Does anyone now of any ICR2 web sites with RACE setups? All the sites that I
have stumbled upon seem to be solely focused on getting a perfect one-lap
qualifying effort. Alternatively, if there is a simple set of steps to
convert a qualifying lap setup to that appropriate for a full-tank drive
perhaps someone could enlighten me!
thanks in advance!
- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -
Michael Hundley
Santa Fe, New Mexico USA
Usually the car will understeer more on full tanks, so you'll need to
put in more roll stiffness in the rear, or take some out in the front.
You can change it back in small increments as the fuel load lightens and
the car gets looser.
You may also want to run a bit more wing, particularly in the rear to
make the car more stable and predictable in fast turns.
On some tracks, like the mile ovals, if your qualifying setup has soft
tires on the right side, these may overheat, so you may have to go to
mediums on the outside. This will probably require some tweaking of
wings, roll bars, and/or springs/shocks to get the balance back.
Alison
Remove the spam blocker NOSPAM to email me.
http://www.nh.ultranet.com/~alison
% Does anyone now of any ICR2 web sites with RACE setups? All the sites that I
% have stumbled upon seem to be solely focused on getting a perfect one-lap
% qualifying effort. Alternatively, if there is a simple set of steps to
% convert a qualifying lap setup to that appropriate for a full-tank drive
% perhaps someone could enlighten me!
I usually take one of the hot lap setups and start re-tuning with about
22 gals of fuel. This way by the time the tire temps are up I have a
fairly "balanced" car to start my observations and tweaking. Usually
the first thing to do is adjust top gear. Also look at the tire
compounds, which are usually too soft for race conditions. Of course
you know that in CART you must start the race on the tires you
qualified?
Alot of the hot lap setups have removed down force with the wings. Anyway,
the approach is start working by giving yourself enough grip to hold the
line by adjusting the wings. It's now time to work just like you would
in setting up any car. Watch the tire temps and make sure you are
getting even temps across the tires (camber). Then start playing with
shocks to get the balance and grip you need in the corners.
I find that I have to toss alot of the other people's setups out the
window, since they don't fit my driving style. But, one can learn alot
from analyzing the different approaches people make in car setups.
--
**************************** Michael E. Carver *************************
Upside out, or inside down...False alarm the only game in town.
=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=<[ /./. [- < ]>=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=
: Does anyone now of any ICR2 web sites with RACE setups? All the sites that I
: have stumbled upon seem to be solely focused on getting a perfect one-lap
: qualifying effort. Alternatively, if there is a simple set of steps to
: convert a qualifying lap setup to that appropriate for a full-tank drive
: perhaps someone could enlighten me!
If you are like me, you don't really care if you can peel off just one lap
or not. All of my Q setups start with 14 gals of fuel for road course and
2-6 gals on ovals.
So as you can tell, going from 14 gals to 40 gals is not as bad as say 5
gals to 40 gals.
Take Portland for example. I can Q at 58.114s. For the race I just dump
in 40 gals and take it easy for the first 3 laps or so. By the time the
tires warm up I am peeling off sub 1m times. By the end of the tank I'm
in the mid-upper 58's.
This is usually only good for road courses. At Milwaukee, I actually make
some wholesale changes to that so it won't push in the early going.
Milwaukee is never flat out anyway, so it doesn't show that badly in the
lap times and more wing makes it easier to drive anyway.
For me road course Q setup = R setup with less gas. Makes for some
wickedly quick race setups. ;)
For ovals, I make compound adjustments and maybe tweak the camber to get
the temps back correct. I seldom change shocks, but a slight wing
adjustment might be necessary to keep it from pushing. Not a whole lot,
but that depends on the track. Oh, and I adjust 6th gear to get decent
gas mileage.
You can check out my setups page, at www.geocities.com/MotorCity/Downs/1486
The setups I have posted I've used in my races (100% length, 95-97% opponents). Most of the setups are modifications of setups I've found on the web. Keep in mind that other people's setups are not necessarily the golden lining. However, try some of my setups, and some of the ones I have links to. Someone is liable to have setups which suit your driving style. Don't forget that they still may need some modifications to last through an entire fuel load.
Some of the modifications necessary might include tire compounds/pressures Shocks, roll bars. You can check out the Quick Fix guide I have posted on my setups page.
If you need more, send me an email, and I'll try to help.
Later,
Rick Martel
www.geocities.com/MotorCity/Downs/1486
