There's not only the driver issue, but also reliability/build quality
problems.
Than most. ;-)
Seriously, it really is. More below.
The TSW2 is a very precise wheel and the build quality is excellent. Whether
or not you would want one ties in with another discussion. Is FF desirable
if one wants to go truly fast? -Personally, I think the answer is no... FF
feeds back into the steering and can act as a fear/caution trigger. It might
make you more consistent, but not quicker, IMO. So, if your ambition is to
make Huttu eat humble pie, FF is not for you. If not, it ads to the
immersion and fun factor.
That was my comment and I stand by it. I upgraded from the cable driven LWFF
to the MOMO because the old girl really started to show some wear and tear
(especially around the steering shaft) after 2+ years of use and because a
lot of people I trust in these matters were very positive about it. All I
can say is: I'm not dissapointed. This wheel is really a cut above the
previous one, even in mint condition. It has more lock, is more comfortable
to hold (leather provides grip for sweaty hands), more precise and the
pedals can be used without major modification/don't need to be replaced with
3rd party units. It also has stronger FF (i.e. more range!!*) and has
quicker response (about half the time of the LWFF), ergo it requires (other
than special beta drivers) more damping to get rid of spiking in GPL. I have
the setting at about double of what I used to have. The gear driven system
does take a bit of getting used to and, yes, it does sort of "wear in" and
smooth out with initial use (took about 8 hours of driving, I guess). I
think the cables in the previous model, together with the friction/slop in
the steering shaft assembly absorbed a lot of short/subtle transients, which
are felt in the MOMO. In short: I really like it.
Caution... subjective opinion ahead. If you looking to buy "a wheel" that is
exactly what you will end up buying: a wheel. In which case *any* wheel will
do, even those godawfull Trust ones. For your game selection FF is an
optional extra, rather than a requirement IMO. I even doubt whether a wheel
is even nescessary/usefull for Lego Racers. I usually break out my
opto-analog (non-FF) joystick for arcade games. Then again, I haven't played
it and neither do I know anyone who has (or, if do know them, they haven't
told me they did ;-)), so I might be wrong.
It's a wheel which exhibits a small "knock" in the middle as one moves it
from side to side. As if there were a "notch" at the top dead centre
position.
Depends on ones perspective. For me, as a "serious" simracer, absolutely.
It's a tool required for my hobby and it's of similar importance as a good
cue to an amateur pool player. If, on the other hand, one considers the
wheel more of a gadget, neigh gimmick to make racing games more
enjoyable/apealing, it still might be worth $100 extra, but only if one
intends to keep using it for quite some time. It's a lot of money to throw
at a fad.
Jan.
=---
"Pay attention when I'm talking to you boy!" -Foghorn Leghorn.
(*) Note: Contrary to what another poster claimed, having a more "forcefull"
wheel does not necessarily mean one sets it up to experience higher force
levels. Though this can be done with the MOMO, the right thing to do, IMO,
is to set it up so the force level is the same overall as the earlier model,
but benifiting from the wider range (i.e. more nuances) in force levels.
Same as with audio equipment... why would one buy a 2x100Wrms amplifier if
2x1Wrms is already very loud indeed? Simple... because the sound from the
2x100Wrms one, operating at 1Wrms is a lot cleaner .