Well apart from the trailing brake issue already mentioned there's a hardware
perpective. When in combined mode the pots are connected in serial. When you
configure the mid-point is taken as no brake and no accelerator. With inferior
pots you will get more 'bounce' (jerky controls) and thus less accurate
control. This is more marked when the pots get dirty or go off. When this
occurs you can find the car breaking slightly (or a lot) when you are off both
pedals. In separate mode this will not happen because each pot goes across it's
individual axis. Of course a bouncy break pot will give the same effect whether
it's in serial or separate but you can often get round this problem by
over-calibrating the pedal so that the maximum bounce is below the minimum
brake position.
Paul
> OK, well that's good to know. Now when you mention it, I think I saw
> something about it in the doc for the wheel.
> But how much difference will this do when you're playing? I mean, how often
> do you push both pedals the same time? I can only speak for myself, and I
> can't see any use for that. How is it in the real racing world - is there a
> reason for using both pedals at the same time there?
> --
> If you want to reply to me in person, please replace nospam with swipnet in
> my address.
> Best regards,
> Richard
> >It has the defines for separate pedals - allowing you to break and
> accelerate at
> >the same time - this is not supported by all games but with those that do
> (eg
> >F1RS) it makes for better and more realistic racing.
> >Paul
