rec.autos.simulators

by **Steve Smit** » Wed, 05 Jun 2002 21:39:36

Somebody could probably make a nice "chop shop" business out of buying up
unserviceable Logi products, canibalizing them for parts, and selling the
remains to guys like us who can't get any satisfaction from Logi.

> If you don't fry the cirquit board your LWFF should be working for a
looooong
> time.
> One typical fault are off-jumping cables, when the plastic bushings get
too
> slacky. This can damage the plastic pulleys on long terms.
> Since you are on BB's already, this should not be an issue for you.
> Pots wear out naturally, but MikeT's HQ spare pots should take care of
that.
> MikeT also converted the wheel paddles to proper switches instead of this
lousy
> diphragm-thingies.
> Spare cables are available too, sooner or later you need them.

> So, no need to worry :-)

> Cya
> JensSchumi

> BTW: Probably the right time to browse ebay for a spare unit? They are
still
> around and quite cheap.

> >I am curious to why you can't get the red LWFF to work in XP too. Try
> >downloading the beta 4.20 wingman drivers. They fixed a problem I had
with
> >N2002. My wheel has Jens bearing kit and a high quality pot installed
along
> >with new buttons for the shifters. I agree about the pedals. They do
really
> >suck. I wired in the same CH pedals Alison Hine did for GPL, but I don't
> >think they sell that version anymore. I still think the LWFF red's cable
> >system is better than the notchy feeling MOMO. I also have been tempted
many
> >times to just buy a new wheel but always have found a way to get the old
red
> >to work. I think I would cry if ever something broke on the wheel that I
> >could not fix!

> >FatnSlo

> >4.20 drivers: http://www.racesimcentral.net/

> ---------------------------------------------
> LWFF Ball Bearing conversion at:
> http://www.racesimcentral.net/

> GPLRank: -14.82
> Monsters of GPL: sub 95

by **Dave Henri** » Wed, 05 Jun 2002 22:24:03

just deals is still selling reconditioned LWFF's. I had mine for over
two years and it worked great, til I decided to try and 'fix' it
more....still got all the pieces in a cardboard box....Seems I repair things
about as well as I drive.
dave henrie

by **FatnSl** » Thu, 06 Jun 2002 04:40:57

Hi Jens! I Believe I was one of the first to buy a bearing kit from you.
After a bit of a hassle with the funds I ended up sending you some of it in
cash if you can remember that. Anyways, I love the bearing kit. Because it
was one of the originals I did have the problem of the small spindle
collapsing, but I took a bearing from one of my RC cars and gouged out the
inside of the spindle to make it fit so now the cable does not jump over
itself. I am a bit worried though because the spindle did crack a little,
but it seems ok so far.

From my understating Mike T is no longer in the pot and pedal business. I
bought one of his last two pots. It did not last long though. Because of the
taper machined to the shaft of the pot I don't think I filed it down enough
and ended up forcing it in. I believe I damaged the pot internally because
when I turn the pot to the far left the raw numbers begin to jump way up
instead of going smoothly down. I found a large electronics part store in my
area that had lots of high quality 100k pots so I have a lifetime supply at
only $1.50ea.

A question on the CH 100K pots though. I have bought two so far and I can't
use them. From 0k to 100k the pot only travels 225 degrees while the other
pots I found take 360 degrees from 0k to 100k. Anyone you know that has
tried to use these successfully?

Last week I installed some switches I bought from Radio Shack for my
shifters. The old tin ones had cracked, so now I have trouble free shifting
again!

Thanks for the tip about e-bay. Hopefully I can find one so I will have no
worries!

Thanks,
FatnSlo
aka Steve Adams

> If you don't fry the cirquit board your LWFF should be working for a
looooong
> time.
> One typical fault are off-jumping cables, when the plastic bushings get
too
> slacky. This can damage the plastic pulleys on long terms.
> Since you are on BB's already, this should not be an issue for you.
> Pots wear out naturally, but MikeT's HQ spare pots should take care of
that.
> MikeT also converted the wheel paddles to proper switches instead of this
lousy
> diphragm-thingies.
> Spare cables are available too, sooner or later you need them.

> So, no need to worry :-)

> Cya
> JensSchumi

> BTW: Probably the right time to browse ebay for a spare unit? They are
still
> around and quite cheap.

> >I am curious to why you can't get the red LWFF to work in XP too. Try
> >downloading the beta 4.20 wingman drivers. They fixed a problem I had
with
> >N2002. My wheel has Jens bearing kit and a high quality pot installed
along
> >with new buttons for the shifters. I agree about the pedals. They do
really
> >suck. I wired in the same CH pedals Alison Hine did for GPL, but I don't
> >think they sell that version anymore. I still think the LWFF red's cable
> >system is better than the notchy feeling MOMO. I also have been tempted
many
> >times to just buy a new wheel but always have found a way to get the old
red
> >to work. I think I would cry if ever something broke on the wheel that I
> >could not fix!

> >FatnSlo

> >4.20 drivers: http://www.wingmanteam.com/files/releases/4_20/beta/

> ---------------------------------------------
> LWFF Ball Bearing conversion at:
> http://jensschumi.tripod.com/

> GPLRank: -14.82
> Monsters of GPL: sub 95

by **Steve Smit** » Thu, 06 Jun 2002 04:43:34

Hmmmn, I wonder who's doing the "reconditioning"? I think they have
child-labor laws in Switzerland....

> > Somebody could probably make a nice "chop shop" business out of buying
up
> > unserviceable Logi products, canibalizing them for parts, and selling
the
> > remains to guys like us who can't get any satisfaction from Logi.

> just deals is still selling reconditioned LWFF's. I had mine for over
> two years and it worked great, til I decided to try and 'fix' it
> more....still got all the pieces in a cardboard box....Seems I repair
things
> about as well as I drive.
> dave henrie

by **Larr** » Thu, 06 Jun 2002 04:55:13

That's IN warranty. How about OUT of warranty...

Of course they have to fix it in warranty. It's the law :)

-Larry

> Microsoft's policy is to take in broken or non-working hardware in
exchange
> for the same or newer version. The telephone number is in the material
> received with the item. I've had to replace three of the IntelliMouse
> Optical Explorer mice because of the problem with the cord. They ship it,
> generally two-day delivery, by Airborne in the U.S.
> --
> Chris H.

> > I'm glad the MSFFW is so reliable. Can you even _imagine_ trying to get
> > service or parts on an MS hardware product?

> > I bought the Best Buy $9.95 "Bring it in broke, and walk out with a new
> one"
> > warranty when I got my MSFFW.

> > It paid big on the ratty Logitech FF GP I bought. Had to use it twice
in
> > one week! Finally, we both gave up and I just returned it completely
and
> > got another MSFFW instead :)

> > -Larry

by **Steve Smit** » Thu, 06 Jun 2002 09:20:51

Hi Steve,

Somehow this doesn't read like an unbridled endor***t of the LWFF....

--anotherSteve

> Hi Jens! I Believe I was one of the first to buy a bearing kit from you.
> After a bit of a hassle with the funds I ended up sending you some of it
in
> cash if you can remember that. Anyways, I love the bearing kit. Because it
> was one of the originals I did have the problem of the small spindle
> collapsing, but I took a bearing from one of my RC cars and gouged out the
> inside of the spindle to make it fit so now the cable does not jump over
> itself. I am a bit worried though because the spindle did crack a little,
> but it seems ok so far.

> From my understating Mike T is no longer in the pot and pedal business. I
> bought one of his last two pots. It did not last long though. Because of
the
> taper machined to the shaft of the pot I don't think I filed it down
enough
> and ended up forcing it in. I believe I damaged the pot internally because
> when I turn the pot to the far left the raw numbers begin to jump way up
> instead of going smoothly down. I found a large electronics part store in
my
> area that had lots of high quality 100k pots so I have a lifetime supply
at
> only $1.50ea.

> A question on the CH 100K pots though. I have bought two so far and I
can't
> use them. From 0k to 100k the pot only travels 225 degrees while the other
> pots I found take 360 degrees from 0k to 100k. Anyone you know that has
> tried to use these successfully?

> Last week I installed some switches I bought from Radio Shack for my
> shifters. The old tin ones had cracked, so now I have trouble free
shifting
> again!

> Thanks for the tip about e-bay. Hopefully I can find one so I will have no
> worries!

> Thanks,
> FatnSlo
> aka Steve Adams

> > If you don't fry the cirquit board your LWFF should be working for a
> looooong
> > time.
> > One typical fault are off-jumping cables, when the plastic bushings get
> too
> > slacky. This can damage the plastic pulleys on long terms.
> > Since you are on BB's already, this should not be an issue for you.
> > Pots wear out naturally, but MikeT's HQ spare pots should take care of
> that.
> > MikeT also converted the wheel paddles to proper switches instead of
this
> lousy
> > diphragm-thingies.
> > Spare cables are available too, sooner or later you need them.

> > So, no need to worry :-)

> > Cya
> > JensSchumi

> > BTW: Probably the right time to browse ebay for a spare unit? They are
> still
> > around and quite cheap.

> > >I am curious to why you can't get the red LWFF to work in XP too. Try
> > >downloading the beta 4.20 wingman drivers. They fixed a problem I had
> with
> > >N2002. My wheel has Jens bearing kit and a high quality pot installed
> along
> > >with new buttons for the shifters. I agree about the pedals. They do
> really
> > >suck. I wired in the same CH pedals Alison Hine did for GPL, but I
don't
> > >think they sell that version anymore. I still think the LWFF red's
cable
> > >system is better than the notchy feeling MOMO. I also have been tempted
> many
> > >times to just buy a new wheel but always have found a way to get the
old
> red
> > >to work. I think I would cry if ever something broke on the wheel that
I
> > >could not fix!

> > >FatnSlo

> > >4.20 drivers: http://www.racesimcentral.net/

> > ---------------------------------------------
> > LWFF Ball Bearing conversion at:
> > http://www.racesimcentral.net/

> > GPLRank: -14.82
> > Monsters of GPL: sub 95

by **FatnSl** » Thu, 06 Jun 2002 15:58:20

No, I just get a bit obsessive about the wheel, always wanting to make sure
it is performing top notch. I don't think anything has ever really broken on
the wheel. The only thing that has worn out is the pot, which happens with
about any wheel, and the shift buttons were wearing out, but still worked.
My reason for replacing them was to assure I don't get an extra down shift
when in a critical area that might cause me to spin.

FatnSlo

> Hi Steve,

> Somehow this doesn't read like an unbridled endor***t of the LWFF....

> --anotherSteve

> > Hi Jens! I Believe I was one of the first to buy a bearing kit from you.
> > After a bit of a hassle with the funds I ended up sending you some of it
> in
> > cash if you can remember that. Anyways, I love the bearing kit. Because
it
> > was one of the originals I did have the problem of the small spindle
> > collapsing, but I took a bearing from one of my RC cars and gouged out
the
> > inside of the spindle to make it fit so now the cable does not jump over
> > itself. I am a bit worried though because the spindle did crack a
little,
> > but it seems ok so far.

> > From my understating Mike T is no longer in the pot and pedal business.
I
> > bought one of his last two pots. It did not last long though. Because of
> the
> > taper machined to the shaft of the pot I don't think I filed it down
> enough
> > and ended up forcing it in. I believe I damaged the pot internally
because
> > when I turn the pot to the far left the raw numbers begin to jump way
up
> > instead of going smoothly down. I found a large electronics part store
in
> my
> > area that had lots of high quality 100k pots so I have a lifetime supply
> at
> > only $1.50ea.

> > A question on the CH 100K pots though. I have bought two so far and I
> can't
> > use them. From 0k to 100k the pot only travels 225 degrees while the
other
> > pots I found take 360 degrees from 0k to 100k. Anyone you know that has
> > tried to use these successfully?

> > Last week I installed some switches I bought from Radio Shack for my
> > shifters. The old tin ones had cracked, so now I have trouble free
> shifting
> > again!

> > Thanks for the tip about e-bay. Hopefully I can find one so I will have
no
> > worries!

> > Thanks,
> > FatnSlo
> > aka Steve Adams

> > > If you don't fry the cirquit board your LWFF should be working for a
> > looooong
> > > time.
> > > One typical fault are off-jumping cables, when the plastic bushings
get
> > too
> > > slacky. This can damage the plastic pulleys on long terms.
> > > Since you are on BB's already, this should not be an issue for you.
> > > Pots wear out naturally, but MikeT's HQ spare pots should take care of
> > that.
> > > MikeT also converted the wheel paddles to proper switches instead of
> this
> > lousy
> > > diphragm-thingies.
> > > Spare cables are available too, sooner or later you need them.

> > > So, no need to worry :-)

> > > Cya
> > > JensSchumi

> > > BTW: Probably the right time to browse ebay for a spare unit? They are
> > still
> > > around and quite cheap.

> > > >I am curious to why you can't get the red LWFF to work in XP too.
Try
> > > >downloading the beta 4.20 wingman drivers. They fixed a problem I had
> > with
> > > >N2002. My wheel has Jens bearing kit and a high quality pot installed
> > along
> > > >with new buttons for the shifters. I agree about the pedals. They do
> > really
> > > >suck. I wired in the same CH pedals Alison Hine did for GPL, but I
> don't
> > > >think they sell that version anymore. I still think the LWFF red's
> cable
> > > >system is better than the notchy feeling MOMO. I also have been
tempted
> > many
> > > >times to just buy a new wheel but always have found a way to get the
> old
> > red
> > > >to work. I think I would cry if ever something broke on the wheel
that
> I
> > > >could not fix!

> > > >FatnSlo

> > > >4.20 drivers: http://www.racesimcentral.net/

> > > ---------------------------------------------
> > > LWFF Ball Bearing conversion at:
> > > http://www.racesimcentral.net/

> > > GPLRank: -14.82
> > > Monsters of GPL: sub 95

by J » Wed, 12 Jun 2002 10:14:16

LOL,
Did you try with my manual?

Cya
JensSchumi

=> just deals is still selling reconditioned LWFF's. I had mine for over

---------------------------------------------
LWFF Ball Bearing conversion at:
http://jensschumi.tripod.com/

GPLRank: -14.82
Monsters of GPL: sub 95

by J » Wed, 12 Jun 2002 10:14:18

Steve,
if the spindle cracks you should fill it with hot glue to avoid further damage.
Thx for the info on the CH-pots. I was not aware that they are only 225 deg.
The pots you found, are they with flattened shaft?
The MikeT pots are fine in my wheel. No problem so far.
About forcing the thing in: Since quite awhile I only adjust the setscrew quite
loose and put a drop of hotglue onto the shaft before applying the pot (yeah, I
love that stuff). Works perfectly at no slack.

Cya
Jens

>Hi Jens! I Believe I was one of the first to buy a bearing kit from you.
>After a bit of a hassle with the funds I ended up sending you some of it in

<snip>
---------------------------------------------
LWFF Ball Bearing conversion at:
http://jensschumi.tripod.com/

GPLRank: -14.82
Monsters of GPL: sub 95

by J » Wed, 12 Jun 2002 10:14:19

Steve,
depends how old your wheel is and how hard/often you use it.
There are typical problems occuring, but they can be healed w/o spare parts
supply from Logitech (which is somehow limited, as we all know).

From my own wheels (around 10 went through my hands within 4 years) I can report
the following:

1 paddle shifter damaged by crack in diaphragm. I soldered the thing, today I
would implant a micro-switch

One steering pot gone by wear. Replaced by MikeT's

Two throttle pots gone. Easily solved by exchanging throttle against brake pot,
so the slider runs on a fresh section of the graphit layer. Fine for another
year or two.

One cirquit board fried: A lightning came down when I was just on the board with
the soldering iron - bad luck :-(

One cable set worn out. But not by wear, more by frequent
assembling/s=disassembling not using the correct procedure.

Not too bad, I suppose :-)

Cya
Jens

---------------------------------------------
LWFF Ball Bearing conversion at:
http://www.racesimcentral.net/

GPLRank: -14.82
Monsters of GPL: sub 95

by **FatnSl** » Wed, 12 Jun 2002 16:06:55

The pots I found fit the unit perfectly without any modifications. The pots
have a switch, but it is past the throw needed for the wheel. I have 4
spares so I should be ok for years I hope. I would have liked to have
loosened the set-screw when I installed MikeT's pot, but that would have
required complete disassembly and I was too lazy. I did find where my steel
cable had worn through the lining probably due to when the spindle was
collapsing. I cut off the brittled lining at that point, but I am sure it
will all start to come off now. I know you have replaced cables before. Any
consensus on what is the best replacement?

Steve

> Steve,
> if the spindle cracks you should fill it with hot glue to avoid further
damage.
> Thx for the info on the CH-pots. I was not aware that they are only 225
deg.
> The pots you found, are they with flattened shaft?
> The MikeT pots are fine in my wheel. No problem so far.
> About forcing the thing in: Since quite awhile I only adjust the setscrew
quite
> loose and put a drop of hotglue onto the shaft before applying the pot
(yeah, I
> love that stuff). Works perfectly at no slack.

> Cya
> Jens

> >Hi Jens! I Believe I was one of the first to buy a bearing kit from you.
> >After a bit of a hassle with the funds I ended up sending you some of it
in
> <snip>
> ---------------------------------------------
> LWFF Ball Bearing conversion at:
> http://jensschumi.tripod.com/

> GPLRank: -14.82
> Monsters of GPL: sub 95

by J » Fri, 14 Jun 2002 09:47:04

I use replacement cables made from 7x7 strand stainless steel fishing line (in
UK also called shark line)
Unluckily I cannot get that material with nylon coating over here, but that's
only a small backdraw (must be a bit careful when assembling).

Cya
JensSchumi

>The pots I found fit the unit perfectly without any modifications. The pots
>have a switch, but it is past the throw needed for the wheel. I have 4
>spares so I should be ok for years I hope. I would have liked to have
>loosened the set-screw when I installed MikeT's pot, but that would have
>required complete disassembly and I was too lazy. I did find where my steel
>cable had worn through the lining probably due to when the spindle was
>collapsing. I cut off the brittled lining at that point, but I am sure it
>will all start to come off now. I know you have replaced cables before. Any
>consensus on what is the best replacement?

>Steve

---------------------------------------------
LWFF Ball Bearing conversion at:
http://jensschumi.tripod.com/

GPLRank: -14.82
Monsters of GPL: sub 95

rec.autos.simulators

momo wheel vs. ms wheel - the difference please

momo wheel vs. ms wheel - the difference please

momo wheel vs. ms wheel - the difference please

momo wheel vs. ms wheel - the difference please

momo wheel vs. ms wheel - the difference please

momo wheel vs. ms wheel - the difference please

momo wheel vs. ms wheel - the difference please

momo wheel vs. ms wheel - the difference please

momo wheel vs. ms wheel - the difference please

momo wheel vs. ms wheel - the difference please

momo wheel vs. ms wheel - the difference please

momo wheel vs. ms wheel - the difference please

momo wheel vs. ms wheel - the difference please