rec.autos.simulators

rms

Oh please... T2's were pretty good for their day, but to hold on to one in
this day and age is really behind the times. Near the end of it's usefull
life I was spending more time mending the damn thing than actually driving.
Went FF and never looked back.

If it's too hard to control turn the ***y strenght down... it this some
sort of macho thing? -No one in an online race can tell you're limp wristing
it, you know. ;-))

Jan.
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"It's for the fun." - Gilles Panizzi

When I set up a new wheel, the first thing I do is get rid of the
oscillation. For SIMPLICITY when setting up a wheel, think of the damping in
core.ini as overall ff strength. Strictly speaking, it's not, but it behaves
as though it is. Think of  torque as damping. Again, it's not, but it
behaves as though it is and this WILL help you set up your wheel.
Set the damping at some low number. Zero is too low so I usually start at
about 30. You just want to pick a number that won't add that notchy feeling
to your wheel, and, when setting the torque to eliminate oscillation, it
doesn't really matter what this is set at. Once the oscillation is
eliminated, it will stay eliminated regardless of your damping setting (how
strong you set the force).
Now, set your steering torque at about 200 and give it a test drive. The
first thing you want to do is be able to take your hands off the wheel while
blasting down a straight. That should be fairly easy to do. If you can't,
set the torque higher, to 250 or 300 and give it a try. Eventually you want
to end up with a wheel that will not oscillate, even with a slight nudge
(just enough to see it move on the screen), but will oscillate if you give
it a stronger nudge. On my TM Ferrari, this is set at 325. On my other
wheels, that use belts or cables, it's quite different.
Once you have the torque set properly, the rest is pretty easy (and very
subjective). Start raising the damping value until you get the feeling you
like. Eventually the wheel will either get too hard to turn, or it starts
feeling notchy. I wouldn't make is so strong that you have to fight the
corners or it pulls too hard when you brush the curbs. My best lap times
always come with a fairly light feel to the wheel. A higher value in the
damping setting means more electricity will go to the ff motor. The notchy
feeling is caused by the motor's armature stacks passing by the magnets.
If you feel the wheel is too light and doesn't center as much as you'd like,
but higher damping values cause notchiness, you can add some Default Spring
in the controller panel. As long as you don't go overboard, it won't hurt
your useful feedback.  One signal is simply added to the other. It doesn't
cancel it out (though it may feel that way if you add too much).

I really hope some of this helps.

--
Slot

Tweaks & Reviews
www.slottweak.com

--

"Boy! You've got to have really big attachments to try a pass there... and
make it."
- David Hobbs

mark

<snip>

Thanks again

[snip]

Many thanks to all that responded and particular thanks to Bo, Jan and
especially Slot. I have achieved the impossible and got FF working to my
liking in GPL. Slot's methodology is definitely he way to go - those silly
***s at Papy have most definitely got torque and damping confused in some
obscure way. Using Slot's guide I have managed settings which have no
strange oscillations, no spikes near centre, good thump off walls, gentle
feedback on grass and tightening/loosening on spins.

For those with similar problems, I ended up with:

Wingman: all at zero except strength - 100%
GPL: damping 2500, torque 750, latency 10ms, (wheel linearity 85%)

However, I've now come across another problem. Buoyed by my GPL success, I
reckoned it would be simple to replicate this 'feel' in NR2002. No chance!
The two biggest problems are a very notchy force effect (e.g. turning the
wheel whilst stationary feels like gears are slipping as the tension slips
up and down - very jerky) and a ludicrous degree of oscillation. The damping
and latency sliders appear to have little effect on either of these
symptoms. I can replicate my preferred level of force by setting the force
slider to 25% (yeah, I know, I'm a weakling) but there seems to be no
combination of sliders which will get rid of either the jerkiness or
oscillations. Any ideas, suggestions much appreciated :)

Thanks again to all

Part of this is settings part of this is the nature of the beast. Due to
camber and castor setting steering will "tip over" slightly when turned from
side to side while stationary.

The amount of force feedback felt is highly dependant on the steering ratio
in the setup.

I've found the MOMO responds better to a latency setting in the 30ms range.
You can also try turning down the linearity setting a bit (no lower than 80%
tho').

Jan.
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cya