rec.autos.simulators

Hi,

Firstly, many thanks to everyone who helped me out on my pedal problem
that I posted earlier in the week.

Anyhow, today I finally managed to get some electronics cleaner
(compressed air) but I'm not sure how I go about cleaning the insides of
my TM NASCAR Pro / Formula 1 setup.

Does the bottom come completely off? I had a go earlier and couldn't see
any way for it to come off. If so, is there a really specific way for
getting to the pedals?

I've actually had a couple of trouble free days but today my problem has
come back. The brake pedal has developed a life of its own and obviously
needs some cleaning.

Very grateful for any help,
Graeme Nash

http://www.racesimcentral.net/
ICQ# 11257824

1998 Xoom GP2 League Champion

Graeme Nash

Sorry, but compressed air won't do it! You need "electronic contact
cleaner". Once you get the your Thrustmaster apart (sorry but I can't help
there - don't own one), you need to spray the contact cleaner directly
inside the potentiometers for the brake, gas, etc. and then immediately
press the gas, brake, etc.  to their extents several times. This will clean
the wiper inside the pots and should remove any dirt or oxidation build up.

Doug

First unscrew the pedal pads off (two screws each, and be careful not to
strip the heads), than undo the 7 phillips-head screws underside the pedal
base.   When putting it back make sure the separate-combined switch is
seated correctly, and that the wire harness coming out the back is not
squashed between the edges.

Nafi Coker

Yes the bottom of the pedal base does come off (6 or so screws) - you should
have sufficient access without remove the pedals themselves (2 screws per
pedal) - as I have been able to change the springs without removing the
pedals.

Whether compressed air is sufficient is open for debate - it may shift the
dirt, but electrical spray may be needed.

I have successfully used WD40 for other devices in the past, but I think
this may cause dirt to cling due to its lubricant properties - no doubt
someone on this group will know the facts.

Cheers

Tony

Hi Graeme,
Don't use WD40 - it conducts electricity ever so slightly and is really a
lubricant and not a cleaner. Compressed air won't removed those tricky
ground in stains (Arial Automatic is no good either <g> ) and I suggest a
hydrocarbon based or equivalent contact cleaner. I use Radio Shack's
Electronic Contact Cleaner (Cat No. 64-7026A) available at Tandy - Maplin's
do the same kind of stuff - I can't remember where in the UK you live but
you must have one or other near you. Your computer should be turned off. Now
you've got the bottom off (see previous replies) look for the pots
(potentiometers) - the three quarter inch brass circular things with a metal
rod coming out of the middle. The rod is turned as you depress the pedals.
The contact cleaner should come with a thin plastic tube that you attach to
the nozzle of the spray cannister. Stick the tube into the potentiometer and
shoot 2 or three squirts inside each pot. Depress the each pedal several
times and then wait 5 minutes. Repeat. Don't reassembe the pedal unit just
yet, but ensure that the connections to the Thrustmaster are all in place.
Now switch on the computer and check in the control panel calibration or
better still with the TMS utility that everything is working properly. You
may want to put a few more squirt in before closing up if you still have
problems.
It may be that your pots have become pushed off the end by constant racing,
as someone suggested in answer to your last post. The pots should allow you
to rotate the base setting further back to prevent this. I can't remember
how the TM F1's pots are anchored - so this maybe harder than it should be.
The metal rod is usually tightened against the turning mechanism by a very
small screw. Loosen this adjust the base position ever so slightly and then
tighten again. Now recalibrate and test.
I'll open up my TM F1 later and confirm the attachment details. Bear in mind
that different production runs may use different parts. Some pots have cubic
bases and some have plastic rods.
There is a user maintained TM maintenance web guide somewhere - I'll find
this out for you as well.
Btw if you bought it in PC World or certain other stores, they have I one
year one for one return policy so you may be able to swap out for a brand
new one for no money at all. If they don't have another F1 you may find that
you can upgrade to a FF TM sprint for an extra 25.00. But also bear in mind
that TM have "Friday afternoon" units and if yours works well except for the
pots, I suggest*** onto it and simply cleaning the pots. I've been
running a TM GP1 as a third wheel on my LAN racing system for quite a while
now and due to the hand operated Y-axes the pots get dirty regularly.
Contact cleaner fixes this very simply and effectively.

Hi Graeme,
So now I've reminded myself of the TM F1 and see that it'll be very hard to
adjust base position of the pots given that they are secured via a slice taken
off the rod which slots into the white cog and not by a tiny***as I thought.
If a clean doesn't work and the plastic on the cog isn't deformed then replacing
the pots would seem to be the best solution. Ring up Thrusty's UK service help
line which you can get from http://www.racesimcentral.net/
site. They will probably send you replacement pots and even cogs, but will
certainly tell you the part number. Actually the exact part number only really
matters because of the bend metal overlaps and sliced off rod and you can really
use any old 50K or 100K pot that you can get to fit. Conductive plastic pots are
better than the ones Thrusty use, but given the lack of precision in the F1, I
doubt that you'll notice the difference. You may be able to frig the pot
position by loosening the attaching nuts and the bent metal pins and then
tightening up the nut again, but I make no guarantees.
The Thrustmaster user help page is in fact for the T2 - doh! - but you may find
something useful there if you can connect to it which I couldn't just now but
could about a week ago - http://www.racesimcentral.net/~jjcox/home.htm - and it's back up
again now!
Good luck and let us know how it all goes,
Cheers,
Paul

Graeme, they don't mean compresses air, they mean electric contact cleaner,
such as WD40?
This will clean up and improve the electric contacts in the pots (for a
while anyway?)

8-)

Peter G    #:-)