> Eh, you're just a KID...<g>
> (40 in 2003)
> Eldred
> --
> Homepage - http://www.racesimcentral.net/~epickett
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Just thought I'd chip in with something not mentioned yet (unless I
missed a post). It's VERY important to apply the brakes gradually.
What I mean is don't stamp on them to their full travel at the moment
you wish to brake. This essentially causes massive weight shift
forward, which is harder to "brake" against, hence you generally
have your "full travel" set at about 80% of potential braking force
to avoid lock up. By "set at" I mean you've either got the squash
ball, or other method of restricting travel OR your foot is just
educated at that level.
If you press the brake at 10% for a split second, just to compress
the springs, then squeeze it to maximum, you will end up being
able to use more braking force than you could before for the
later part of the braking.
This is not going to stop those folks flying by you under braking
as they are no doubt experts at gas+brake but it does work to
lower lap times,. even if you end up braking a fraction earlier
at first, until you get used to it.
Coming off the brake properly is equally important, don't jump
off it at the moment of turn in, or you'll decrease your potential
cornering grip by at least 20%, you need to ease off it AS you
turn in (this isn't "specifically" trail-braking).
Maxx
PS. I know it's been a while since I posted here. I still read r.a.s.
regularly but rarely have the time to post.
> >2 - I get punted by the trailing car. The excuse being, "You braked WAY
too
> >early!"
> And, this just happened in a race last night at Silverstone(end of Hangar
> Straight. Fortunately, the other driver was on the side of me instead of
> behind me. I hit the brakes *later* than my normal braking point, and
STILL
> caught him unawares. He shot past me like I was standing still.
Frustrating,
> dammit...
> Eldred
> --
> Homepage - http://www.umich.edu/~epickett
> Member
> Screamers Racing League
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> >Absolutely, Dawg. My ECCI pedals were worth a second or two a lap almost
> >anywhere in GPL, and the TSW pedals I use with my Logi MOMO wheel are
> >likewise indispensible equipment. You can't *begin* to modulate
threshold
> >braking with the flimsy, short-throw plastic pedals that come with most
> >wheels. Also, most third-party/aftermarket wheels allow you to very the
> >pedal pressure (ECCI had a pneumatic device that allowed you to adjust
for a
> >*progressively* stiffer pedal), which is critical for dialing in the best
> >*feel*.
> >> > I also don't think it's equipment.
> >> I have no idea what type of wheel/pedal setup you have, but I just
ditched
> >> my red MOMO for a MSFF, and it made a world of differance.
> I don't think it's equipment either. But, I've never had the chance to
drive
> someone else's rig, and vice-versa. There may be something wrong in my
setup
> that would slap someone else in the face because it's so obvious. But
with
> nothing else to compare it to...
> Eldred
> --
> Homepage - http://www.umich.edu/~epickett
> Member
> Screamers Racing League
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> > Also, being able to brake whilst turning in is crucial as well. This
will
> >make a huge difference to anyone not presently doing this. And, of
course,
> >the deeper the better.
> For me, braking whilst turning usually results in me suddenly sliding
backwards
> towards an immovable object.
> Eldred
> --
> Homepage - http://www.umich.edu/~epickett
> Member
> Screamers Racing League
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Well, I'd say they are the easiest - most definantly not the most
important. If you stuff up the turn in then you have also stuffed up mid
corner and all that can possibly be ok is exit. A good turn in is critical
to any corner and usually sets the tone for a good all around (nice pun
here) corner.
> > >Absolutely, Dawg. My ECCI pedals were worth a second or two a lap
almost
> > >anywhere in GPL, and the TSW pedals I use with my Logi MOMO wheel are
> > >likewise indispensible equipment. You can't *begin* to modulate
> threshold
> > >braking with the flimsy, short-throw plastic pedals that come with most
> > >wheels. Also, most third-party/aftermarket wheels allow you to very
the
> > >pedal pressure (ECCI had a pneumatic device that allowed you to adjust
> for a
> > >*progressively* stiffer pedal), which is critical for dialing in the
best
> > >*feel*.
> > >> > I also don't think it's equipment.
> > >> I have no idea what type of wheel/pedal setup you have, but I just
> ditched
> > >> my red MOMO for a MSFF, and it made a world of differance.
> > I don't think it's equipment either. But, I've never had the chance to
> drive
> > someone else's rig, and vice-versa. There may be something wrong in my
> setup
> > that would slap someone else in the face because it's so obvious. But
> with
> > nothing else to compare it to...
> > Eldred
> > --
> > Homepage - http://www.umich.edu/~epickett
> > Member
> > Screamers Racing League
> > IICC League
> > GPLRank -6.0 MoGPL rank +267.80
> > ChallengeRank +52.58 MoC +741.71
> > Hist. +82.34 MoH in progress
> > N2k3 rank:in progress
> > Remove SPAM-OFF to reply.
> > For me, braking whilst turning usually results in me suddenly sliding
> backwards
> > towards an immovable object.
> > Eldred
Sean
The pedals are definitely important. My ECCI Trackstar 3000 made a huge
difference.
Achim
Where can I get a good squash ball to use for the mod? I looked at the
local mall and I couldn't find one.
Thanks,
Shock
> Well, I'd say they are the easiest - most definantly not the most important.
> If you stuff up the turn in then you have also stuffed up mid corner and all
> that can possibly be ok is exit. A good turn in is critical to any corner and
> usually sets the tone for a good all around (nice pun here) corner.
>
If you miss the turn in you are NOT on the proper line, so yes you have messed
up the turn. "The line" goes whole way around the track including the entry to
the corners, where you apex, exit, and the sections in between. And if you don't
think the line is important then try driving only using the inside half of the
track sometime and see if it affects you laptimes. :-)
> > Just thought I'd chip in with something not mentioned yet (unless I
> > missed a post). It's VERY important to apply the brakes gradually.
> > What I mean is don't stamp on them to their full travel at the moment
> > you wish to brake. This essentially causes massive weight shift
> > forward, which is harder to "brake" against, hence you generally
> > have your "full travel" set at about 80% of potential braking force
> > to avoid lock up. By "set at" I mean you've either got the squash
> > ball, or other method of restricting travel OR your foot is just
> > educated at that level.
> > If you press the brake at 10% for a split second, just to compress
> > the springs, then squeeze it to maximum, you will end up being
> > able to use more braking force than you could before for the
> > later part of the braking.
> > This is not going to stop those folks flying by you under braking
> > as they are no doubt experts at gas+brake but it does work to
> > lower lap times,. even if you end up braking a fraction earlier
> > at first, until you get used to it.
> > Coming off the brake properly is equally important, don't jump
> > off it at the moment of turn in, or you'll decrease your potential
> > cornering grip by at least 20%, you need to ease off it AS you
> > turn in (this isn't "specifically" trail-braking).
> > Maxx
> > PS. I know it's been a while since I posted here. I still read r.a.s.
> > regularly but rarely have the time to post.
I was running some Norisring with Ginger and man o man he could take some of
those turns wide and still have grip. When I got out there I was sliding
all over which ends up slowing me down. I think trail braking is what Im
missing although Ive been playing around with the technique Im still
somewhat out of control. Part of my problem may be my current AL Perf
pedals though.
Mitch
