rec.autos.simulators

I'm looking for some technical info on how to set up the cars in GP2.
were can i find this info on the web?

I'd like to know the meaning of every thing in the set-up menu (adv +
adv2).

--
 Hi by
  __
 /__)     /
/___)eck

MasaYard's Grand Prix 2 Home Page
http://www.edu.lahti.fi/~masayard/gp2/

Peter

I would like to know why changing the anti-roll bars changes the
handling of the car, how I should determine the spring settings. If
you can explain me that with the manual, please do...

Arnold

On Mon, 28 Oct 1996 16:01:03 GMT, arn...@dutlbcz.lr.tudelft.nl (Arnold van den

The manual does explain very well on setting up a car..

The reason why, "putting more front wing" will make the car oversteer, is
because of the "added" downforce to front wheels. The front wheels have more
"grip" than the rear wheels. I could go on, but you see, I have just finished my
"Setup Guide for Indycar 1, GP 1, Nascar1, Nascar 2, Indycar 2 and GP2. It's
big!! I am thinking about going to a publisher for it.
:
:I would like to know why changing the anti-roll bars changes the
:handling of the car,

ARBs effect the middle of the corner. The arbs are the fine tuning adjustments
after you settled down on adjusting on your wings.

: how I should determine the spring settings. If
:you can explain me that with the manual, please do...
:
Spring settings..ahh.. Usually it is dependant on what type of circuit it is
for. For example, if the circuit is bumpy, more and likely you will need "soft"
spring settings. Remember that if you use a "stiff" spring, that you suspension
will react fast, since it hardly has "any" movement and excessive tire wear.
Soft springs react slower and a give you a "gradual" feel over the circuit and
the tires will last you longer!!!

Here I will tell you how I setup a car for GP2, okay??

When I first attempt to go on a track, I look at the layout of the track, common
sense, eh?? Hehe.. Then I use the "default" setup that came with the game. I
drive with "best racing line" aid on (F5). From there, I try to push the car as
fast as I can make it go. Now then, I adjust my rear wing and 6th gear first for
the "longest" straightaways.

Then I test out how the rear wing adjustments feel on the turns. If it's too
"loose" I bring down the front wing, to lessen the downforce on the front tires,
so they have "less" bite at the front wheels.

Now, I begin to "lower" ride height. Remember, that lower you make your car, the
more "undercar" downforce there will be and that the plank is 10mm thick!! So if
you have a ride height of 27mm, the actually "free" area under the car is 17mm.
Now you ask, "how did you get that??" Easy, knowing that your ride is 27mm and
the plank is 10mm, you substract 27mm-10mm and you 17mm. Keep in mind that this
"free" area is the area that you can either go "lower", which I really wouldn't
do yet, or give play to the suspension components. Remember that the suspension
moves!!!

Are you with me so far??; )

Packers or rubber bumpers, these little things basically keep the car from
bottoming out. Let's say you adjusted the ride height too low and now it's
scraping on the ground bad. You have two options:

1)  You could add more packers, until the plank flickers on the straightaways
     ( If you use too many packers, you will be riding on them, thus taking away
some of the suspension movement. Anyways they are only used at "high" speeds)

2)  You could raise the ride height some. (If the light stays on "slow" turns
you have gone to far in lowering the ride height!!!)

I prefer the latter, here's why, you haven't adjusted the dampeners and
rebounders yet!!!

Use the telemetry alot!! It's a great tool. In the past two segments, we
adjusted ride height and packers. So use the "ride height and suspension travel'
in the telemetry.

Here are some telemetry tips:

In the "Suspension Travel", if there is a flat line at the bottom of the graph,
you are on the packers, Meaning, I hope you are on a straightaway -use the map
to find out if you are-, or you simply have way too much packers in the setup!!

In the "Ride Height" section, if the line is at the bottom;

1)  You have either weared out the plank!!

2)   Look at rule number 1 !!!; )

Notice: I haven't adjusted the ARBS yet!!

Now, let's move on to the harderst part in setting up a car in GP2. I love this
part..!!:)

I will try to simplify as much as possible here. The first part we will adjust
is the "bumb dampeners". This adjustment is like what is says. It's an adjust
for going over bumps (Curbs, or kerbs). The sttifer you set this setting when
you are going "over" curbs, more and likely you will be out of control!! You
need to adjust this setting, so you can use all of the road, which means curbs.
There are two settings for this:

1) Fast bump dampeners: This setting is for turns that are in excess of 90mph
and up!! I generally will have the Front fast damper settting "lower" then rear
setting. This causes a slight "loose" condition.

2) Slow bump dampeners: This setting is for turns that are under 90mph. I
usually have the front slow bump damnpeners "higher" than the rear setting. This
caruses a slight "tight" condition.

Is everything making sense?? I hope so..

Now onto the "Rebound dampeners". Heheh.. This adjustment is what majority of
you all are looking at. You see this adjustment effects the entry and exit of
the corner. Even though the above segment go hand -in- hand. This setting is
also divided into two types:

1) Fast rebound dampeners: I usually set the front setting "lower" than the rear
setting. Causes a "slight" loose condition for fast entry and exit turns.

2) Slow rebound dampeners: I usually set the front setting "higher" than the
rear setting. This is a slight "tight" condition in the corner.

Now, you ask, "how much do I use??" It is all dependant on the way you drive and
"feel" the car out. If you start to lower the numbers the car starts to be soft,
so watch for plank wear!!! Generally, the rebound dampener will be 1.5, 2 or
even 3 times the bump dampener. I haven't seen 3 times yet!! In otherwords, you
could set the bump dampeners first, then multilply the numbers. That's the easy
way out. Or you could test and feel it out.

Majority of your time will be here adjusting the dampeners. Remember, a soft
suspension goes a long way for a race setup!!

Anti-roll bars or arbs, these are usually "working" in the middle or at the apex
of the corner. Keep in mind, if you add alot of front arb you will be "loose"
and vice versa to the rear, "tight"

Brake bias, this is really simple. When you brake, does your car come around you
or seem "loose"??? Adjust the brake bias to the front. Theoretically you want
the brake bias to the front. If you lock up the front brakes, move to the rear.
Make sense?? Use the telemetry, under "wheelspin" to tell which wheel is
spinning or locking up. That's self explanatory.

And finally change the gearing around, 1st through 5th. Try to get as much
acceleration, traction, or speed with the AIs.

There you have it.. I know that I have been rather vague with it. But since I
have written a huge setup guide for all racing sims, I don't want to tell you
everything yet!! I will just see how everything goes with the publisher.

If you have any questions just email me.. I would be happy to help you out in
any way.

Oh yeah, here's something for all of you out there that don't have the manual!!

Standard Setup Reference (level 1)

Driving Problems in encountered

Problem: The car does not want to steer into the corners

Cause: Understeer
Remedy: Increase front wing or decrease rear wing values
Further Options: Bias brake balance towards rear (-)

Problem: The cars turns too quickly into corners or spins too easily when
cornering

Cause: Oversteer
Remedy: Decrease front wing or increase rear wing
Further Options: Bias brake balance to the front (+)

Problem: Rival cars are much faster on long straights

Cause: Too much downforce/gear ratio too "short"/ not enough speed through
previous corner
Remedy: Reduce wings front and back/space out higher gear ratios/use more
throttle
Further Options: Check correct driving line

Problem: Car does not grip in corners/other cars are faster in corners

Cause: Too little downforce/speed too high
Remedy: Increase wing front and back/slow down in corner

Problem: Car lacks acceleration over short distances

Cause: Gear ratios too "long"
Remedy: Close down gaps between gears

Problem: Car tends to spin off when braking into corners

Cause: Underbraking/braking too late
Remedy: Move brake balance towards front/brake earlier
Further Options: Increase wing

Problem: Car is slow in corners and straights

Cause: Gearing
Remedy: Lengthen the gears
Further Options: Reduce wing

Problem: A gradual worsening of performance

Cause: Tires wearing out
Remedy: Fit a new set of tires.

Problem: Sudden loss of performance

Cause: Car damaged in accident
Remedy: Return to pits
Further Options: Check outside views for obstruction

Problem: Car stops suddenly

Cause: No fuel
Remedy: None

Now, keep in mind, that this is for  Level 1 setup options.. I got this from the
manual.

Any questions??

I hope this helps..

take care

Julian Data
IVGA Member #0004
Director of Information Technology
ACE Beta Tester and Driver of IVGA
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