(added a clutch) with my home built steering controller. The CH pedals
worked ok but for games like GPL and especially F1RS it seemed the throttle
was too short of travel to apply smoothly or increase slowly. I had to use
the anti-spin help in F1RS because its so sensitive ( MGPRS2 has not
improved this either.)
I built my new with pedals modeled after formula/Sport racer race cars with
the pivot at the bottom. I made it with extra long throttle travel (about 30
deg.or 3" travel at 7" from pivot).
Most controllers use 100k ohm linear potentiometers (labeled B100k ohms).
These change resistance proportional to the amount of shaft movement. For
the throttle and brake I used a 100K okm audio taper potentiometer (labeled
A100k ohms). This type of pot is normally used for volume control and
increases resistance progressively so the first part of rotation changes the
resistance slowly and then increases faster at the end of travel.
This allows the throttle to increase very slowly at the start of movement
and then faster or a more normal linear increase at the end of travel. I
have much more control of wheel spin and no longer need the anti-spin
setting in F1RS/MGPRS2. I haven't determined if its better for the brake
yet, but I also have an adjustable *** pedal stop on the brake and an
extra 100k pot connected in series to adjust the amount of braking when it
hits the stop. This can help set when the brakes lock up.
The audio taper pot on the throttle made F1RS/MGPRS2 and GPL much easier to
drive for me.
If you want to try it, you will need to be able to mount the pot (I used an
A100k ohm Radio Shack pot for $1.50) in place so that it uses the portion of
rotation that is progressive. It will need about 70 deg. or more of rotation
and start at about 1/4 turn to use the portion that is progressive.
Good luck,
Lutrell :-)
http://www.racesimcentral.net/