rec.autos.simulators

> > Hey all,
> <snip>

> > I was also thinking about wiring up the pots on the gas/brake so the
pinout
> > matches that of my Thrustmaster wheel, so my pedals will be
interchangeable
> > with the current pedals. Then the clutch will also be on it's own axis,
but
> > it will run through the gameport as a separate controller. This way my
> > pedals will work fine with my wheel as a single USB device with
split-axis
> > and no clutch. But then for games that support multiple controllers, I
plug
> > the clutch into the gamepad and I'm good to go.

> > That also means that I'll have another axis and some buttons to use on
the
> > gamepad. So I was considering maybe a nice Sequential shifter and a
> > Handbrake, or an H-style shifter with the extra buttons :)

> > Mike
> > http://mikebeauchamp.com

> Sounds like a good way to do it Mike.  My pedals are wired with the same
> connector so they plug into the ForceRS making the pedals and wheel show
as one
> controller (plus the original pedals can easily be swapped in if ever
needed).
>   The signal from the pedals are more stable than the when connected to
the
> gameport (the wheel electronics probably do some filtering to get rid of
> jitters). I've been working on adding a clutch to the gamepad in the
H-shifter
> by bringing wires out of the shifter box with a jack/plug so the clutch
pedal
> can be disconnected.   So the wheel/throttle/brake will be on one
controller and
> H-shifter/clutch on 2nd USB controller. Only big decision is whether to
update
> the pedals before adding the clutch. I'd be very interested in seeing how
your
> pedals are designed.

> Ken
> PS Found a better knob for the shifter and there's a nice shiny aluminum
4-speed
> coverplate plate on there now. Still needs some paint though. ;-)

> Anyways, there's going to be two sides of MDF and a bottom with a piece of
> threaded rod going straight from one end to the other maybe a foot high.
> Then the pedals hinge off of that, with the part going to the pedal
straight
> down, and another part going straight back. That's where bungee cords will
> attach to that and the base. So when the pedal is pushed forward, it
raises
> up and stretches the bungee's. Kind of hard to describe. The pot will be
> mounted on the arm that the pedal is attached to and be geared (or
pulleyed)
> up against the threaded rod with a ratio so it uses almost all the pot's
> rotation. There's also stuff like smaller threaded rods for each pedal
that
> limit it's travel, so each will be adjustable.  Each pedal assembly is
going
> to be exactly the same, so construction will be easy.

> Most things are going to be made out of MDF, which will hold up quite
nicely
> and be a lot cheaper and more accessable than some of these awesome
machined
> aluminum jobs I've seen around here :)

> Mike
> http://mikebeauchamp.com

> > > Hey all,
> > <snip>

> > > I was also thinking about wiring up the pots on the gas/brake so the
> pinout
> > > matches that of my Thrustmaster wheel, so my pedals will be
> interchangeable
> > > with the current pedals. Then the clutch will also be on it's own
axis,
> but
> > > it will run through the gameport as a separate controller. This way my
> > > pedals will work fine with my wheel as a single USB device with
> split-axis
> > > and no clutch. But then for games that support multiple controllers, I
> plug
> > > the clutch into the gamepad and I'm good to go.

> > > That also means that I'll have another axis and some buttons to use on
> the
> > > gamepad. So I was considering maybe a nice Sequential shifter and a
> > > Handbrake, or an H-style shifter with the extra buttons :)

> > > Mike
> > > http://mikebeauchamp.com

> > Sounds like a good way to do it Mike.  My pedals are wired with the same
> > connector so they plug into the ForceRS making the pedals and wheel show
> as one
> > controller (plus the original pedals can easily be swapped in if ever
> needed).
> >   The signal from the pedals are more stable than the when connected to
> the
> > gameport (the wheel electronics probably do some filtering to get rid of
> > jitters). I've been working on adding a clutch to the gamepad in the
> H-shifter
> > by bringing wires out of the shifter box with a jack/plug so the clutch
> pedal
> > can be disconnected.   So the wheel/throttle/brake will be on one
> controller and
> > H-shifter/clutch on 2nd USB controller. Only big decision is whether to
> update
> > the pedals before adding the clutch. I'd be very interested in seeing
how
> your
> > pedals are designed.

> > Ken
> > PS Found a better knob for the shifter and there's a nice shiny aluminum
> 4-speed
> > coverplate plate on there now. Still needs some paint though. ;-)

> > If I make the pedals, I'll definately draw out the plans. Since I plan
on
> > making them pretty budget oriented, but still pretty good. I have a
> feeling
> > that a lot of DIY type LFS players would be interested, especially with
> > clutch support and such coming out soon.

> > Anyways, there's going to be two sides of MDF and a bottom with a piece
of
> > threaded rod going straight from one end to the other maybe a foot high.
> > Then the pedals hinge off of that, with the part going to the pedal
> straight
> > down, and another part going straight back. That's where bungee cords
will
> > attach to that and the base. So when the pedal is pushed forward, it
> raises
> > up and stretches the bungee's. Kind of hard to describe. The pot will be
> > mounted on the arm that the pedal is attached to and be geared (or
> pulleyed)
> > up against the threaded rod with a ratio so it uses almost all the pot's
> > rotation. There's also stuff like smaller threaded rods for each pedal
> that
> > limit it's travel, so each will be adjustable.  Each pedal assembly is
> going
> > to be exactly the same, so construction will be easy.

> > Most things are going to be made out of MDF, which will hold up quite
> nicely
> > and be a lot cheaper and more accessable than some of these awesome
> machined
> > aluminum jobs I've seen around here :)

> > Mike
> > http://mikebeauchamp.com

> > > > Hey all,
> > > <snip>

> > > > I was also thinking about wiring up the pots on the gas/brake so the
> > pinout
> > > > matches that of my Thrustmaster wheel, so my pedals will be
> > interchangeable
> > > > with the current pedals. Then the clutch will also be on it's own
> axis,
> > but
> > > > it will run through the gameport as a separate controller. This way
my
> > > > pedals will work fine with my wheel as a single USB device with
> > split-axis
> > > > and no clutch. But then for games that support multiple controllers,
I
> > plug
> > > > the clutch into the gamepad and I'm good to go.

> > > > That also means that I'll have another axis and some buttons to use
on
> > the
> > > > gamepad. So I was considering maybe a nice Sequential shifter and a
> > > > Handbrake, or an H-style shifter with the extra buttons :)

> > > > Mike
> > > > http://mikebeauchamp.com

> > > Sounds like a good way to do it Mike.  My pedals are wired with the
same
> > > connector so they plug into the ForceRS making the pedals and wheel
show
> > as one
> > > controller (plus the original pedals can easily be swapped in if ever
> > needed).
> > >   The signal from the pedals are more stable than the when connected
to
> > the
> > > gameport (the wheel electronics probably do some filtering to get rid
of
> > > jitters). I've been working on adding a clutch to the gamepad in the
> > H-shifter
> > > by bringing wires out of the shifter box with a jack/plug so the
clutch
> > pedal
> > > can be disconnected.   So the wheel/throttle/brake will be on one
> > controller and
> > > H-shifter/clutch on 2nd USB controller. Only big decision is whether
to
> > update
> > > the pedals before adding the clutch. I'd be very interested in seeing
> how
> > your
> > > pedals are designed.

> > > Ken
> > > PS Found a better knob for the shifter and there's a nice shiny
aluminum
> > 4-speed
> > > coverplate plate on there now. Still needs some paint though. ;-)

> If the cost is the same as MDF (which I have laying around my house), then
> I'll definately consider it. However, I think MDF will hold up just fine,
> especially if designed to take into account the limitations of using wood.

> Afterall, this is my first set of pedals. If I make a second set and they
> turn out great, maybe then I'll consider using aluminum. I'm sort of
> considering this a cheap prototype that I'm hoping to be able to use for
> quite a long time :)

> Mike
> http://mikebeauchamp.com

> > FYI - The cost of aluminium isn't that much more and it can be easily
> worked
> > with most standard tools.
> > You can easily cut aluminium with a jig saw and even on a saw table
using
> a
> > carbide blade.

> > > If I make the pedals, I'll definately draw out the plans. Since I plan
> on
> > > making them pretty budget oriented, but still pretty good. I have a
> > feeling
> > > that a lot of DIY type LFS players would be interested, especially
with
> > > clutch support and such coming out soon.

> > > Anyways, there's going to be two sides of MDF and a bottom with a
piece
> of
> > > threaded rod going straight from one end to the other maybe a foot
high.
> > > Then the pedals hinge off of that, with the part going to the pedal
> > straight
> > > down, and another part going straight back. That's where bungee cords
> will
> > > attach to that and the base. So when the pedal is pushed forward, it
> > raises
> > > up and stretches the bungee's. Kind of hard to describe. The pot will
be
> > > mounted on the arm that the pedal is attached to and be geared (or
> > pulleyed)
> > > up against the threaded rod with a ratio so it uses almost all the
pot's
> > > rotation. There's also stuff like smaller threaded rods for each pedal
> > that
> > > limit it's travel, so each will be adjustable.  Each pedal assembly is
> > going
> > > to be exactly the same, so construction will be easy.

> > > Most things are going to be made out of MDF, which will hold up quite
> > nicely
> > > and be a lot cheaper and more accessable than some of these awesome
> > machined
> > > aluminum jobs I've seen around here :)

> > > Mike
> > > http://mikebeauchamp.com

> > > > > Hey all,
> > > > <snip>

> > > > > I was also thinking about wiring up the pots on the gas/brake so
the
> > > pinout
> > > > > matches that of my Thrustmaster wheel, so my pedals will be
> > > interchangeable
> > > > > with the current pedals. Then the clutch will also be on it's own
> > axis,
> > > but
> > > > > it will run through the gameport as a separate controller. This
way
> my
> > > > > pedals will work fine with my wheel as a single USB device with
> > > split-axis
> > > > > and no clutch. But then for games that support multiple
controllers,
> I
> > > plug
> > > > > the clutch into the gamepad and I'm good to go.

> > > > > That also means that I'll have another axis and some buttons to
use
> on
> > > the
> > > > > gamepad. So I was considering maybe a nice Sequential shifter and
a
> > > > > Handbrake, or an H-style shifter with the extra buttons :)

> > > > > Mike
> > > > > http://mikebeauchamp.com

> > > > Sounds like a good way to do it Mike.  My pedals are wired with the
> same
> > > > connector so they plug into the ForceRS making the pedals and wheel
> show
> > > as one
> > > > controller (plus the original pedals can easily be swapped in if
ever
> > > needed).
> > > >   The signal from the pedals are more stable than the when connected
> to
> > > the
> > > > gameport (the wheel electronics probably do some filtering to get
rid
> of
> > > > jitters). I've been working on adding a clutch to the gamepad in the
> > > H-shifter
> > > > by bringing wires out of the shifter box with a jack/plug so the
> clutch
> > > pedal
> > > > can be disconnected.   So the wheel/throttle/brake will be on one
> > > controller and
> > > > H-shifter/clutch on 2nd USB controller. Only big decision is whether
> to
> > > update
> > > > the pedals before adding the clutch. I'd be very interested in
seeing
> > how
> > > your
> > > > pedals are designed.

> > > > Ken
> > > > PS Found a better knob for the shifter and there's a nice shiny
> aluminum
> > > 4-speed
> > > > coverplate plate on there now. Still needs some paint though. ;-)

> I"m talking about the PIVOT point.. either being above the pedal, like on
a
> typical street car, or below the pedal, like in almost all retail
> pedal/wheel combinations.

> Sorry about the confusion, But I 'm not talking about where the pedal
itself
> his hinged on the arm. I'm talking about where the arm itself pivots from.

> Mike
> http://mikebeauchamp.com

> > I think it's more an issue of where the pedal pivots than where it is
> > hinged.
> > The Momo pedals for example are hinged at the bottom, however they pivot
> in
> > the center of the pad.  The actual hinge point is even back under the
> pedal
> > where your heel is.
> > What you many want to end up with is a pedal that you push forward in
some
> > manner, not so much one that has a great deal of pivot about any one
> point.

> > I guess I'm using the terms differently, I didn't mean to do that.

> > I"m talking about the PIVOT point.. either being above the pedal, like
on
> a
> > typical street car, or below the pedal, like in almost all retail
> > pedal/wheel combinations.

> > Sorry about the confusion, But I 'm not talking about where the pedal
> itself
> > his hinged on the arm. I'm talking about where the arm itself pivots
from.

> > Mike
> > http://www.racesimcentral.net/

> > > I think it's more an issue of where the pedal pivots than where it is
> > > hinged.
> > > The Momo pedals for example are hinged at the bottom, however they
pivot
> > in
> > > the center of the pad.  The actual hinge point is even back under the
> > pedal
> > > where your heel is.
> > > What you many want to end up with is a pedal that you push forward in
> some
> > > manner, not so much one that has a great deal of pivot about any one
> > point.

> Mike
> http://www.racesimcentral.net/

> > That's what I figured you meant.  Yes it's the pivot point that matters
> for
> > sure not the actual hinge point.
> > In a street car for example they all hinge from the top but since most
> have
> > long arms most of the motion is relatively straight ahead and you don't
> > notice much other movement.  The gas pedal on most cars also typically
> > pivots on the pad as well so the feeling is more of pushing down than
just
> > ahead.
> > Another important thing to keep in mind is your seating position in
> relation
> > to the pedals.  I use my pedals on a raised base so it is more in a
> typical
> > driving position with my racing seat as it would be in a car.  Most mass
> > produced sim pedals are design to work from a desk seating position flat
> on
> > the floor which is not ideal for racing.

> > > I guess I'm using the terms differently, I didn't mean to do that.

> > > I"m talking about the PIVOT point.. either being above the pedal, like
> on
> > a
> > > typical street car, or below the pedal, like in almost all retail
> > > pedal/wheel combinations.

> > > Sorry about the confusion, But I 'm not talking about where the pedal
> > itself
> > > his hinged on the arm. I'm talking about where the arm itself pivots
> from.

> > > Mike
> > > http://www.racesimcentral.net/

> > > > I think it's more an issue of where the pedal pivots than where it
is
> > > > hinged.
> > > > The Momo pedals for example are hinged at the bottom, however they
> pivot
> > > in
> > > > the center of the pad.  The actual hinge point is even back under
the
> > > pedal
> > > > where your heel is.
> > > > What you many want to end up with is a pedal that you push forward
in
> > some
> > > > manner, not so much one that has a great deal of pivot about any one
> > > point.

> > FYI - I am also in the planning stages of developing a new website/forum
> all
> > on racing sim hardware - from complete do it yourself links to
production
> > unit mods and full production units.  Trying to make a resource that
> focuses
> > just on the hardware/controller end of sim racing.

> That is a very good idea. It's very hard to find certain information about
> controller hardware, and it would be great to have information and
resources
> gathered in one place. When do you intend to launch this site?

> Jone
> http://tytlandsvik.no