rec.autos.simulators

I touched up my doorstop-story with some photos.
You can find the pedal-upgrade on my webpage.

My experience so far:
Since I use a reproducive way to calibrate (not so trivial with a flexible dead
end), there was no recalibration needed. The tire-lock stays nicely with the
same break-pressure.
I'm still not faster with this upgrade, but this is due to my earlier
break-help-on. Still fighting against the friction circle.
Using the doorstop the material costs have increased from US$ 1,95 to US$ 2,35.
But since there are 4 pieces in the package, costs are down again to US$ 2,05,
if you can find 3 guys doing the same upgrade ;-)

Happy tire-squealing

Jens
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Visit my webpage at http://www.racesimcentral.net/:
Radio controlled airplanes
Racing simulation, esp. GPL
Classic cars, esp. Morris Minor

A real pressure sensitive pedal doesn't move at all, and give you linear braking effect as a
function of pedal pressure. Linear...

There are two ways to achieve this.
1) Electro mechanically with a load cell
2) Hydraulics with a pressure pick-up cell.

There can be trouble getting such a setup to work on all game controller cards, especially
the old obsolete RC game port... And you need a great deal of electronics circuitry to get
it to work...

But it would be a blast! And it would ensure consistency on the very edge of the limit!

---Asgeir---

My setup is not "pure" pressure sensitive, but it's realistic.
A break system has its flexible components, which gives you a certain travel at
the dead end.
About the break feeling: you don't feel any movement in this range, even
barefeet.

I like it.

Jens

<snip>
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Visit my webpage at http://members.xoom.com/JensSchu/ for some serious stuff concerning:
Radio controlled airplanes
Racing simulation, esp. GPL
Classic cars, esp. Morris Minor

Asgeir,
I recently bought a MSFF wheel, and the brake pedal for some reason made the
wheels lock up at about 50% of travel, no matter how much I calibrated.
Prodding through the garage, I found a short (about 2 cm) spring, stiff,
with wide coils, and its diameter is about 3 cm. I sticky taped it in place
under the brake pedal, and hey presto!
I can now slam the brake pedal down (quite short travel), till it feels like
it stops. Brake input at my guess would be 90% of max at that range. The
pedal now feels really hard and firm, but it still has some movement in it,
if you use force (like don't do it in an office chair on wheels like I
do....).
The result is that if you really, really push the pedal, the wheels lock up.
Feels great, and consistency is brilliant. I never lock up/spin out the
usual way, I still make plenty of goofs, of course, but not like I used to
because I couldn't feel the brake.

Ask Ed's opinion on this.

Oh, and the spring comes off a Mk II/III (pre 1976) Mini remote-gear change
unit. I'll get the part # if anybody's interested :-)

Matt

GPLEA

I don't know what system they use but Hyper Stimulators come with a pressure
regulated brake pedal. I've tried it and it works very nicely.

Don Scurlock
Vancouver,B.C.