>I have two setups for Lotus. One with
>ramp angles 85/30 and 4 clutches, another
>60/45 and 1 clutch. The rest is more or less the
>same. I don't feel any particular problem with
>any of these setups and I have best lap times
>approximately the same. However, with 85/30 +
>4 clutches I can do consistent laps, while with
>60/45 I can not (I am not crashing or spinning,
>but lap times vary much more).
>Any ideas what am I doing wrong?
>Thanks in advance,
>Alex
>(alexti)
Hi Alex,
I've read the following 2 posts also. I as going to reply
and say that as you change ramp-angles significantly
you also need to adjust your driving. If you could "record"
a script of controller movement at 85/30 and "play" it
back with 60/45/1 you'd be no quicker.
I read all the stuff about diff & ramp angles and
stuff. I looked at very detailed diagrams and
pictures etc and I do understand the concept of
the Limited Slip Diff but my question was "well what
does it FELL like, HOW can I drive with it and HOW
can it make me quicker.
My first outing in an F1 car with 45/85/1 setting
was a disaster and I never did get to grips with
it and thought it was totally unrealistic.
However, since driving FD cars I found that I
could ease my way into these.
I started with 60/45/1's and 60/60/1s and liked
the feeling they gave me, but they didn't make me
any faster.
Now I generally use 45/85/1 and I can more
readilly feel the effects AND use them.
It seems to me from a purely feel point of view that
reversing the more usual 85/45/ gives me two
very useful things.
The ability to provoke more readilly and effectively
Lift-Off Oversteer and Power-On Oversteer. I think
the single clutch helps this also but have not really
experimented.
The big problem with GPL and possibly 67 era
GP cars as a whole was very bad understeer.
An understeering car is generally safer but slower,
and I've heard that that is the reason the default setups
where created as they were.
I understand the 45/85/1 arrangement is more realistic
as to what was run at the time on the real GP cars
(although I've no idea where I picked this info up
from).
So, if you have a car that turns in better and more
decisively, you can generally brake a little later.
If you have a car that does not PUSH or understeer
under power you can get on the power a little earlier.
Both of these are very desirable and will result in
quicker lap times ASSUMING the driver is exploiting
these characteristics to the full.
If you have a car that is prone to severe lift-off
oversteer, you need to be more precise and gentle
with your transistion from gas to brake (essentially
avoid the on-off approach).
If you have a car that is going to oversteer under power
then you'd better be very, very precise with the throttle
application. Too much, your history, too little and you
are not exploiting that particular handling trait.
I'd try a track you know really well, one that you
can put in fairly consistent lap times at. Try going
45/60/1 and "play" with the car in the corners, easing
off the gas a little, pressing it a bit more, see what
effect it has on the car.
The Lo/Hi arrangement also can cause much more
instability under braking and you may need to keep a little
gas on as you brake (so you really need to be left-foot
braking to do that). If you don't want to do this, or can't
you could try adding some stability by setting the front
toe to quite a high -ve value (i.e. -3.5) and the rear to
a medium high +ve value (say +2.00). Under normal
circumstances this would effect the speed of the car
negatively, but this is not modelled in GPL.
The bottom line is, as Jan has said, that it will take time
to begin to exploit these type of setups.
Maxx
PS. There is a good section in GPL Race Engineer
which explains more about what the diff does and how
it theoretically effect the car. Also some more technical
stuff as GPL Foolishness (Nunnini's).