> I was considering that exact thing (as well as Velcroing the bottom of
> the pedals and my hard-plastic chair roller mat). I was just curious
> if there were any other possibilities.
> Thanks for your feedback.
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> This space intentionally left blank
I had a similar problem. I have a Bush computer desk with a wooden
slide out keyboard shelf. The clamps would not reach al the way under
the desk. The wheel kept sliding around when I rigged up spacers and
clamped it to the keyboard shelf.
I wound up buying some 1/4-20 threaded rod, plastic thumb knobs, and
some 1/4-20 nuts that hammer into wood. I then cut a 1"x6" (1x6) piece
of wood to fit across my slide out keyboard shelf, which is flat on
top. This hangs off each end by about 1-1/2". I drilled a hole in each
end for the nuts, and hammered them in.
I then screwed a small piece (about 1-1/2" long) of 1x6 under the nuts
at each end just wide enough apart to straddle the keyboard shelf. Of
course I drilled a hole in each small piece where the threaded rod could
pass through. This holds the nuts from loosening and coming out as well
as stabelizes the 1x6 from side to side.
I loctited the thumb knobs onto one end of each of the two pieces of
threaded rod. I set the 1x6 on top of the keyboard shelf, as far
forward as possible. I then slipped the plastic clamp brackets that
came with the T2 over the threaded studs and threaded these up through
the 1x6. I had to cut some short pieces of plastic tubing to use as
spacers similar to the two sizes supplied with the T2 but a little
longer. I then marked the rods so I could cut them off to keep them
from sticking up through the 1x6.
With the clamps in place, this 1x6 was now solidly mounted to the
shelf.
I removed the top cover of the T2. I then set the T2 on top of this 1x6
and positioned it so the plastic drop down on the front of the T2 rests
back against the front of the keyboard shelf. The thickness of the 1x6
was just right to raise the wide bottom area of the T2 above the front
lip of the shelf. I then marked four locations and drilled small holes
through the T2 base but not the 1x6. I screwed the T2 down to the 1x6
using these holes.
Now how to get the cover back on, since the screws come up from the
bottom which has the 1x6 attached? I marked these hole through the base
on the 1x6, took the base off, took the 1x6 off the desk, drilled holes
at the marks large enough for the***driver to fit through, and
reassembled everything.
I know this sounds complicated. It was really cheap and fairly simple.
About 3 hours did it. I bought everything at the hardware for about
$10.
The clamps are now at about the center of the wheel base (in the front
to back direction) instead of at the very front. I don't need the
suction cups. You would have to turn the desk over to move this setup
while driving! It is rock solid. It is also very easy to loosen and
remove with no sign it was ever attached. I think the T2 mounting was
really Mickey Mouse to start with. My brother has trouble with his
sliding around all the time.
The little *** bumpers that came with the T2 slid off the pedal base
the first day I had it. I screwed four furniture leg coasters, the kind
with little spikes for carpet, onto the bottom of a 2 foot long 1x12 and
mounted the pedals to this. I put the pedal base at the front of this
1x12 so the pedals would no longer tip backward. No more walking away
from me while I'm driving!
I really don't expect anyone else to do this. It just sounds so much
harder than it really is. But, with my desk configuration, it works
great.
Tony Joy
