rec.autos.simulators

Hi all,
Sorry for not being able to offer a solution for that yet.
The problem is already boilt down to being triggered by overheating of the
motor/board. Taking off the cover is not an option, since the unit looses its
stability. To install a fan would cure the prob, but is for sure beyond the
capability of the common user. So far the only way to avoid the problem is to
crank down the forces.

So far the compilation of the r.a.s. know-how.

I want to find out, which wheels are affected, since I assume that only a
certain batch got this problem.
So if you encounter the a.m. problem, please post here:
Whel from Taiwan/China
gray or red box?
serial no
batch no.
(these numbers under the wheel unit. Cannot check the proper decription right
now, since I'm not at home)

Cya

JensSchumi

---------------------------------------------
LWFF Ball Bearing conversion at:
http://www.racesimcentral.net/

GPLRank: -13
Monsters of GPL: sub 200

Not exactly an answer, but I am pretty convinced that the spiking I get
in GPL and N4 with my LWFFGP is heat related.  If I play GPL when I
first turn on my computer I can play relatively spike free for 20
minutes or so.  After that, or if I play GPL after playing some other
game first, I get spikes.  I know you weren't asking about the GP, but I
thought I would throw that in FWIW.

  and what setting are you using in your LWFF software?
dave henrie

Default Windows settings are 100% for spring and damper forces, Profiler
settings are 70% for overall effects strength, and GPL settings are
force_feedback_damping = 40, force_feedback_latency = 0.100, and
max_steering_torque = 225.  I have played around with this a lot, and
found that I had to have 100 msec latency or the forces just did not
keep up with the vehicle when the rear end got loose, and that with that
much latency correction the only way to keep the wheel from constantly
chattering was to reduce the overall force level.  Admittedly these
settings are probably aggravating the spiking some, but I haven't found
any combination of settings that totally gets rid of the spikes (other
than "off"), so I went for settings that gave good driveability instead.
There have been several threads on this problem already, with most
people telling me it's a bad pot, but that doesn't explain why I can
play NFSPU all day at equivalent force levels with no spiking.  My gut
feel after researching this as much as I could is that since Papy is
trying to directly control motor forces rather than using the spring and
damper model, they are overworking the motor, causing excessive heat
build-up.  That at least would go a long way towards explaining the
behavior that Jens is talking about.  It doesn't really explain what are
clearly spikes in the steering channel, unless thermal expansion is
causing the wiper or the connections on the pot to intermittently lose
contact.  I really need to open it up and have a look at it, I just
never seem to have the time.