rec.autos.simulators

Anyway I am curious :-)

Also, I am down to 1:37.2 at monza. Mostly I notice the computer
cars can brake much later than I can which is why they are faster.
I set the camber properly (I thought as the tire temp are more even)
but the braking seems elusive at the moment :0

Thanks!

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Header address intentionally scrambled to ward off the spamming hordes.

cisko [AT] ix [DOT] netcom [DOT] com

  Some places in Monza (especially into Parabolica) they just can brake
harder (although the 1.1 patch should fix this apparently.  You
should be able to brake just after the first red sign on the wire on the
left.  As your tyres get hotter you will be able to brake later.

  The most critical thing is brake balace.  If the brakes are too heavy
in front then the fronts will lock before the rears and you will lose
steering and also braking efficiency.  If the brakes are too heavy in
the rear then the back end will slide out easily sending you into a
spin.  (You stop pretty efficiently in the latter case - but only
because you smack into something solid).

  Try d/l-ing a set up from the internet before developing your own?  It
may sound like cheating but when I was trying to develop set ups, I
found myself making set ups that were more and more comfortable and more
and more sloooooow.  I eventually found a set up that was about 2 secs
off my fastest time but I almost never went off track with it...  ho hum

--
Richard G. Clegg     Only the mind is waving
Dept. of Mathematics (Network Control group) Uni. of York.

www: http://manor.york.ac.uk/top.html

Assuming you've turned off braking help, the key to braking is to press
the brakes right down to begin with, then gradually release them as you
hear tyre squeal, so that you avoid locking the wheels.

It seems that the tyres have less grip at lower speeds, which is why you
have to release the brakes.  I don't know the physical reason for this,
but would be interested to find out!

You may also have to let the brakes off even further (or perhaps use
some throttle) if the back end starts to come round to the front!

Make sure you brake in a straight line - it's probably not a good idea
to get into trail braking just yet, so you should aim to be fully off
the brakes when you turn into the corner.

For future reference: I think trail braking is an advantage at Monza -
the theory is that you carry on braking into the corner, but be aware
that you have to trade off braking for turning (you must release the
brakes more as you turn more).  You'll also have to be ready with the
throttle if the car starts to spin round!

I set my brake bias more toward the rear so I can *almost* just mash the
brake and I don't lock up the fronts.  You can produce full braking at
speed but reduce pressure while the car slows.  My setups page has 1.0
setups but you can check them out if you wish.

Jason.

Remco

Presumably you get more stopping power because all four wheels can be
taken to their limits if you have more even brake balance (ie. less
biased towards the front).

You still need some front bias, as more weight goes onto the fronts so
they can take more braking before locking.

Did I get all that right?

Well i managed to do 1:31's with 2 joysticks and the default (1.1)
setup and i'm not a hotlapper - as you can tell by 1:31 anyway ;)
If you're using driving aid disable them - especially accel & break as
they really slow you down (and might influence FF?)

Maybe you should d/l some other ppls replays and use a tool
like GPLDump to compare your laps and see where you are loosing
time.

HTH

Martin

Joe McGinn
==========================================
Staff Writer for the Sports *** Network
http://www.racesimcentral.net/***.com/
==========================================

I have been braking befor the big white sign or whatever it is.
I'll chekc your brake marker though.

Yes, I know. I had tried everything up to 85% and still I would
either lock up and keep sliding forward or snap the rear around.
If I brake very early with the default setup and the brake bias
set to 70% I can have a good run

..

I did try Alison's Monza ferrari setup and was amazed at the brake
bias setting of 58%. I did notice that I was able to manage the turns
much better though but still only did several 1:38's. I am thinking of
bumping up the brake bias and trying it out again.
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cisko [AT] ix [DOT] netcom [DOT] com

Ewwww... I didn't know about that. I think I'll give it a try. I suppose
you are going to tell me this is impossible with the Logitech
pedals. It may also be impossible until the brake/gas axis is split.

Thanks for the info though. It is appreciated.

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Overall Effects  100-120%
Spring 100%
Damper  70%

Center Spring off, Center set at 0%

core.ini settings:
[ Joy ]
allow_force_feedback = 1                 ; Use FF if device has it
force_feedback_damping = 0.000000        ; force feedback damping coefficient
force_feedback_latency = 0.085000        ; force feedback latency (secs)
max_steering_torque = 75.000000          ; steering torque in N*in giving max
device force

Also I set the brakes at med. high sensitivity and low for dead zone.  This
really helps get the full play out of the brakes before they lock up, (with bias
set at about 57-58%)

throttle is set at high sensitivity and med dead zone...

With these settings I can turn 1:32 at Monza in Ali's Ferrari (after about 15
hours of use with the LWFF)  Getting a good feel for the brake has been the
hardest aspect of the LWFF system, but the above setup helped alot...still
working on it though...

hth

kirk

Hi Greg, i guess it is hard for me to comment on FF wheels and braking,
cause i don't have a FF wheel, but i can't see how FF would change my
braking style, in as much as i tend to run the bias at 52 to 55
percent.
The only thing you need to be a bit more particular about with brake
bias that low, is that your lines into corners have to be a bit more
accurate, but the added braking efficiency will more than compensate
for any feeling of loosness that occurs if you get off line in the
approach to the corner.
Besides, it comes in handy as a primitive form of trail-braking, (i
don't have seperate axis's) as you can swing the rear of the car into
the corner and be on the power coming out of the corner much earlier
than higher brake bias settings will allow..
It is good though, having actual mechanical & inertial physics do what
you expect them to do, this is where GPL shines, IMO.
Glad your enjoying GPL, see you on-line soon..  <G>
Cheers,
Ron

It is simple to split the pedal axis with the Logitech. Get the Game
Controller window up, either through the Profiler or control panel. Select
the Logitech, and click on properties, then settings. Make sure the
"Combined (single axis - used for most games)" is unchecked. You have split
axis gas and brake!

Kevin Caldwell
Calgary, Canada

My Logitech FF settings that seem to work reasonably well without requiring
weight training are:

Profiler:
Overall = 100
Spring = 100
Damping = 70

core.ini
force_feedback_damping = 10.000000
force_feedback_latency = 0.085000
max_steering_torque = 150.000000