does anybody from the setup experts can tell what the optimum tire
temperature is and when a tire will loose grip because of overheating?
Sometimes I can see that tire temp drops when I stiffen the ARB. That is
against my experience I have with modern F1 setups.
Jo Lueg
Somewhere between 200 and 250 is the optimum temp.
Anything above 250 and you'll start to lose grip.
Some people say that the tyres get uncontrollable at 270, but from my
experience in hotlapping, if one tyre temp hits exactly 300 or more,
the car then becomes undrivable, and you'll be doing donuts in no
time.
As to the arb q, not sure how hard your driving the car with the
stiffer arb, but generally, higher arb's increase tyre temps.
Setting it to 200 front and back will increase tyre temps quite a bit.
And at a track like zandy, I can overheat the rears within laps. But
on monza or spa it is ok.
Generally, 150 arb front and rear is a good compromise.
Ian Lake
;-)
---Asgeir---
> Generally, 150 arb front and rear is a good compromise.
> ;-)
Don't we all love this...hehe
Matt
> ---Asgeir---
> > Generally, 150 arb front and rear is a good compromise.
Cheek Racing Cars
http://www.cheekracing.electra.no
So you think that the ARBs of that day had very coarse adjustment? I
would think so, the original antiroll bar is really only a bar that
pulls/pushes the tires on the axis the same way as the forced tyre, so
that the car creeps towards the track instead of rolling to one side...
And the specific damping of the bar came later, perhaps during the early
seventies?
And, BTW, I was referring to the stiffnesses in question, using a VERY
stiff ARB both front and in particular rear would be quite slippery in
practice, I'm sure about that...
---Asgeir---
> > Sorry, that's not realistic.
> > ;-)
> LOL! True!
> Either full, 50%, or off were more likely back then, and still is!!
> Don't we all love this...hehe
?
But I am quite familiar with grip mechanics, Ron, but thanks anyway for
the explanation on why soft arbs create more grip... ;-)
And that same explanation tells us why you need soft arbs in very slow
curves, and stiff ones in high speed curves... In order to get grip in
those slow turns, you need to load the outside tires, and the low speed
makes this very difficult with stiff arbs... I guess this simply has to
do with geometry: sentripethal (do you say that in English, btw?) force
is a square function of speed, but radius is of the first order...
Anyway, I think that all sims up to know have simulated the stiff/soft
setup and grip slightly wrong, a GP car from -67 with fully stiff arbs,
fully stiff springs and dampers would really be undriveable, but you can
get this to work (in its own way) with GPL...
Cheers!
---Asgeir---
> Your right Asgeir, the tighter the roll bars, the less grip there is
> available, but tighter sway bars will result in a chassis that responds
> to steering input a lot quicker and more precise than a soft sway bar
> setup will.
> Well to be exact, the grip level only increases with softer say bars
> because the suspension can load up the outside tyres at a much higher
> rate than it can if the sway bars are tighter.
> The more a tyre is loaded, the more adhesion levels increase, untill
> the point is reached where tyre and tarmac can no longer create
> cohesion, resulting in slip.
> Balancing the sway bars to create cohesion and slip on the tyres is a
> major part of setting up a car.
> This is of course just a small part of balancing the suspension to work
> with the sway bar settings.
> Cheers,
> Ron
