>>Hmmm, well, now me too. I just re-read that and I think I'm the one
>>that's got it backwards. I can't see how that would be physically
>>correct... I'll have to try it. In fact, I've never heard of it...
>>ain't ignorance bliss (or not). If indeed it's true, an
>>overcorrection/mistiming of the anchoring maneuvre would have serious
>>conqsequence I would think. Food for thought [sheepish grin].
>Visualize for a moment each tire working in a corner. Tires generate
>their grip via hysterisis of the *** molecules when the contact
>patch distorts (to a point) when the tire is scrubbing across the
>pavement at a slight angle (the slip angle).
>A neutral drift occurs when the slip angles of all four tires sustain
>a relatively constant ratio of slip angles between one another.
>(from motoring sedately through a corner with no fanfare to drifting
>gracefully in an arc wider than the corner's radius until you come to
>rest against the Armco.)
>If the slip angles of the front wheels increase faster than the rear
>wheels the vehicle experiences understeer, or "push".
>If the slip angles of the rear wheels increase faster than the front
>wheels the vehicle experiences oversteer, or is "loose".
>If the car is understeering, you might attempt to neutralize this by
>popping the throttle to take away some of the available traction for
>cornering so that the slip angle of the rear tires increases, thereby
>balancing the slip angles fore and aft.
>If the car is oversteering, you might feed in some opposite lock to
>reduce the cornering load on the rear tires to match the available
>grip by widening the line a bit.
>If the oversteer is too great (the difference in fore/aft slip angles
>is increasing too rapidly) and the car cannot be balanced by reducing
>the cornering load on the rear tires or otherwise increasing their
>grip, then you can bring the fore/aft slip angles back into balance by
>radically increasing the slip angle of the front tires to the point
>that they have the same deficit of grip as the fronts, thereby
>arresting the yaw that is occurring. (the developing spin)
>The other way to arrest too high a yaw rate is to just bury the brake
>pedal and lock both ends so that they have the same traction
>available.
>This has to be done early enough in the developing spin that the yaw
>rate has not escalated to a level that the inertia of the mass of the
>vehicle will continue the yaw so far that you either come to a stop
>facing completely the wrong way or the car continues to rotate a
>couple times until all of the stored energy of the yaw has been
>dissappated.
>That's the rub as we all tend to admit defeat too late when we lose
>it, thinking "I can save it!" and flailing away at the controls past
>the point of a graceful resolution. As the old song goes, "You've got
>to know when to hold 'em and know when to fold 'em." <g>
>Regards,
>Brett C. Cammack
>That's Racing! Motorsports
>Pompano Beach, FL
So what you're saying is, and I hope I'm correct, that if the back end
starts to slide more than the front and is not remediable by more
opposite lock because the back end is sliding too much and the front end
is still gripping too much because of the opposite lock, then
deliberately cause the front end to slide more as well by turning into
the spin. This will allow the front end to catch up with the back end
in the sliding stakes and you will drift sideways instead of the back
end doing all the sliding and causing a spin. Am I correct? :)
I know its not the correct technical vernacular, but hopefully that's it
in a nutshell. :)
--
Peter Ives - (AKA Ivington)
No person's opinions can be said to be
more correct than another's, because each is
the sole judge of his or her own experience.