rec.autos.simulators

Modifying Pedals - need help

GTX_SlotCa

Modifying Pedals - need help

by GTX_SlotCa » Wed, 15 Dec 1999 04:00:00

100k ohms usually (100,000 ohms), but some are 50k and others 220k. But
usually 100k. No Radio Shack stores in Sydney? I don't have a wiring diagram
in front of me, do you need all 3 pins?

Slot

Pipe

Modifying Pedals - need help

by Pipe » Thu, 16 Dec 1999 04:00:00

Some time ago I bought a wheel / pedal combo from an Australian firm
called the Advantage 1, (A1). Recently I purchased the Logitech FF and
share the views of many that the pedals could be improved. The A1 as
it happens has superb pedals, so I've decided to customise them to fit
in with my Wingman.
My problem is getting the correct potentiometers here in Sydney.
I could use the ones fitted to the Wingman however some mods would be
needed to make them fit in the AI pedal assembly so I think I'll put
new ones in.
The ones in the A1 although of excellent quality are not able to be
configured to support split axis, 2 connection points only.

Can anyone advise the specs of correct potentiometers.
From what I've seen you need 100 ohms (I think) then there is some
watt rating and a volt rating. Afraid the markings on the ones I have
give no glue at all. All the ones I've seen have different specs so
I'm a bit confounded.

TIA
Piper

Pipe

Modifying Pedals - need help

by Pipe » Thu, 16 Dec 1999 04:00:00



I found a site that mentions 100 kohms. I've seen these in a local
electronic store., however they mention things like V250 W??? etc. I
have no idea what this means. If I just had to pick 100 kohms it would
be a damm sight easier :)

Known as Tandy in this country I believe. The local store does not
stock these items. Perhaps a larger store in town might have them. Is
there a specific part number you know of?

I'm assuming to take advantage of split axis it is necessary to wire
up all 3 pins in the same way they are currently wired in the Wingman.
Maybe wrong?.
Tks
Piper

R McAuliff

Modifying Pedals - need help

by R McAuliff » Thu, 16 Dec 1999 04:00:00

It's not necessary to have three lugs on the pots to run dual axis, but
it may simply be the way that Logitech decided to connect it up. The
sites to check out for all this are:
http://www.racesimcentral.net/~lw4750/
http://www.racesimcentral.net/~heinanen/wheel.html
http://www.racesimcentral.net/

I'd suggest sticking with the original A1 pots, following the diagrams
on the web. Only problem is knowing how Logitech have hooked them up.

Other alternative (probably better) is to get a multimeter, and measure
the resistance of the Logitech pots, and get the same. If it aint the
same, you'd probably have probs with drivers, etc.

I'd suggest*** Smith or some other electronics shop. Tandy don't have
enough range of stock.

Check out the diagrams from above sites.

Best of luck. My pedals (Saitek R4) were pretty bad, bud it was mainly
the lack of travel. Chopped in with a hacksaw, no more troubles.
Doubled the travel, the diiference was incredible.

R Mc

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dero

Modifying Pedals - need help

by dero » Thu, 16 Dec 1999 04:00:00

100K potentiometer,  linear taper,  Radio Shack catalog # 271-092 .
Still, I don't think you need all 3 posts on the pots, just the center and
left (for example). So, on a standard game port, the center post on both gas
and brake go to pin 9 of the port. The left post of the gas goes to pin 11
and the left post of the brake to pin 6. I've heard that some systems won't
recognize the pedals with adding a pot for clutch support (doesn't have to
be used, just in there) with the center post of the clutch pot to pin 15 and
the left post to pin 13. For single axis, left  post of brake pot to pin 6,
center post of brake pot to left post of gas pot, center post of gas pot to
pin 9. Of course, it you do not have the gas pot mirroring the brake pot
(facing each other but rotating forward) you would use the right post
instead of the left, etc. The nice thing about this is that you can later
switch the pots around and use the 'other side' of the sweep, getting longer
life out of them. Shadio Rack pots are cheap ($1.49 in the US) but I think
they still hold up reasonably well. I managed a RS store in the early 70s.
A simple DPDT switch can be used to switch between dual and single axis. The
easiest conversion for you would be to take the wiring harness out of the
Logitech and put it into the Advantage, then you'll have access to the right
pins.

If I made a mistake here, someone correct  me (LOL I'm sure you will). I'm
going by memory.

Slot

Jaz

Modifying Pedals - need help

by Jaz » Thu, 16 Dec 1999 04:00:00

I am just curious, why go through all the trouble of modifing the pots.
Couldn't you just use the USB port for the LWFF wheel and keep your
Advantage1 pedals on the game port and re-configure the game port ID in
the Control Panel? Like Alison and other have done with their
Wheel/Pedal combos.

Jaz

Sent via Deja.com http://www.deja.com/
Before you buy.

Mark

Modifying Pedals - need help

by Mark » Thu, 16 Dec 1999 04:00:00

You don't need 3 lugs to wire a dual-axis pedal system.  Take a look at my
site for wiring details etc..

http://www.gunpowder.freeserve.co.uk/wheels

Cheers...Mark


Chris Squie

Modifying Pedals - need help

by Chris Squie » Fri, 17 Dec 1999 04:00:00

My friend moved the entire LWFF pedal wiring into his old TM Pro pedals.  He
had to rearrange some of the wires because one of the pots rotates the
opposite direction when in the TM.

It worked fine except that the whole pedal travel doesn't register.  The
values go from 1 to 655 in about 3/4 of the pedal travel.  It is an
improvement but still not the best.

I will try to figure out if there is a way to use different pots to gain the
full travel.

Chris

BTW - The logitech pedals are wired to all three connections on the pots.


Pipe

Modifying Pedals - need help

by Pipe » Sat, 18 Dec 1999 04:00:00


>You don't need 3 lugs to wire a dual-axis pedal system.  Take a look at my
>site for wiring details etc..

>http://www.gunpowder.freeserve.co.uk/wheels

>Cheers...Mark

Excellent site Mark, has cleared up most of my questions except,
nowhere have I found reference to the type of pots required other than
100k ohms. Is there a voltage or wattage requirement?. All the pots
I've seen that are 100k ohms also have these figures and I'm unsure
which one to pick.

I see now I can get by with using pots with 2 lugs to get dual access.
Unfortunately I feel that the Wingman drivers wont be happy as they
switch from single to dual through software hence the use of all 3
lugs.

see http://members.xoom.com/_XOOM/simracingmag/eric6.html

Tks
Piper

Pipe

Modifying Pedals - need help

by Pipe » Sat, 18 Dec 1999 04:00:00

On Wed, 15 Dec 1999 04:02:38 -0800, R McAuliffe


>It's not necessary to have three lugs on the pots to run dual axis, but
>it may simply be the way that Logitech decided to connect it up. The
>sites to check out for all this are:
>http://www.racesimcentral.net/~lw4750/
>http://www.racesimcentral.net/~heinanen/wheel.html
>http://www.racesimcentral.net/

Tks, very useful, I found this site extremely helpful also,
http://www.racesimcentral.net/

I'll get new pots I think. The driver issue does concern me.
Might get a multimeter for Xmas, I can see it being of use.

Your right there, I've tried*** Smith they have the pots however
they have other markings such as watts and volts, which ones?.

Tks
Piper

Pipe

Modifying Pedals - need help

by Pipe » Sat, 18 Dec 1999 04:00:00


>I am just curious, why go through all the trouble of modifing the pots.
>Couldn't you just use the USB port for the LWFF wheel and keep your
>Advantage1 pedals on the game port and re-configure the game port ID in
>the Control Panel? Like Alison and other have done with their
>Wheel/Pedal combos.

>Jaz

I did consider this as I do have a set of CH Pro Pedals. I guess that
with these the Wingman pedals and the A1 pedals it was a bit much.
Besides I find it an interesting project that I'm sure will result in
enhanced game play not to mention being easier to vacuum under
my desk :).

Cheers
Piper


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