just felt an urge to throw some random extras into the mix :)
> To put it more simply, the exhaust gases are pushing on one end of the
> turbo's shaft, the intake is pushing on the other. Usually, the exhaust gases
> are trying to speed up the turbo, while the intake gases are trying to slow it
> down. This isn't always the case, but usually it is.
turbo,
and neither are the intake gases. When you accelerate at full throttle,
then
lift off the gas to change gears. Suddenly the exhaust gas speed falls
away,
but there's still a full load of compressed air in the intake. Combine
that
with the backpressure wave from the intake air hitting the closed
throttle
plate and you get *** intake backpressure waves crashing into the
compressor
wheel. This isn't very healthy to the long term life of a turbo, so
there
is usually some kind of pressure relief valve on the intake just after
the turbo designed to open up when there's a large pressure differential
between the intake and the manifold pressure to let this air out and
save
your turbo. The term I'm used to for naming this device is the blow-off
valve, (BOV), and this is the source of all the weird whistle/whoosh
noises
during shifts or when letting off the throttle from the tasteless boy
racer
turbo charged honda civic with neon lights you see downtown (or my very
tasteful (no neon lights) MR2 :) ).
that would be .2 bar on the gauge. Gauges read zero at atmospheric
pressure,
and positive for greater than atmospheric pressure amounts.
They usually use units of vacuum for pressures from atmospheric down to
zero. 0.2 bar is a pathetic amount of boost :)
Remember to make sure to model lots of turbo lag! If you're modelling a
turbo and you don't get pissed off at the bad throttle response compared
to a normally aspirated engine, you're probably missing something :)
The turbo does have it's own momentum, but the major source of turbo lag
is simply the amount of space it has to pressurise in the intake
plumbing.
For instance, if you stuck an intercooler in the front grill of a mid-
engined car, you'd have about 6 miles of intake piping from the back of
the car up to the front and back to pressurise, so it would take half an
hour to boost up! Of course this is an extreme example.
Intercoolers are great in this respect, especially on a nice cool chilly
day :) However as Randy mentioned earlier, they are also extremely
important
if you're trying to run anything like .4 bar or more to prevent your
engine
from blowing up a few pistons. As the piston is compressing the air in
the
cylinder, the cylinder pressure and temperature build. At a certain
combination of both factors, the fuel can (and will!) ignite by itself.
This of course is really bad if the piston is still going up and the
resulting explosion is trying to push the piston back down. You can
avoid it by either running less boost (which is the no-fun solution),
or using an intercooler to reduces the intake charge temperature. (Or
running a richer fuel mixture - the charge won't ignite so easily if
it's
overly rich) You can also push the self ignition point further away by
using higher octane fuel. Running 87 octane gas in my MR2 at 1 bar boost
would be a guaranteed blown motor. 93-94 octane is OK. Full on racing
gas
is vastly superior than pump gas in this respect, which is why you hear
of
CART (or 80's F1) running at 40psi (2.5 bar) or more. Or those cars
Rod Millen runs at Pike's Peak at 80psi.
This is also why most turbo cars use some form of boost pressure
regulation
to prevent the boost from going over a certain limit. This is done by
bypassing excess exhaust gas around the turbo's exhaust turbine once the
desire intake pressure is reached, via a wastegate.
<lurk on>