alot better than the LWFF I replaced due to its larger range
> of motion.

> MadDAWG

I don't speak from any sort of experience, it's just that the general
consensus -appeared to me- to be that the original LWFF was a nicer,
smoother unit.

Me?  I adore the feel of the MOMO in the hands, but after years of
bungee driven Thrustmasters, FF is taking some getting used to.

How much punishment can these babies take?  I like the idea of really
having to work hard at the wheel - like karting.

Mark
Reading, UK

MadDAW

Logitech Momo - worth risk of buying without trying?

by MadDAW » Thu, 25 Apr 2002 22:58:09

While the original LWFF was smoother than the MOMO it did not have the
bearings on the steering shaft and I son got a bunch of slop in it. Kinda
like a wore out Chevy tilt steering column. The original LWFF was a cable
driven FF vs. the MOMO's gear drive, hence the smoothness. The LWFF had a
problem of overheating and shutting off the FF. I'm think they switched to
the gear drive because of that. I'm guess the gear drive takes alot less
power to run over the cable setup based on the size difference of the power
transformers. I never had any problems with the LWFF pedals so I don't
foresee any problems with the MOMO's. The wheel feels 10 times better than
the LWFF, other than the smoothness. I've had mine for about 4-6 weeks now
and I don't even notice it any more.

I have a trick for the brake to keep from locking up the brakes in GPL. I
calibrate the brake pedal in the game, and then go back to the Wingman
profiler and adjust the brake pedal axis travel down a notch. Basically what
this does is the game sees the axis as being from 0-255 but the pedal will
only top out at around 200 when full depressed. This does cut down on your
overall braking, but if your locking the brakes and sliding your not doing
any good with the extra effort.

MadDAWG

Mar

Logitech Momo - worth risk of buying without trying?

by Mar » Fri, 26 Apr 2002 03:26:51

Nice tip!  Thanks, MadDAWG.

Mark
Reading, UK


> I have a trick for the brake to keep from locking up the brakes in GPL. I
> calibrate the brake pedal in the game, and then go back to the Wingman
> profiler and adjust the brake pedal axis travel down a notch. Basically what
> this does is the game sees the axis as being from 0-255 but the pedal will
> only top out at around 200 when full depressed. This does cut down on your
> overall braking, but if your locking the brakes and sliding your not doing
> any good with the extra effort.

> MadDAWG

Dave Henri

Logitech Momo - worth risk of buying without trying?

by Dave Henri » Fri, 26 Apr 2002 09:06:15


  I do the exact opposite for the throttle.  I notch down my wheel software
one tick and then load the game.  Calibrate the pedals and usually get 255
for an upper reading.  Then I go BACK to the wheel software and extend the
travel back to 100%.  This way, I hope, I get full use of the throttle
settings. in the game...my pedal will hit 256 when not being restricted.
dave henrie

> Mark
> Reading, UK




J

Logitech Momo - worth risk of buying without trying?

by J » Sat, 27 Apr 2002 22:37:00

don't mind the typos oand disregard the insults, I'm quite drunk already. and
thais sh''t notebook ketboard you cand send to orbit anyhow...

Overheatung ids only a problem for later lwffs, comes from a lo0usy themistor on
the board./.. can be corrected easily.

ball bearings is the keyword. whatever makes your wheelshaft steady and the
movement smooth, is the right thing. I still think (have to, of couese ;-) that
the cable driven wheel combined with BB's is the better one <grin>

About the pedals: since I modified my ones, I don't mind short thriow or what
soever as longh as the brake pedal acts virtually pressure sensitive. Haveno
idea trhough, why people are rather looking for larger throw than for more
realistic acting, nevermind

Hmm,.. just readf your brake trick.
Buffer your brak epedal stop with something half-soft and you get an even better
result.
Now I'm getting anothert beer, cheers.

JensSchumi


>While the original LWFF was smoother than the MOMO it did not have the
>bearings on the steering shaft and I son got a bunch of slop in it. Kinda
>like a wore out Chevy tilt steering column. The original LWFF was a cable
>driven FF vs. the MOMO's gear drive, hence the smoothness. The LWFF had a
>problem of overheating and shutting off the FF. I'm think they switched to
>the gear drive because of that. I'm guess the gear drive takes alot less
>power to run over the cable setup based on the size difference of the power
>transformers. I never had any problems with the LWFF pedals so I don't
>foresee any problems with the MOMO's. The wheel feels 10 times better than
>the LWFF, other than the smoothness. I've had mine for about 4-6 weeks now
>and I don't even notice it any more.

>I have a trick for the brake to keep from locking up the brakes in GPL. I
>calibrate the brake pedal in the game, and then go back to the Wingman
>profiler and adjust the brake pedal axis travel down a notch. Basically what
>this does is the game sees the axis as being from 0-255 but the pedal will
>only top out at around 200 when full depressed. This does cut down on your
>overall braking, but if your locking the brakes and sliding your not doing
>any good with the extra effort.

>MadDAWG

nd

---------------------------------------------
LWFF Ball Bearing conversion at:
http://jensschumi.tripod.com/

GPLRank: -14.82
Monsters of GPL: sub 95

J

Logitech Momo - worth risk of buying without trying?

by J » Sat, 27 Apr 2002 22:37:01

sh..t,
again no chance to try the Momo.
Anyhow, enjoy :-)

JensSchumi


<snip>

---------------------------------------------
LWFF Ball Bearing conversion at:
http://jensschumi.tripod.com/

GPLRank: -14.82
Monsters of GPL: sub 95

MadDAW

Logitech Momo - worth risk of buying without trying?

by MadDAW » Sat, 27 Apr 2002 23:08:54

Never heard that before must be a well kept secret with all the complaints
about the FF shutting off over the years.

Ball bearing are a big plus, no doubt. Unfortunatly not eveyone has the
means to make mods to their equipment. I saw a BB kit for the LWFF but since
it had to come across the pond it was about half the cost of the MOMO
without installation.

The longer throw gives you better control on the amount of braking you get.
The same amont of foot travel on a pedal with twice the travel is only half
the distance.

That does just the opposite of my "trick". My trick simulates a longer pedal
travel [at the expence of full braking, but thats usally lock up anyway.]
stuffing anything under the pedal actualy shortens the pedal travel, and I
want more travel.

Lucky bastard! I'm stuck at "work" :(

MadDAWG

J

Logitech Momo - worth risk of buying without trying?

by J » Mon, 29 Apr 2002 20:13:45

Ohhhh, big headache today ;-)


>Never heard that before must be a well kept secret with all the complaints
>about the FF shutting off over the years.

No big secret, must be somewhere on my website

I know that, so to my advantage I have the BB-kits right out of my workshop <g>
Problem is that international money transfer is ***y expensive. Can be eased
by collective orders, which we did already for US and UK

Got that.
What I mean are pedals where the brake modulation doesn't come from the throw,
but from the pressure applied at full throw. It's like the real thing: You apply
full brake-throw and modulate the pressure for altering the brake-strength (Hope
you understand my lousy transation)

Cya
Jens

---------------------------------------------
LWFF Ball Bearing conversion at:
http://www.racesimcentral.net/

GPLRank: -14.82
Monsters of GPL: sub 95


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